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If the fan is controlled by a 3-way switch, you'll have to replace either of the switches with another 3-way switch. Unless you eliminate one of the 3-way switches, you can't install a single pole switch. If you want to install a fan speed control switch in this scenario, you'll have to find one that can be wired as a 3-way switch (not sure if it exists).


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Just the hot. Just switch the hot.


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There's a lot going on here, and I think we could spend a lot of time drawing out the threads of this design and implementation; however, to answer your specific questions: No, current will not flow back through a device from the neutral in any but the most pathological circumstances, for two reasons. First, it is incumbent upon the builder to ground all ...


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Be careful when reading residential voltage with a DVM meter. My Fluke will read 121VAC at a single pole switch with the switch On, and 50vac with it off. But the scale changes from V to mv (milivolts). The scale changes dynamically and the v in milivolts on my Fluke is very small. 50-60mv is typical voltage float on ground. I have never measured a true ...


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I cannot see it being able to be done. Theres just not enough wires. Basically whats missing is after you get your switched power to your light you need a path back to the main (source) neutral. Or any neutral really. You do have white wires in the 3 way switch boxed but they are acting as travellers and not neutrals. Sorry for your bum luck. I hate being ...


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The question is a bit long for me to follow fully but I will say that on a 120V circuit you are not aloud to switch the neutral. It is a code rule. You always switch the hot, never the neutral. I am not sure if your whole circuit is 120V but theres a part answer for you.


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Agreed that you need to verify the light is not working first by switching the light bulb with a known working light bulb. If that doesn't work is there another 3 way switch that is off now that you didn't know you had? That was switched off by somebody else since you didn't know it existed. Can this light only be turned on and off from the one location (i ...


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Orision, My take on this is that you understand what you want pretty well, and understand electricity only at a very surface level. That's not a great mix. My suggestion would be for you to do some googling on home automation products and see if you can come up with a way to set up a system that accomplishes this with off the shelf home automation products ...


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You are describing a 3-way switch, which is among the most cheap and common electrical elements you will find. You can pay up a bit for a 3-way switch with "pilot light" which will illuminate the switch when the circuit is closed (or open, depending on how wired), so that users will know whether toggling the switch will be turning the receptacle on or off. ...


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From your question it sounds like you have a series of fixtures, some between the two switches and some past one of the switches. The key to a successful 3-way switch setup is maintaining the two traveler conductors between the two switches and then choosing one of the two switches as the "in" and the other as the "out". Usually the "close" switch (the ...


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Based on the photograph, I'd say the black wires are feeding voltage from the panel (hot) and carrying the voltage onto another switch or outlet. The red wire is presumably going to the light (load). You need to connect the black wires to one screw of the new switch and the red to the other. Leave the green (ground) screw unconnected. It's generally not ...


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You've likely just swapped a couple wires, if you even have to do anything. If the fan and light are controlled by simple snap switches, then you don't really have to do anything (other than relearn which switch is which). If you have specialty fan controls and/or dimmers, you'll want to switch things around. In the ceiling box above the fan, there should ...


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If i'm understanding you correctly, you have a light that has a power source coming directly into it. From there, two wires go down to the switch (Black is power to the switch, and White is the power back up to the light.) You have some outlets that come from the light junction box and want to remove one of them. You want to add a second switch so that ...



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