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Another thing that seriously needs to get corrected is the totally unacceptable workmanship of the wire attachment at the switches. The wire insulation should be right up at the screw head. The tail end of the wire should only extend out from under the screw heads by a very small amount. If this wiring was prepared by someone that you paid to do ...


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I suggest first off to take the remote control kit out of the installation to see if you can get the fan going without it. Once that is successful then re-attempt introducing the remote unit.


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Fan/light with no remote Put everything back the way it was. Connect the white from the fan/light to the white from the ceiling. Connect the green/bare from the fan/light to the green/bare from the ceiling. Connect the black and blue wires from the fan/light to the black or red wire from the ceiling that was connected to the black wire from the old ...


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Based on your descriptions (the pictures are hard to read), there should be red and black wires in the ceiling box. It sounds like you should have tapped the fan's AC IN L into the black wire for the fan's switched hot line, but you tapped into the red instead. If that is the case, just switch the fan power line over to the black. Be sure to leave the ...


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You can purchase and utilize a common DPDT type relay (Double Pole / Double Throw) to create a cross over switch. It is pretty easy to understand from the following relay diagram: You connect one circuit to the two NC (normally closed) terminals of the relay. The other circuit connects to the two COM (common) terminals. Then you add two additional wires ...


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Personally, I'd stick with a carrier-current or radio system -- TREMENDOUSLY easier to install, lower risk due to the inherent isolation, UL or equivalent certification so you aren't going to have home inspectors failing your place for code violations... and, frankly, if you are asking this question you shouldn't be designing this system.


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The reference to a switch loop in the related question describes a pair of wires that are both hot or live. The white wire is serving as a black and should have a black marking or tape on it. The switch is serving as a break in the hot line. Every operating device (like a fan or lamp) in standard wiring needs a hot line and a neutral line, and usually a ...


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The trivial way to do this is to buy an off-the-shelf power strip with a switch and 15A circuit breaker, and plug that into a 15A-or-more GFCI outlet. If you don't want to replace the existing outlet, you can do what I did: Buy a standard 15A 3-prong power cord, a GFCI, a box with an outlet faceplate, and a strain relief. Knock out an appropriate size hole ...


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After a little research I discovered that most dimmer switches are "Leading Edge" dimmer switches and that these aren't compatible with LED bulbs and will result in a flicker and reduce the lifetime of the bulbs. So what I needed was a "Trailing Edge" dimmer switch which I struggled to find in the shops but managed to order online. It was quite a lot more ...


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No, not without running new wire. The way you have it there is only one switch leg going up to the fan/light.


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That IS a 4-way switch which means you do have two other 3-ways. The wiring you have can't mean anything else. A standard 3-way dimmer cannot be placed in this location.


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Proper connection of a two-way circuit is (sorry about the ASCII sketch) sw1 sw2 load _________________ hot ____/ ______()_____ neutral _________________ / ... two single-pole, double-throw switches back to back. When both are switched one way (up in this case), one of the wires between ...


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This is perfectly normal. One of the two travelers can be hot at all times if the switches are wired correctly. Which traveler is hot depends on the orientation of the switches. That said, you shouldn't touch any wire in a circuit box when the branch is live. If you happened to have provided a better ground path, someone else very well could have been ...



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