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1

Have you verified that the hot is actually hot? Not to insult, but verify that the hot and neutral are identified and connected correctly. Use meter to go from hot to ground and verify voltage and neutral to ground to verify no voltage.


2

The switched circuit, and the USB outlet, hook up in parallel. REVISED DIAGRAM, after figuring out that the mention of three-way switch was a red herring: FROM POWER SOURCE: SWITCH TO CONTROLLED LOAD HOT __________________./ .__________________________________ Switched Hot | | ...


9

You've probably connected one of the 2 power wires to the incorrect traveler terminal on the switch. This switch can be used as both a standard two-way switch as well as a three-way switch. (A three-way switch is used when there are 2 switches controlling the same device.) In standard two-way arrangement, one of the power wires should be attached to the ...


3

They DO pass current through the switch and light at all times - just a few mA. The indicator is wired in parallel to the switch contacts. For most types of bulbs its not enough for the light to turn on. However with modern LED light bulbs these types of switches (as well as dimmers, and home automation switches) that dont use the neutral can cause the ...


0

From what I've seen, they pass a small current through the switch (and light), and that current is sufficient to power the illuminated switch light.


0

I believe some of these have a neon bulb in parallel with the switch. This means they draw a small amount of current through any light-bulb the switch controls - however this is too small a current to produce any light in the light-bulb. A textured polycarbonate moulding designed to allow the glow of the two integral neons to be seen at almost any ...


0

If you can add a wire then you can connect the final switched live back to the first switch for a total of 3 travelers, then you can connect the 3-ways like so: (source wikipedia) If terminal A is hot then the lamp is on. And on the other side terminal B is always hot and ready to power an indicator light.


0

Using a Z-Wave, Insteon or similar type of "smart" switch would be the simplest way, as just requires replacing the two existing switches. Expect $50-70 per switch. The is the closet thing I'm aware of that's an off-the-shelf solution to your problem. You could also run a new wire between the two switches, to provide a switched return line that could ...


1

Device 6.66 x 3.30 cm Hole in trim plate 6.68 x 3.32 cm 2 mm ( 0.20 cm) radius on the corners.


0

Wow, after just a little more googling i found this link which I hope does not break which lists the dimensions as 1.29 inches wide x 0.22 inches thick x 2.61 inches tall without mounting tabs and 3.81 inches tall with tabs.


1

Look at the other switch; there should be 1 coming in; a black live, and 2 travelers black and red or black and labeled black coming out. The neutral will just be pigtailed. If there is just a single switched live going out then you will need to run an extra wire to the other switch. To make a single switch into 2 you need an extra traveler (switched live) ...


1

If you want a single control to do this, look at multi-position rotary or slide switches. It's fairly common to have a switch that connects a common to two outputs (let's call them A and B) and gives you the choices off, A only, A and B, or B only. Variants which drop one of those options are also readily available. Switches of this sort are often seen in ...


0

Not only that, but a 5% drop in voltage at any point from the panel is "recommended" as the maximum voltage drop. When I had my previous house built in 1996, the apprentice ran so much wire up and down the walls, that i hat a 15% drop in my bedroom. I threatened to call the state wiring inspector if it wasn't fixed. It was. Push in contacts can also lead to ...


0

1 white which is hot, and 2 greys which are hot...the switch is on 2 seperate breakers. This means that: new switch it only has 1 common hook up, then 3 other connectors on the otherside. The new switch will NOT work here. You cannot feed from "2 separate breakers" to "1 common hookup" - you need a different switch that more closely matches the ...


0

You have a pilot light switch. Some are on when the circuit is on, others are on when the circuit is off and some can be set either way. It sounds like what you want is an illuminated switch, one that guides you to the switch in the dark so you can turn it on. While some pilot light switches can do that (and yours might), the simple illuminated switches ...


2

"Ultimately, my question is, shouldn't all switches and outlets have a dedicated line back to the breaker box?" By modern wiring code, yes, there should be a neutral in the switch box. In older houses, that was not always the case; sometimes only the hot ran through the switchbox (especially when it was wired as a "switch loop").


2

If the switch has screw terminals as opposed to wire leads you DO have to pig-tail a piece of wire to the splice and then connect that tail to the switch. DO NOT place more than one wire under a binding screw terminal, unless of course it is designed for it. Even in that case it would only be designed for up to two wires. Do you have a model number for this ...


0

The biggest problem in services is the client. Imagine you've wired whole house with push-ins but then the client decides he/she wants the light switch on the other side of the door, or the sockets in different color. With screw connections, you can disassemble and reassemble the installation. Without screws - you're screwed.


19

The sockets I've been using for the last 15 years have standard screw connection, holes behind that location where the screw pulls a plate against straight stripped wires and the push-in holes. After you've encountered a few burnt sockets from using the push-in connection in the first couple outlets in a daisy chain, you start to realize something. The ...


5

It's not that we are afraid of anything. It's that it makes poor business sense to use such a failure prone connection. Thing is, they are just unreliable. It's not that they are unsafe.


2

Yes, unreliable devices are allowed by electrical codes. Further than that, unreliable devices are sometimes MANDATED by the electrical codes: AFCI circuit breakers, for instance. The fact that the manufacturers of these devices have a great deal of influence in the bodies that create the codes may explain this situation.


2

You could leave the switch as-is but then install one of various types of switch guards to prevent accidental switch setting changes. Here are a few examples...


1

1) Not necessarily; depends on local codes. NYC code circa 2008 required it, and as a result I have one. 2c) 'It is fine as it is'. You can put some tape over the switch to discourage people from whacking it in the dark if you need to, and you can change the faceplate to indicate that it is now a 'Gas Burner Emergency Shutdown Switch'



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