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Typically you'd run 14/2 to the vanity, and 14/3 to the fan/light combo. In the switch box, Connect all the grounded (neutral) conductors. Connect all the grounding conductors. Connect the ungrounded (hot) conductor from the vanity to the switch. Connect one of the ungrounded (hot) conductors from the light/fan to the switch. Connect the other ...


one device would be to use a multimeter. They have something called a continuity tester, whereby you take the two leads. the one end gets pressed against the one end of the wire, and the other end goes to the other end. if there is a connection, then the multimeter will either show on screen of buzz. ... the real problem is to run a temp wire all the way ...


1st, the white wires should be completely covered with black tape. Try putting both same colors at the top and at the bottom, if you have verified all these wires are the travelers from 2, 3-way switches. In this diagram the light is off. Toggling any of the switches will turn it on. hometoys.com


As Speedy said, your wiring is indeed characteristic of a four-way switch. Four-way dimmers are not a COTS item; however, you can put a dimmer there with the help of a 3-position, 2-pole (DPDT) wall switch such as this Hubbell-Bryant 4825I, mounted in a dual gang box and wired as in the following diagram (travelers are black and red, grounds are green, ...


The button fixed it!! Yay Same problem, and I can second that resolution. Took me a few weeks to google the problem, bit lazy about it. But was very annoying not having that light I can tell you. And came across this. Pushed the left button thats at the back there a few times and it came on. Been working ever since. Thanks for the leg work. :) :)

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