Hot answers tagged switch
Congratulations! You just found a Carter 3-way! This configuration switches each "side" of the lamp between hot and neutral, as depicted in the illustration below: (source: Wtshymanski/Wikipedia) However, due to the switch in the neutral wire, it was possible for the shell of the lampholder to be hot even if it was switched off, leading to a shock ...
The switch/outlet combo you have could physically work, but as pointed out by @Speedy Petey, it would not be code complaint since all outlets in bathrooms need to be GFCI. Consider replacing it with a GFCI/switch combo such as this. The wiring you have should work. One of the cables (which consists of one black and one white wire) is from the mains, and ...
This is not overly complicated and is quite typical. The part of the old switch with two black wires: Remove both wires, splice them with a wire nut and one of the black wires from the dimmer. The other single wire on the switch: Splice with the other black wire from the dimmer. The green form the dimmer goes to the ground(s). LEAVE EVERYTHING ELSE ...
What you want is a switch that looks as follows: This particular unit comes with pigtail leads that make it easy to connect into the existing wiring in a light fixture. The switching configuration is specified as: Single Pole Triple Throw, OFF-ON(P)-ON(N)-ON(N+P)
You've got everything you need. Turn off the breaker, and make sure power is off. -Use a small bit (6-8") of white wire, to make a pigtail from the bundle of white wires. Connect the other end of the white pigtail, to the silver colored screw terminal on the device. Follow the instructions provided with the device, to connect the black wires. Use a ...
The occupancy sensors that are commercially available, are not designed to work in this situation. You could install the sensor in a location that covers both the door, and the rest of the basement. This way the sensor would "see" you the whole time you're in the basement. The other option is to roll your own solution, which would likely include multiple ...
Vivek, as you said in your answer, the other black wire feeds the remaining devices on the circuit. When you switched the connections around, you changed it so the additional devices in the circuit would be interrupted. I'm not well versed on the code, so I can't tell you if it is code, but this is something that should never be done in practice. The only ...
What you have there is a single pole switch that has been tapped to continue the permanent hot to another source. Using the screw terminal and the backstab connector avoids the use of a separate pigtail to join the two wires together
Can't be done, without installing more wires. What you have is known as a "switch loop". An ungrounded (hot) conductor goes to the switch, and a switched ungrounded (hot) conductor comes back from the switch. There's no grounded (neutral), so no way to extend the circuit.
This sounds like a safety lockout occurring on shutdown. You are probably clearing the lockout each time you go through your procedure. Look for a failure code to be set on the control board after the furnace stops. The code should point you in the correct direction.
Rob, thank you for explaining what you are doing, but I got that from your original question. What you need to do is re-wire the complete lighting arrangement in your basement. My suggestion is to remove what's there and put in exactly what you need in each room/area. If you do not know what to do this wiring please simply hire an electrician to do this ...
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