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3

Yes, that is precisely correct. Though I prefer red tape, but that's a preference, not a requirement to go buy a roll. Nicer (IMHO) because you can easily mark switched hots whether they be black or white.


1

An intermittent problem like that is almost always a broken switch or a loose connection. Often, you can "feel" when a switch is broken, so if it feels normal to you, then a loose connection might be the issue. Either way, you need to pull the switch out and check it out. If you are lucky and it is a loose wire, you'll just need to tighten the screw holding ...


9

It's probably just a broken switch. My guess would be that the switch contact is worn out to the point that it does not make contact, but jiggling it a bit (by turning off and on again) may solve the problem, at least for a little while. Replacing a light switch is a pretty simple matter for a DIYer. I recommend swapping it out and seeing if that solves ...


3

It sounds like the two black wire with the pigtail are the incoming hot and a branch hot to another location, such as the outlet. The other black attached to the switch is probably the switched hot that goes to the fixture being controlled. You can verify this by turning the switch to off, making sure all the wires and terminals are clear and not touching ...


0

You are correct the Black or Color wire should be the hot/power and the white is the neutral, but as long as the wire is marked with black tape is was okay. Now you stated that you turned off the switch and you still had power at the fixture, that is because whom every wired this fixture may have switched the neutral and not the hot/power, which is no longer ...


6

So, the box in the ceiling has two pair coming into it. Two black white pair. One comes from the power source. Think of that one as Line and Neutral. The other one runs to the light switch wherever that is. ( If you open the switch, you should find a black and white on the two screws. ) Therefore, the two black wires are connected and beep your ...


1

Doesn't seem that strange at all. I'm not there, and can't probe the wiring to confirm, but this is a common wiring method when power comes to the fixture outlet first. Power comes to the fixture outlet on one of the black wires, then goes to the switch on the other. Power comes back from the switch on a white wire, and goes back to the breaker on the ...


4

Pressure Switch I've never seen a "safety cut-off" on a pressure system before, but typically the switching is done by a single box (known as a "pressure switch"). Pretty much all of them (at least from the last ~20 years) look something like this: The large nut is used to control the pressure (both cut-in, and cut-out) and the small one controls the ...


-2

It could be a defective light bulb. It is very odd.


-1

If the new device requires a "neutral", and there's no "neutral" in the box. You're basically out of luck, unless you can correctly install a "neutral". Secondly, if the device cannot function as a 3-way. You can't put it into a 3-way circuit, without rewiring the circuit. It sounds like you may be trying to make dodgy wiring even dodgier. Though I'm not ...


-1

I'm just thinking out loud here. It is hard to state anything with certainty in a situation like this where there is no guarantee of what somebody else did with the wiring a long time ago...so forgive me if this suggestion isn't even worth what you paid for it. ;) From what you have said here, it sounds to me like that red wire makes its way back to the ...


-2

More than likely there is a ground wire or neutral at least "passing" threw that switch box. Probably wire nutted and tucked away in the back. I have an occupancy sensor that requires a neutral, my old house only has the ground and hit in the swotch box. I'm a licensed electrician and major in electrical engineering. Think about it. The neutrals and grounds ...


1

It sounds like you wired the switch up to create a direct short (hot to neutral). This will of course trip the breaker every time you flip the switch on. You want to switch just the hot wire, and connect the neutral through to the next box. Do you know where power enters these boxes? I see two obvious possibilities: Power at the ceiling box Do you have ...


2

You have a new-style switch loop -- the current (2014) NEC now requires switch loops to have a neutral, not just a hot and a switched. Switch the black and red wires on the light, and the white and red wires on the switch -- this means the light goes to red and white, and the switch goes to black and red, with the white wire in the switch box capped off ...


1

Assuming this is the setup you have described: You will need to pull a new 12/3 cable to your new 3-way switch. You will also have to replace your existing switch with a 3-way switch. Your wiring setup will look like this: Because your lighting circuit's power is supplied by a conductor in a 12/3 cable, the figures above were modified as follows: ...



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