Hot answers tagged

21

How about using baby gates to keep your baby off the stairs entirely?


20

The Stairway Manufacturing Code Association published the International Residential Code (PDF Link) in 2006 which tells you just about everything you could ever want to know about stairs, including: minimum headroom depth (6' 8") minimum tread depth (10") maximum rise (7.75") maximum tread depth variability (3/8") maximum rise variability (3/8") maximum ...


16

First of all, since it sounds like this could be considered "occupied space", you better check your local building codes and/or with your local inspector to see what is allowed. Most codes have specific requirements for stairs, and in some jurisdictions strange things like spiral stair cases may not be allowed or may require specific approval because of ...


15

The general rule (in the US) is 7-11 (a 7 inch rise and 11 inch run). More exactly, no more than 7 3/4 inches for the riser (vertical) and a minimum of 10 inches for the tread (horizontal or step). You can find some more information here as well on other stair-related dimensions. To calculate if the steps will be within the Building Codes specs : 2 times ...


15

If it's structural (the tread/risers are supported by it), it's called a stringer. If it's not structural, it's called skirting (or simply a skirt). Source (PDF)


11

The number one reason for creaking floors, staircases and furniture is they are assembled using regular nails. The problem with regular nails is the following. When you put load onto any board in your assembled staircase the board bends slightly and this causes it to slightly pull the nails at the places where the board is connected to other parts. After ...


10

Not what you asked, but for safety the most important thing, even more important IMO than getting the right rise and run, is that every step is consistent. Varying as little as 1/4 inch in rise will make even a ballerina fall on her face if she's running up the stairs.


9

The standard is usually 34" to 38". Check your local building codes - apparently some cities specify exactly 36". The International Residential Code covers just about everything you could want to know about stair standards.


9

If you're using an extension ladder, they sell Ladder leveling feet. I also stumbled across this product The PiViT Ladder tool, though you'd need two for a step ladder.


8

You need to have a graspable (grippable) handrail... in other words something that you can get your hand around and hold onto if you fall off the steps. The 2x6 is too big for your hand to grab around and does not qualify. Standard handrail brackets usually look something like this: Also see this article (Deck Stair Handrails) for a picture of a ...


8

I'd go ahead and pull it up and see what you've got. It sounds like it's in pretty poor shape so you're going to have to get rid of it either way. Depending on how the carpet was installed you'll probably find tack strips that look something like like this: You might also find staples -- I don't know if this is common but our installer used a staple gun ...


7

Since the house is 100 years old, the stairs are probably constructed using a tapered groove and wedge system. The stringers typically had tapered dados cut into them to receive the stair treads. Wedges were tapped in with glue underneath the tread to lock the tread into place. Check if this is the case by looking under the stairs. Hopefully the ...


7

The height is generally from the front of the tread straight up to the top of the handrail. To get the brackets at the right height, you'll need to do some measuring and marking. Measure the bracket top to bottom (if its height isn't already stated in the literature). You can allow for the thickness of the handrail by resting it on the stairs and ...


7

Move the anchors to a stud and attach them with long screws. Use a stud finder (preferably with a deep scan capability since you mentioned plaster) to locate your studs. Or you can drill some small test holes since you already need to patch the wall. Don't use drywall screws, you need something with more shear strength. I wouldn't use anything less than a ...


7

If you had an professional engineer design the whole unit as an assembly it may be possible to have the railings and metal concrete reinforcing members in the steps and risers work as a trussed span structure that was only supported at the bottom step and at the top step. This is definitely not a project for any local neighborhood handyman, general masonry ...


7

Typically a riser bracket is used, it would help if the stair return was longer but a piece of lattice cut to follow the zig-zag of the stair may work too. EDIT 1-5-2016 Here is another angle....


6

Nope. That's for the top of the staircase where the floor runs out. Stairs need to be extremely stable. Any movement at all can lead to disaster. Your best bets are to refinish (tough) or carpet.


6

There's no such thing as US building codes, there are state, county, and municipal codes which vary widely between areas. The only way to know is to ask, which is what I'd recommend you do. There's no harm in it, simply call the office that is responsible and ask. You don't have to say you've already done it if you're worried about it, you could say you are ...


5

I had oriental carpeting which wore along the front edge of the steps. My clever Mom told me what they used to do in the old days was to move the carpet a half step so the worn part would then be the crease on the next step down....so I did it and it worked perfectly, I still have that nice antique carpeting which I love and was cut to order, but it's not as ...


5

The best way to deal with a low rail for toddlers is to add a second one. That way adults won't be surprised to find a rail at the low end of the range, and toddlers won't have to reach up. In theory you could remove the second rail when your children are taller. In my experience, parents of 8-year olds sometimes don't get around to removing inoffensive ...


5

Much like DA01 said, a ceiling fan generally acts to circulate air within a particular space of the home. This evens out the temperature of the air in the room by preventing "stratification" (where the air settles into noticeable "layers" so it's warmer at head height than at the floor), and also provides an illusion that the air is cooler by constantly ...


5

It looks to be exactly like a garage door. I take it lowering the stairs tensions a spring attached to the drums so it is easier to raise. Exact same system as sectional garage doors. The springs can be very dangerous to someone unaware of their potential. I think you should look for someone experienced with sectional garage doors, they will understand this ...


5

While local codes certainly vary, in general there's nothing wrong that I know of with that installation. Your door is not on the stairs, it's in the hall.


5

A few options. 1 - Grip/tread tape (easy/cheap but maybe ugly): 2 - Rubber treads (modern/industrial look): 3 - 'tread/grip' additive for paint (easiest to 'blend in' to decor): 3b - DIY 'tread/grip' additive:


5

Spindles (also called balusters) on a staircase are supposed to be properly spaced, structured and attached to prevent a toddler (or anyone else) from falling under the railing. Typical spacing is 4" on centers, too narrow to fit even a small head between, but check your local code. Obviously children could insert a limb and get hurt, but collapse is ...


5

Absolutely do not use an expanding gap filler, it will make matters worse. If you have verified that each step is level so that it doesn't need to be re-secured to the tread than the gaps can be filled. Also verify that the steps are not loose or shifting. The easiest and most used product to fill each gap would be a latex caulking. A cartridge (or tube) ...


5

Unfortunately, as with most questions like this, you're going to have to talk to an engineer. A bunch of amateur DIYers on the internet, is not the proper resource for this type of information. You're making a major structural change to a building, and you don't want it to cause property damage or personal injury. The "correct" and responsible thing to ...


4

You cut strips of thin plexiglass and install them where the risers would be. Since they would be transparent, they would not have to fill the entire void of the open space, they would just need to be large enough so any opening are smaller than than a hole a kid could get though (i think code is like 4".) You could use small screws that would simply hold ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible