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Bleach and water do work very very well, though they are hard on the worms, they come out of the ground where the run off spills over, thus a sparing amount in a sprayer works well and is economical, just dilute somewhat and spray on. I mist the concrete fairly well prior to spraying, I also like using a stiff brush to distribute well and rinse before ...


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First, Minwax wiping stains are inferior...so is there conditioner...in fact the only thing they do well is marketing. Step up to Sherwin Williams BAC or Old Masters and you'll never look back. Having said that, in this case you need a gel stain. Second, conditioner although indispensable when working with soft woods, will only get you so far. With a quality ...


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If it were me I'd hit it with a dye stain first to help color the scratches but this takes a light touch and a bit of experimenting to get the tone right. If the marks disappear with a little oil you can probably just apply (after a good cleaning with Murphy's Oil Soap) a light coat of linseed or tung oil, followed by a reapplication of whatever poly was ...


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Some woods, especially softwoods such as pine/fir/spruce, are notorious for taking stain oddly. The usual solution is to "condition" the wood before staining, to reduce absorbancy overall and make them behave more like we would expect. There are products sold specifically for the purpose, or dewaxed shellac can be used. Many discussions of this exist on ...


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The can says it all. Personally I don't like it but landlords love it. Left with 40% usable material there's not much you can do except replace it all. Multiple rooms worth of salvage may make up for one of them. Reading your other post, this trim was recently reattached, making it rather impossible to remove without destroying it. This product requires only ...



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