New answers tagged stairs
I'd like to echo that if you intend to have an unsupported cast concrete staircase, the amount, size, and placement of rebar is likely essential. This is entirely a question for an engineer. As a design alternative, you may find that using steel as the structure and adding concrete as treads may be more cost effective. If you google, I think you can ...
If you had an professional engineer design the whole unit as an assembly it may be possible to have the railings and metal concrete reinforcing members in the steps and risers work as a trussed span structure that was only supported at the bottom step and at the top step. This is definitely not a project for any local neighborhood handyman, general masonry ...
If you used 1" solid oak stair treads they could float that distance; you're going to use hardwood flooring? stair-treads.com Stair treads could be directly applied to the existing sub, so long as it will still be an acceptable rise. Continue with hardwood on the second floor to meet the new landing height, transitioning back down further into the hallway ...
I think the least invasive way to handle this is to add two more stingers, one right against the existing stairs(essentially just a nailer) and one out at the ultimate width of the new treads. This way you don't have to remove the old sub-treads/risers or change the height of your treads, which would cause you grief when you get to the top of your staircase. ...
Painting is easy; scaffold is for when you actually have to get up there and do something like plaster or wiring. Those tiny diameter paint rollers do wonders in the corners (slightly bend/angle the roller's handle). Also, so do brushes taped to a pole: (polesandmore.com, notice some of these are triple length)
If I ever had to tile a heart shaped tub (and God willing someday I will) I would be looking at the Schluter Kerdi system. They have a great website with videos, pdf's of installation procedures, and videos demonstrating techniques. And their products are easier to work with than traditional cemetitious backers. They even have a board specifically made for ...
If you want to cut Hardiboard on a curve just use an angle grinder with an old diamond blade on it. Will cut it like butter. You will need goggles and a very good mask though - and do it outside.
I have used HardieBacker, Wonderboard and Durock and I'd use 1/4 Wonderboard in this application. IIRC, it is the most ductile (bends before it breaks) of the three. On a stair subject to being kicked, you may want to use two sheets of quarter inch (the same trick for bending drywall) with troweled mortar between them. Basically, backerboard easily lets you ...
A jigsaw fitted with a carbide or metal cutting blade will cut through the backer board without a problem. Sounds like a pretty long cut, so you may go through a few blades. But those are cheap. However, the dust created is not healthy. At a minimum, do all the cutting outside and if it were me, I'd use a respirator.
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