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1

That is really sketchy. Built-up 2x4s aren't great for carry loads - something like a 4x4 is much much better. If you want to replace it, a temporary support on each side, take out the wall, dig out a section of the floor, and then pour a footing underneath, let it cure, then put in a replacement post. Steel is a lot more common for this usage than wood.


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Hmm, this definitely looks structural. Any time you see 2 or 3 2x4's nailed together like that it is usually for some kind of header. The other issue I see is that it looks like regular 2x4's and not pressure treated. Anytime you have bare wood sitting on the subfloor, it should be PT. I would definitely put in some supports before you do any cutting to the ...


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As I understand it (second hand from friends in construction) you must maintain a 45-degree slope from the top of the footing (the footing must be buried according to frost depth rules if your crawlspace gets below freezing), whether that be a retaining wall or a dirt slope, you can't cut into that 45-degree or you risk undermining the foundation. A soil ...


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I would install a ledger on all wall areas and the free floating corner I would rabbit out under side of countertop, and wall area to install a heavy L bracket then mud the bracket on wall if need be.


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Find a pipe with a diameter that allows your existing pipe to fit inside. Then cut is just shorter than your horizontal pipe, and put it over the horizontal pipe. The top bar will not bend as much, and the side bars will not bend as much. It may last a lot longer than you expect as-is, but this will reinforce it where it's needed most. This piping isn't ...


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Assuming the pipes are threaded into fittings, to prevent the fittings from loosening, you can use red loctite on threads before assembly.


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Replace just the top piece that the weight is actually hanging off of. You can use 3/4" or 1" pipe for that, and then connect it to the 1/2" pipes of the sides with appropriate fittings.



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