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9

Put the table/chair on a very flat and very horizontal surface. Ensure and double check with a levelgauge. shim the table/chair so that the top surface of the table/chair is level using the level gauge Take a pencil and tape it on a small block that is about the height you want the legs to shorten. Ensure that the block has parallel bottom and top planes. ...


7

An easier method to using dividers is to get a piece of string, wrap it around the circumference of the table surface, and mark the and where the string meets itself. Measure the length, divide by 3, then mark off the thirds on the string. Put the string back on and use the third marks to find the leg positions. It's not as exacting as @woodchips method but ...


7

Looks to me like you have a GALANT leg. From IKEA's website The legs shall be fitted on to the frame before the table top is put in place. If you only have the table and legs, you may not have everything you need. Based on instructions found at the customer service site linked to by alt, you need to put the legs onto the frame bar piece, then put the ...


6

Your task is to find the studs.. Electronic versions of stud finders abound, plaster is difficult for most of them. I have a 1/2 dozen of them.. I keep hoping. The problem with plaster is the lath used to support it. The lath can be a variety of materials: wood strips, metal mesh and even pasterboard. All of these materials are attached to the studs ...


5

First, figure out how much you want to take off. Let's say it's 3". I can think of a couple ways to do this. Both ways require a perfectly flat floor - so you should actually double-check that with a long level first, to be sure there isn't any major sagging or something. One way is to use a level and measuring tape, and place a mark exactly 3" up, plumb ...


5

User is right saying you should cut the rough shape with a band saw. If you don't have one, you can use a jig saw but use the most rigid blade that will follow the form. The next step will be to use a table mounted rotary sander/ drum sander to work the piece to the scribed line. It will be next to impossible to make a well shaped piece without this step. ...


5

Per the question, I used Minwax until it faded, but it was still quite obvious and visible (close to the last pic in the question post). Then, taking a page from the "mayo and ashes" tip, I mixed 1-part mayonnaise (Hellman's) to 1-part baking soda (not baking powder; I used Arm & Hammer brand) as a cigarette ashes replacement. I rubbed the mixture ...


4

Put chairs next to it! Honestly it will rot. However most of the rot will either come from bugs or water sitting on it. If you can spray it for termites/bugs and sit something decorative on top of it, it will last longer. Maybe your "tree table" could be your "table leg" for another form of table top. A big circle picnic table top (or whole thing) might ...


4

It will rot. Eventually. However, there's no reason why you can't enjoy it as a table for many years. I'd smooth off the surface after it dries a bit and seal it with a deck sealer. This will help preserve the top. But it will continue to rot from below, and eventually you'll have to remove it. How long from now "eventually" actually is is dependent ...


3

There is a way to create such a composite timber. Actually, all other things being equal (the species, cut and quality of the wood), a built up sandwich is actually stronger than a solid piece of wood. This is done by laminating the three boards together. A generous layer of wood glue, such as Titebond II, is spread over one face of one of the boards. The ...


3

Short answer, vertical and strong. I have an old Saginaw Expand-o-Matic that opens from 24" to 90" and is designed to only use the end legs, no middle support. Not sure where you could find this hardware today though. You want the sliders to be vertical because the majority of the stress will be vertical stress of the table and contents weight. It also ...


3

42 inch Closed ... For up to 135" of leaves ..." http://www.moinhardware.com/page15/page15.html ... OR ... check out the table demo at 3:22 into this video: http://vimeo.com/55389782 also here: http://www.resourcefurniture.com/space-savers/space-saving-tables/goliath "...extends from 17” to 115” utilizing a unique aluminum telescoping mechanism."


3

Use a bandsaw to get the rough shape (jigsaw blades tend to deflect when cutting thick stock). In order to keep the leg strong, make sure that you have at least a small section of wood that runs undisturbed from the floor to the table top. I have a very old buffet that was made with curved legs, and it has a weak spot in the leg that tends to shear off and ...


3

I believe a saw, ruler and some sandpaper is all you need. No reason to make this more complicated than it needs to be.


2

Depends on what the table is used for. Given the description of wear, let's assume it's a college project work table, that needs to handle anything from homework writing, gaming, to x-acto knife cutting, to light woodworking, painting, etc. I would suggest hardboard (aka Masonite). It ain't fancy, but it's cheap, widely available in 4 ft x 8 ft sheets (so ...


2

You'll be leaning over trying to eat off of it since your legs have nowhere to go. You could always carve the sides or add a top if you are determined to make a table. However, I would do something else like use it for a planter. I saw a large diameter stump the other day with beautiful plants growing out the top, it looked really neat. Besides, it is ...


2

A stripper gel is worth a shot. Never tried myself. I'd definitely use a heavy duty respirator with that stuff. A big no way on the pressure washer ;). You might also try contoured sanding pads. I use these all the time. Sanding just sucks and takes devotion.. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005237/10568/large-contour-sanding-pads-6-piece.aspx ...


2

J-B ClearWeld Quick Setting variety says it cures clear and sticks to metal and glass. I have never used this particular J-B product but I have had good results with other products of their line of epoxy.


2

The plies (layers) in plywood are run in alternating directions, so approximately half of the layers visible on any edge will be end grain and half will be the long grain. End grain usually absorbs more finish which makes it look darker. If you want to minimize the difference between the plies you could seal the edges of the plywood with shellac before you ...


2

Not quite what you're looking for, but one option would be to cut the bevels off one end of each table, and join them together with pins, mending braces and glue. You'd need to really carefully plane the cut edges down to get a nice join. Then you could just continue to use the leafs as designed. The only drawback is that you'd have a 120" long table in ...


2

Using two legs at a "T" will result in a table that is very prone to tipping. In the diagram below, the sum of the moments (torque) about the R1-R2 axis must be zero for the table to remain in equilibrium. Just before the table tips, all the reaction force from the legs against the floor will be concentrated at R1 and R2. If the weight of the table at the ...


2

I like the enthusiasm, that's great. A couple suggestions: 1. Start off with a solid design, including what sort of materials might work. Let the wood material options drive some of the design which would help to save costs. Explore the wood section at the depot and see what is offered. Wood can get expensive. So let the options of wood drive the design. ...


2

Well if drilling is not an option than that eliminates castors, which would be the logical choice. If you have hard surface flooring you could apply furniture pads (high density felt) to the feet and just slide it around.


2

You can always use a masonry grinding wheel and a level, but be warned, there will be a LOT of dust! You'll want to seal off the room from the rest of the house, open the windows, put fans in the windows, wear goggles and a respirator. They sell shrouds that you can hook up a shop vac to the grinder to get a good bit of the dust, but it's still bad. And at ...


2

The classic way to get a great finish on a concrete tabletop with minimal tooling is to pour it (upside down) on a glass sheet. If your table is smaller than a patio door, you can generally find a free patio door that someone has removed if you look for a while on craigslist or other classified ad sources, or check at the local recycling center. The main ...


2

I think your plan is doable with a little tweaking. Here's a list of some things to watch out for. Before assembly you'll need to thoroughly clean the old glue off the surfaces of the joint paying particular attention to the face grain areas (end grain offers little strength to a joint). You don't need to get down to bare wood but all of the crusty bits ...


1

Going from those pictures, it kind of looks like you drive the screws through the holes in the table surface into the legs. :)


1

you can build the table with two legs on two sides, just like the coffee table in the picture. This can keep the stability.


1

So you are (if I get your idea correctly) looking at two large-diameter log sections, large enough that two of them would serve as all the legs needed for your table? Could be a nice look. If you get lucky, you might find a hollow beech. Pine, less likely in usable form - if it's hollow it's usually also rotten outside that. Assuming you don't get lucky: ...



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