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6

I agree with Jeff Widmer -- you don't need a bigger/stronger bracket, as it's not the bracket that failed, but longer screws to properly fasten the bracket. Given that, your jamb repair doesn't need to be structural so don't sweat how strong it is and just make it look nice with whatever product you've used before and liked. After you drill your pilot ...


5

You can always install the spring. Kids really love playing with these. Until it slams onto their little fingers. Or you can install a closer. These you mount high and it will limit the amount how far back a door will go and how fast the door closes. You can also lock it open when you bring the groceries in. If you already have a closer it either ...


4

What you want is both a closer and a chain. The chain will prevent the door from blowing open too far, slamming the piston of the closer against the door-frame, and bending it. The chain should also have a spring to cushion the shock of having the door blow open to the limit of the chain, but that spring isn't enough to shut the door; you need a closer for ...


4

Can you just use longer screws? The screws would not only go through the damaged wood but also into whatever support is behind it. Of course this would not work if you have a side light on that side. The other thing to consider is not using a storm with a double closer, but just one on the bottom (although you may have a reason for the double closer).


3

The closer has a few purposes: it closes the door so that you don't have to remember to every time. It will also pull the door closed if it opens accidentally (for example, if the wind catches the door). it prevents the door from moving too fast, and usually prevents it from opening past about 90 degrees. (Anecdote: I know someone who didn't have a closer ...


3

Consider replacing that door catch with one of this style. It would be a lot less traumatic to the knuckles when you use the regular door knob. Alternatively you could consider a change of the regular door knob to an exterior lever style unit. These have additional benefit in that they can be opened by means other then a free hand which can be useful when ...


2

Raise the catch and the lock on the door to about 42", about the height of the deadbolt.


2

You dont state what your problem is. You can install the door to the outside of the door frame. It looks like the top sticks out farther than the sides so you either have to add a board the thickness of the distance to the outside of the side frame. If you need more room for the frame flange at the top you can add a 1x2 board to the top of the door . With ...


2

They're called hold-open washers. It won't be easy to assume based on your description. Perhaps post a photo of where the washer normally meets the metal? It sounds like the washer is probably just bent. Maybe you can take it off and straighten it in a vice and try it again. If it comes down to it, and you want to save some money.. you can back the set ...


1

The air piston on the closer has an adjustment screw on the end of it. If you tighten it (or turn it clockwise) the door closes slower. Loosening the screw causes it to close faster. Also, check to make sure the prop clip on the rod is slid back as far as it will go. Good,luck!


1

If it was done with the siding, you're in for a fiasco. You might just trim it off to the siding's J-channel. But, it should be nailed-on along both edges. Unless you've got a Sheet Metal Brake or know how to duplicate its clean bends without a Brake, then I'd just leave it & tack it down behind the hinges. It's likely that it's covering rotted wood ...


1

Well, there's rigid plastic, which is much lighter weight than glass for similar strength, but generally more subject to scratches. There are also plastic film products that would be similar to a screen in terms of weight and installation, some of which are very clear. Glass weight is primarily a function of thickness, so thinner glass would be lighter than ...


1

A shop that fabricates sheet metal can probably fabricate a new one. A company that installs metal roof systems would be a good candidate because they deal with pre-finished materials on a regular basis. An HVAC shop could probably also fabricate something but they are less likely to have a finished material. If you're ambitious, you could perhaps fabricate ...


1

Routing and a bit of chiseling at the corners and the bottoms of the 2 legs shouldn't be too expensive if hired. Good time to buy and learn to use a router. The transom is a bit tight, so you might need a rabbet plane or a oscillating multitool. Just get a accurate drawing of what size rough opening the storm door wants. Alternatively, you could attach ...



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