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2

You'll have to purchase a timer that is specifically designed to work as a 3-way switch. Or you'll have to rewire the other 3-way switch in such a way that it will no longer control anything. Since I can't see the wiring at the second switch, I'm guessing the wiring currently looks something like this... Which is sketchy, since there's no grounded ...


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I have seen the same problem with my York furnace. I squeezed in the connectors and now it is working OK.


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Based on what you've shown, you should be able to wire it up like this... However, those red Wing-NutĀ® twist-on wire connectors are only rated for a maximum of 6 #14 conductors. So you'll have to split up the neutrals in to two groups, and connect the groups with a pigtail between them.


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It's highly unlikely that the box itself is broken and causing this problem. What you should do next is remove everything from the box (label the wires first). Also remove each wire nut and put it back on, one at a time. In doing this, you may find a loose connection or wire nut. If not, then inspect each wire to make sure the plastic covering is intact. If ...


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Light 1. Yes, you will pigtail and put the 3 neutral wires together in 1 wire nut. Light 2. Correct, it will not work. You will need to add the control at the junction box with the light or receptacle. Light 3. I would put a pigtail in with the black wires, and put under the top screw. Add the pigtail and put the 3 neutrals together. The red wire to the ...


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I will join longneck, you need to give to give this one to a pro. If you do not understand about back-feeding a circuit, already, it is too easy to kill someone. I say this without exaggeration. The biggest problem with running a generator with a transfer switch is that you have to wire it into your main panel. For basic protection of life, (as well as ...


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We start by numbering the cables in your diagram from left to right: is an always-hot feed backstabbed into the single pole switch (it's always hot because it's backstabbed at the same end of the switch as the incoming hot feed). is another always-hot feed (were I to guess, this is the circuit coming in, but there's an off chance some dunderhead wired it ...


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This will work as long as you can mount the box securely, and are not violating the box's listing. As Some Guy pointed out, the whole lot of EGCs (ground wires) only counts as 1 wire for box fill purposes. And yes, an extension ring on a stud-type (old work or new work) box can work as well, if you don't mind the resulting box sticking out from the wall.


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There is no problem using the metal boxes, it is done all the time. All of the ground wires count as only 1 wire for box fill calculations I will Never be caught saying this it the best idea - 3 gang plastic 1.5" extender, UPC 018997489678 3 gang mud ring for the metal box ...


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At the risk of being a complete ass, you are likely putting way too much effort into a plan that is not likely to work. You start with, "My tenants never turn the lights off ... ." This is not an issue of electrical wiring, this is about the tenants behavior. In trying to help, my question to you is, why do you think your tenants are not going to just ...


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I would double check the 3 way /4 way switches. I put some in my home and the diagrams did not always match the posts on the switches. For eg. In your diagram both hots are on left. Some switches have both hots on top or one top left hot one bottom right hot. Different makers diferent designs. Edit: sorry ment to comments not answer.


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Masonry boxes are metal because concrete can get wet and conduct electricity. The box can be grounded to prevent this becoming a problem. Code allows you to use items that are MORE safe than is required. For instance, if code requires 14 gage wire, you're OK using 12 gage (but not 16). The same holds here. You're proposing using a more safe box than is ...


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Since your light is on a different circuit than the outlet, you'll need to run a switch loop from the light to the 2-gang box using 14/3 (yes 3) cable, with black as the hot, red as the switched hot, white as a spare neutral, and the bare or green wire as well, the ground (aka EGC) :) In the light box, you'll take the black that currently goes to the ...


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You have the right idea. The outlet itself, since you want it unswitched, is wired as normal. On the other side of the outlet, where you'd either chain to another or add something additional, is where you'd link the light in. So, the hot coming off the outlet, you'd wire up to the in on the light switch. The "out" on the switch would go to the light fixture. ...


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yes you can over ride the motion with a 3 way sw to work manual or go back in motion. you need a 14/3 and 14/2 going to motion flood hot going to direct motion and red on 14/3 going to light black going to red on motion all naturals together red on common screw of 3 way and hot on same side other screw of common and black of 3 way on other screw



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