New answers tagged switch
Occupancy sensors, timers, dimmers, and other "smart" switches often are required to be independently powered. If you look at this diagram from the devices documentation (PDF), you'll see that there are three ways this requirement is achieved. Neutral Wire Required The first method, is to simply require a neural wire. In this configuration, the ...
I think you probably mean the switch didn't have a neutral (which is connected to ground but not the same thing as "ground"). Standard light switches are either open or closed, and so they only have the incoming hot wire and the outgoing hot wire that are either connected ("on") or disconnected ("off"). If you have a switch with additional features that ...
Looking at the instructions for this unit I see no reason it cannot be used in a replacement application where no ground is present.
As you probably know, standard three-way switches have two "traveler" wires running between them. The problem you describe can indicate that one of the travelers has become disconnected. The result is equivalent to two standard switches in series. I expect that when you check the switches, you'll find a wire has come off its screw or out of the backstab.
I had a similar problem on a circuit with two switches for one light. It turned out to be that one switch only completed the circuit in one position, as though it were a simple on/off switch. Replacing the defective switch solved the problem.
You have a simple mis-wire somewhere. As previously stated, you need to open both switches and see how everything is wired. Get a few good diagrams of common 3-way wiring patterns and see if one is like the way yours are wired. A Google search will bring up many. The position of the switches does NOT matter at all. What matters is identifying the feed wire, ...
Assuming the light itself isn't bad, then the combination of a dim light and the dishwasher making it go out sounds like a break in a wire or a corroded connection. A break or corrosion can allow enough current to pass to light the bulb dimly, but when a higher current is called for the resistance of the break or corrosion goes up, causing an apparent total ...
A configuration with GFCI protected outlets and switched lights but and unswitched outlets is a completely ordinary and unremarkable configuration.
Well...I typed that too fast, I guess. I just found the answer! Sure enough, this is not actually designed to handle fan loads. UGH. Just blew $40 on two of these. Apparently there's some small print. To quote a review on Home Depot's web site: Works great for lights,but as I'm finding a common problem with all electric supplies you must read the fine ...
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