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19

The sockets I've been using for the last 15 years have standard screw connection, holes behind that location where the screw pulls a plate against straight stripped wires and the push-in holes. After you've encountered a few burnt sockets from using the push-in connection in the first couple outlets in a daisy chain, you start to realize something. The ...


10

You've probably connected one of the 2 power wires to the incorrect traveler terminal on the switch. This switch can be used as both a standard two-way switch as well as a three-way switch. (A three-way switch is used when there are 2 switches controlling the same device.) In standard two-way arrangement, one of the power wires should be attached to the ...


8

This is perfectly normal. One of the two travelers can be hot at all times if the switches are wired correctly. Which traveler is hot depends on the orientation of the switches. That said, you shouldn't touch any wire in a circuit box when the branch is live. If you happened to have provided a better ground path, someone else very well could have been ...


5

If one switch is overriding the other in a three-way circuit, that usually means one of the switches has been hooked up incorrectly. If you get the common and one of the travellers exchanged, you will see exactly this behavior. Double-check each switch to make sure you know which contacts are the common and the two selectable terminals, and double-check ...


5

Improper Electrical Wiring constitutes a serious life safety hazard. It can be the source of structural fire and potentially fatal shocks. I am not saying that you can't splice a common electrical wall switch into an extension cord. I am saying that it is not a good general practice. Consider Instead Installing a suitable hardwired outlet and wall ...


5

Let's see if I can draw this all once again... CAVEAT: I'm an electrical engineer, not an electrician. My description of the circuits will be correct, but someone should double-check me on the color-coding conventions. The basic concept of a three-way circuit is that you have two single-pole, double-throw switches hooked up back to back: Switch 1 ...


5

It's not that we are afraid of anything. It's that it makes poor business sense to use such a failure prone connection. Thing is, they are just unreliable. It's not that they are unsafe.


4

I had the same problem, tried everything, replaced the switch and the thermopile, no avail. Then finally I removed the pilot light assembly, the top just pops off and using a straw blew a bunch of dust out of it. The result was a better flame on the thermopile which allowed the valve to open, try that.


4

Commment converted to answer. My guess is that it's an illuminated cover, which no longer works. Turn power off, disconnect the two wires to the cover, and replace with a regular cover. While you're at it, you might as well replace the switch.


4

There doesn't appear to be a grounded (neutral) conductor in the box. Looks like it's a simple switch loop, that somebody tried installing a combination receptacle on. It looks like the black wire is an ungrounded (hot) conductor, and the white wire is a switched ungrounded (hot) conductor. There's no way to add a receptacle here, unless you pull a ...


4

Typically you'd run 14/2 to the vanity, and 14/3 to the fan/light combo. In the switch box, Connect all the grounded (neutral) conductors. Connect all the grounding conductors. Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductor from the vanity to the switch. Connect one of the ungrounded (hot) conductors from the light/fan to the switch. Connect the other ...


3

You can use the switch to operate both the fan and light, if you so choose. In fact, this is a common feature in single user public restrooms. As long as the switch and wiring are rated for the amount of current, which unless you get a huge fan, it should be. If you have the ability to install a new cable (or pull an extra wire, if the wires happen to be ...


3

It's possible that the switch does power an outlet, but that the installer did not remove the fin that connects the top and bottom outlets. When the fin is removed, the top and bottom outlets are isolated from one another so that they can be independently powered. If the top and bottom outlets are wired with two wires of the same phase, you would not ...


3

If this is, in fact, a split outlet, you should be fine wire nutting the blacks and a black pigtail, the reds and a red pigtail, and you can connect the whites directly or wirenut them and a pigtail, as you prefer. You will need to break the tab connecting the receptacles on the hot side, at least (my guess is that they broke the hot tab and left the neutral ...


3

Switches normally just "make or break" the hot lead. Neutral conductors should never be connected to switches except for PIR wall switches and many wall timers. They need to have a neutral connector. So you should have: 1) constant live hot wire (normally black in USA, but you never know without testing) 2) switched hot wire that delivers switched power ...


3

The problem is, whenever you turn one set of lights on, power can go through that shared light into the other circuit. So each switch controls all lights. While it -might- be possible to make 2 light groups (1 common light) work the way you want with two 4-way switches back-wired through each other, you're asking for something even more complicated. Each ...


3

If there are studs at either end of a two gang switch box, that means they are approximately 4 inches apart. A three gang requires 6 inches. A switch box is usually about 3.5 inches high; with thickness that means turned sideways, it will fit in a dual ganged space. So you have room for 20 switches if you want: (from here)


3

They DO pass current through the switch and light at all times - just a few mA. The indicator is wired in parallel to the switch contacts. For most types of bulbs its not enough for the light to turn on. However with modern LED light bulbs these types of switches (as well as dimmers, and home automation switches) that dont use the neutral can cause the ...


3

Basically you need three 14/3 cables between the two boxes. Wire each pair as a set of 3-way switches. Here is a basic diagram. Just do this for each set of 3-ways. The only difference is that you will need to pigtail three leads onto the incoming feed wire to feed each switch in the first box, and splice all the white wires together since they are all ...


3

Turn off the breaker Remove the face plate. You should find two (usually) black wires on opposite ends of the switch. Remove the switch, and join the two black wires with a wire nut. Turn on the breaker, and test the outlet Put a blank face plate on the (now junction block) Install cabinets Cut a hole in the back of the cabinet to access the junction box. ...


3

Yes you can. You need to replace the current switch with a three way. Run the new three wire cable between the old switch box and the new switch box. The wire that carries current to the old switch is attached to the common terminal of the replacement three way. The wire that brings current to the light in the existing switch box is connected to one of ...


2

Pretty simple question that seems to have gotten out of hand. I believe the OP was trying to fix or modify a work bench like this one, pictured. These would be the correct off-the-shelf parts... pretty legit if you ask me. Good luck finding a non-Decora GFCI for it, no wonder they needed a seprate GFCI.


2

The trivial way to do this is to buy an off-the-shelf power strip with a switch and 15A circuit breaker, and plug that into a 15A-or-more GFCI outlet. If you don't want to replace the existing outlet, you can do what I did: Buy a standard 15A 3-prong power cord, a GFCI, a box with an outlet faceplate, and a strain relief. Knock out an appropriate size hole ...


2

Occupancy sensors, timers, dimmers, and other "smart" switches often are required to be independently powered. If you look at this diagram from the devices documentation (PDF), you'll see that there are three ways this requirement is achieved. Neutral Wire Required The first method, is to simply require a neural wire. In this configuration, the ...


2

Many switches that need a neutral have equivalent versions from other brands that do not need a neutral. You may be able to find a switch that has the functionality you want without doing additional wiring. While current code requires a neutral at switches, you are allowed to replace existing switches without rewiring if the neutral is not present. If that ...


2

Yes but No. You can plug into a 5A socket an appliance or lead that contains a switch rated at 15A. You can use a 15A switch to turn on/off an appliance rated at 5A. However the appliance connected must not draw more than 5A - it's rating must not exceed 5A. No You cannot normally increase the rating of a socket without running a thicker wire back to ...


2

If all you have is one wire entering the switch, then the power for the switch might come from the light, and you just have a switched hot. The white wire should be marked with tape to indicate it's not being used as a neutral. Unfortunately, if this is the case, then you don't have a neutral available at this switch which is necessary for most of these ...


2

Proper connection of a two-way circuit is (sorry about the ASCII sketch) sw1 sw2 load _________________ hot ____/ ______()_____ neutral _________________ / ... two single-pole, double-throw switches back to back. When both are switched one way (up in this case), one of the wires between ...


2

All AC switches in home wiring have at least two hot leads. These may be in the form of terminals on the switch (either screw, push-in connections, or both), or wires permanently attached to the switch. The most common switches are: Basic switch (SPST) [old] The simplist switch, in the pre-ground days had just two terminals hot in hot out The wires to ...


2

One red wire on one screw, right? And two black wires under the other screw (or poked into those dang quick-connect holes I hate so much)? If so, that's an ordinary switch, not a three-way. If it actually has three screws on the body of the switch, though, it's a three-way... and given your description of things, there's no really good reason for that. If ...



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