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This looks like a 3-way slide dimmer. In the first picture it looks like there are five wires. Two black, two blue and one white(?). Is that correct? Can't tell what the white(s) is(are) connected to, if at all. Just looking at the pictures(which are leaving out some needed information) and seeing that these are 4-square boxes, the box in the second ...


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Never gonna work. Take the dimmer back and get the right thing. It won't be the first one the shop has taken back for that reason. But, know this -- a dimmer switch that works with an old-style 3-way** is a hard problem. The device that can solve it is sophisticated. Basically it has to be able to power itself off either of the two travelers, supply ...


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Interesting colors... without a multimeter (I assume that's the case), the best answer is to use the light to test the connections. When wired correctly, the light should turn on and off at each switch (a switch should not need to be in one position for the other switch to work). The green wire should be the ground and it should be attached to the outlet box ...


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With pilot switches, you can get any combination you want, simply by wiring it differently. Top: the pilot is on when the switch/light is on. Middle: The pilot is on always. Bottom: The pilot is on when the switch/light is off. However, this works by leaking power through the bulb. So it only works if the bulb is not burned out, and is able to ...


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In the 1960's/70's (in Canada at least) it was normal to run a three wire with two hot lines to save on wiring, even if you removed one of the hot lines, there was still another that was live. Have you traced back both lines to the box? A three wire with this setup will have both the red, and the black line connected to separate breakers.


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There are a few possibilities. Perhaps the hot-and-neutral pair coming up cable B are merely passing through box 2 on their way to cable E, and they don't connect with the 3-way switch at all. In that case, cable C would be a 14/3 (or 12/3) containing 2 messengers and a common, in the usual style. Perhaps you have a Carter 3-way system, which has been ...


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Not really. Your option is pretty much replace the switch with a quieter one. Switches are $2 to $5. Since SE archives questions, I'll mention that some switches are loud because they are special switches rated to switch high current - in that case, don't downgrade.


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Is it mounted on wood or plywood surface? The loud snapping sound probably due to the the vibration amplification by the surface on which the rocker switch is mounted on. The very first thing you could do is try install a layer of felt or similar soft material between the contact surfaces of the switch and the wall on which its mounted on. This should ...


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What happened is that the white from the top switch is a neutral, while the white from the bottom switch is a traveler. Hence, one of the travelers is connected directly to both the common wire and the light, and the other traveler coming from the second switch is shorted to the neutral -- which explains the weird behavior and tripped breakers. Now that ...


2

You're over-thinking this. Get a replacement plug from the hardware store. Disconnect the "downstream" lights and put the plug on to that wire. Then use an extension cord.


3

I believe that you have mixed up the light-hot and the panel-hot wires. So when you flip the first switch it supplies power to the (whole) switch. You need to move the light wire (yellow in the picture below) and put it on the brass screw corresponding to the one you thought was the light wire. The wire that you thought went to the light is the power/panel ...


2

Rejoice in the conduit. It makes modifications easy - for instance if you ever install a smart switch that needs neutral, you can just add a neutral. You only think of white and black because those are the colors in Romex. Since you're in conduit, that's not a factor. It's a mark of quality for an electrician to use a multitude of colors in an apparent ...


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First off -- the only guarantees found in North American electrical code are that neutrals are white or grey (but not all whites are neutral) and grounds are green, green/yellow striped, or bare. Things that are neither ground nor neutral can be any other color -- the reason black, red, and to a lesser extent blue are common is because those colors are what ...


3

Anyone able to point me in the right direction as to what wiring i have here? Red - permanent-live feed from lighting circuit (240V AC) Black with red sleeve - switched-live from switch (to luminaire). Green - earth to metal backbox. Yellow - earth from metal backbox to metal body of dimmer - no longer needed, remove. A typical UK light switch will ...


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Single Pole Switch Diagram Turn power off at electrical panel by turning off the breaker. Connect the two black wires as shown. Connect the ground bare wire to the green screw making a clockwise hook so the ground is nice and secure. And tighten. When you push the switch in make sure the ground is tuck back out of the way as to avoid any problems from ...


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Yes, no, and pigtail a ground from the other two. To clarify, the black wires are a hot from the panel and an outgoing hot to the light loop (which comes back as the neutral in the same cable). The switch simply breaks that loop, and you can connect a typical switch in either configuration. Older switches didn't have ground screws, but now it's standard ...



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