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Sounds like the power is trying to find a neutral and thats the residual you are getting. Dead leg. Does your switch interrupt the common(hot) and then feed the lights. I wired lights once interrupting the neutral instead and electricity will seek out a ground/neutral (air, back feed, etc...). Should take power from source(breaker box) to a junction box, at ...


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You need a "switch dummy". Also commonly called a "switch blank", "blank insert" and "blank filler". The big box stores may not carry this item, if not, electrical supply house should have available.


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A plug in electrical tester will show voltage and let you know you have power there, but it will not show amperage. So if you have a loose wire connection or a wire break under the insulation on one of your receptacles that feed the others, you will see voltage, but if you plug a light in or something else that will draw some amperage, the voltage drops due ...


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You have a 2-way switch. One of the black wires is probably the line and the other carries power to some other device on the circuit; they are connected together by one using the backstab connector and the other the screw. The red wire is probably the load (it's also possible the red is the line and you have two loads controlled by the switch).


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If this installation has only a single switch for the light (not a 3 way or coming on automatically with the garage door opening). I think it is likely that power was fed to the light fixture first where the black incoming was nutted together with the black to the garage door opener and the black wire to the switch, the white from the power wire nutted to ...


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Possibly. They do make gadgets designed to control a ceiling fan + light separately, using wiring meant for a light only (which is your case even though it's a fan only). They include a control module which goes behind the fan shroud, and an intelligent light switch. The module doesn't care if the fan and light are separate items. They also make lights ...


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I know this is an old forum posting but thought I'd add to this topic with my experiences. I'm no expert on this but I tried putting a 3-way fan switch on an older fan kit only to hear a non comforting noise coming from the fan motor after speaking to an expert I was told that the older fan's and motors weren't designed for those type of switches and would ...


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This is not a kludge, he took 2 hots off 1 circuit. To add an outlet tie the white for the outlet to the white in the lamp box. tie the grounds (copper wires together). Now tie your black to the red. connect the black to the outlet brass colored screw, white to the silver screw and copper to green screw on the outlet.


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Open up the switch box, and have a look how it's wired. Without more information (photos, diagrams, etc.), the following information is an educated guess. One of the colored lines (red, black) is likely always hot, while the other is controlled by the switch. The white is most probably neutral, and the bare/green is almost certainly ground. If this is the ...


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Based on what you've been able to discern so far -- the black wire in cable #1 is from switch #1 and the red wire in cable #1 is from switch #2. Cable #2 goes off to the other two kitchen lights and cable #3 goes off to the pot lights. This means that for the configuration you want, connect: the black from cable #1 to the black from cable #2 and the ...


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You have confirmed my suspicion that, with the switch off, the outlet and the light are in series. That is the reason that both light dim when a 100 watt light is plugged in. The fact that the outlet shows hot/neutral reversed when the switch is off tells me exactly what the "electrician" did. The outlet must be wired as follows: the hot side of the ...


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Perhaps I could be wrong on this but when I worked as an electrician in California many years ago, the coast 3 way switching was developed for the following reason. Many homes and offices were wired using steel flex (aluminum came later). Most cities in California at that time had their own electrical code, governed to some degree by the state code and NEC. ...


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Your problem is that you have looped/paralleled the neutral (white) wire both through and around the 3-way switches, which can be interpreted as a NEC 300.3(B)/310.10(H) violation. What I would do instead is run a 14/4 between the two 3-way switches, with black as the unswitched hot and red and blue as the travelers, then run a 14/3 from the 2nd switch box ...


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Different devices have different characteristics when the timer breaks the circuit. They usually rate the contacts of the timer by resistive (tungsten) or inductive (motor) style loads. Even though the contacts are rated for 20 amps a resistive load may be more likely to pit the contacts so they derate the timer for a resistive load. Good luck! EDIT - ...


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If the breaker pops when you turn on a specific burner, even if the cartridge is not plugged in, chances are that burner control switch has gone bad. The power on those units goes through the four burner controls before going out to the cartridge sockets. I had one that if turned on to any setting, would just run the burner on high. If you can depower the ...


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I figured it out after opening it up. The old switches the previous owner installed were actually upside down and the common terminal was in the wrong spot, so when I tired them up the same way the hot was only being properly fed by one switch and when that switch was off the other switch wouldnt work. Once I figured out that that was the problem it was an ...


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Assuming your switches are similar to the Leviton 1463 (wiring diagram taken from their site): there is a resistive bridge between the two travellers that is tapped to feed one end of the pilot light, with the other end connected to the common terminal. When you put two of these in circuit and put the switches in opposite positions, the net effect is ...



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