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Typically you'd run 14/2 to the vanity, and 14/3 to the fan/light combo. In the switch box, Connect all the grounded (neutral) conductors. Connect all the grounding conductors. Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductor from the vanity to the switch. Connect one of the ungrounded (hot) conductors from the light/fan to the switch. Connect the other ...


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First thing you'll have to do is determine where the wire from the switch is going. I'm guessing that all those lights,fan, and receptacle are just daisy-chained with the switch interrupting the neutral inside a fixture box or separate junction box. (Why, why, why?) If you make the existing switch control only the ceiling fan, you'll of course, need to ...


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1st, the white wires should be completely covered with black tape. Try putting both same colors at the top and at the bottom, if you have verified all these wires are the travelers from 2, 3-way switches. In this diagram the light is off. Toggling any of the switches will turn it on. hometoys.com


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If you only have red green and white wired coming from the ceiling, that means it's only meant for one switch. The other switch may be for an outlet in the room. Sometimes an outlet is set to a switch so you can connect a lamp and control it from a wall switch; if this is the case you will not be able to control the light and fan separately except with a ...


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Remote receivers control the light and fan usually, it only gets one power source. Once installed only one switch will work. It sucks but that's how they are. You are bypassing the ability to control both functions from wall to the more "convenient" option of a remote. The switches are both use less at this point. Use the remote as the switch. My fan had ...


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You could (spend money) replace the controller and the switch. Or remove the controller and just wire everything to the fan switch (free). Either way, if the wire is in conduit and you have to pull the fan down, just run another wire.


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Any way you like. Connect your in-wall timer to a relay with a 1-pole coil that controls two poles. Replace your timer with a two-pole timer. To me, either of those are "simpler" than anything having to be done to three separate locations...but none of it is very complex. Add photosensors. Replace the lights with fixtures that have built-in sensors ...


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Are you sure the ground wire is not another hot wire (the load)? If it is a ground wire, you need to have two hots, line and load. Load goes to the COM screw (should be black), line connects on the other side, and then neutral below the line. I have it wired this way and it works exactly as you would like it to.


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one device would be to use a multimeter. They have something called a continuity tester, whereby you take the two leads. the one end gets pressed against the one end of the wire, and the other end goes to the other end. if there is a connection, then the multimeter will either show on screen of buzz. ... the real problem is to run a temp wire all the way ...


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The button fixed it!! Yay Same problem, and I can second that resolution. Took me a few weeks to google the problem, bit lazy about it. But was very annoying not having that light I can tell you. And came across this. Pushed the left button thats at the back there a few times and it came on. Been working ever since. Thanks for the leg work. :) :)


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As Speedy said, your wiring is indeed characteristic of a four-way switch. Four-way dimmers are not a COTS item; however, you can put a dimmer there with the help of a 3-position, 2-pole (DPDT) wall switch such as this Hubbell-Bryant 4825I, mounted in a dual gang box and wired as in the following diagram (travelers are black and red, grounds are green, ...



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