Hot answers tagged staining
10
The key to any finishing or refinishing job is proper preparation.
1) Clean the deck, railings etc well, removing as much dirt, grime etc with a power washer on medium setting
2) Wet the area with a mixture of 2/3 gal water, 1/3 gal bleach, and 1/2 cup TSP.
3) Let the mixture set for 5 minutes, then scrub it in with a stiff bristle push broom wetted in ...
9
The finish color is dependent on two things...the stain, and the substrate (well, and some other variables as well...such as application method, length of time before you wipe it, how many coats, etc.). You can't use one stain on two substrates and expect a match anymore than you would expect finding a match with two different stains on one piece of wood.
...
9
Remove the door knob and latch mechanism.
Sand the damaged area, focusing on feathering down the edge between the old finish and the now unfinished areas. Start with an 80 grit and work in steps up to 120G or even 150G depending on how much you love this door. Be careful not to get too aggressive, this looks like a veneered hollow-core door and you want to ...
9
If the pros couldn't do much, It sounds like the stain is there for good. Some suggestions:
small throw rug/welcome mat. Just cover it up!
bring in a pro to swap that bit of carpet with maybe something in a closet, or just a far corner. A good carpet pro should be able to seam it all back together.
dye the entire carpet a shade or two darker. I know such ...
6
The tannins from oak leaves will leave stains behind. I would suggest not worrying about it. Those stains are just character, part of nature. Choose to appreciate nature.
You could probably bleach them out (using simple chlorine bleach or oxalic acid), but why? Why introduce harmful chemicals into the area that may hurt you or damage your plants? Besides, ...
6
First, a quick note on technique - start with a coarse grade sandpaper on the floor sander and work down to the the finer grade.
The coarse grade removes the old finish and levels out the imperfections, then the fine grade makes it nice and smooth. If you go the other way around, you'll definitely curse every time you see the grooves in the sunlight. ...
6
It might be better if you didn't stain the wood.
We have varnished the floors in nearly all the rooms in our circa 1900 house and in each case we used clear Ronseal Diamond Hard varnish - it's quick drying and "does what it says on the tin" * - and with three coats it still darkens the wood quite nicely.
It isn't necessary to stain before varnishing and ...
6
The other answers not withstanding, please keep in mind that a glossy finish will probably be more slippery when it is wet (maybe even when it is still dry). This may be why you are having a hard time finding a glossy deck finish. I think you will find that surfaces that are great for traction and safety (rougher, sandpaper like) will be the exact opposite ...
6
There are 2 basic categories for wood finishes; those that penetrate, and those that coat. Linseed oil, wax, "hand rubbed polish" finishes are all examples of a penetrating finish. Varnish, lacquer, shellac are examples of coating finishes. There are many different reasons to choose one over the other. Some factors:
what type of wood
how will the wood be ...
6
Painting a pressure treated wood deck is always tricky. Pressure treated wood does not seem to hold paint well, even with a good primer. Stain is usually a better alternative, but since your deck already has paint, it would have to be stripped completely before using stain.
In order for the paint to stick fairly well, the surface needs to be as clean and ...
5
Have you been in contact with the company that did the original job? I'd certainly say it's their responsibility to fix the problem at no additional cost to you.
As far as the method of fixing the problem, sanding is probably your best option. When I was figuring out how to properly stain test scraps, I made a few mistakes (see this question). Just to ...
5
A nice trick (learned as a wood turner) is to spritz some mineral spirits on the wood. I usually use rubbing alcohol, as I keep that around. (Not mineral oil, as that will not evaporate.) Anything that will "wet" the wood, but evaporate quickly without leaving a residue, and without raising the grain as water would do. Water is bad of course in this context, ...
5
When ever I prep a deck for restaining, I clean it with a mixture of TSP, bleach and water. I apply the mixture, scrub it with a stiff broom and rinse it well with water or a power washer. Let it dry well, then apply stain. The cleaning solution helps remove the dirt, grime, spills, etc. Pretty basic stuff, I admit.
As far as why your stain doesn't want to ...
5
Regardless of the religious factor involved in painting hardwood trim, (lololol) if you must do it, you need to buff sand the wood, 150 or 220 is fine for this step. PRIME the trim with BINs Bullseye, pigmented shellac. After the Bins dries, very lightly sand it again with 220-400 paper or 4/0 steel wool. It will be smooth as glass. The shellac will seal ...
4
One option is to replace the board.
You would need to:
Cut out the old board.
Find a board that matches the type and grain of the rest of the floor
Install the new board.
Stain it to match.
Buy your dog a chew toy. :)
UPDATE
You can remove most of the old board by:
Cutting it out with a circular saw.
Using a hammer and chisel (or even a flathead ...
4
Have you considered wood dyes, not stains? You can buy dyes in a wide variety of colors/shades from woodworking specialty stores online.
The dyes may seem expensive, but they are very concentrated, and because you can dilute them and mix them as you wish, you have a better chance of being able to fine tune the mix so that you get something that's close. ...
4
I'd give it a once-over with 180 or 220 grit. I've made the mistake of assuming surfaces were smooth enough to paint/stain and found rough spots while in the process of finishing. Nothing will make you want to kick yourself more than realizing that first coat of paint/stain you just applied needs to be sanded back off so you can properly prep the surface.
...
4
Quick Google search turns up Modello Gel-lo
Modello Gel-lo is a thickening agent for liquid coloring mediums such
as acid and water-based stains for concrete. The addition of Modello
Gel-lo allows for more controlled color application and helps to
reduce "wicking" of the stains under the edges of the Modello
patterns.
And Stain Mule™.
...
4
This treatment only affects the surface of the wood. It's not going to weaken the table.
That said, the effect of a vinegar/steel wood stain is going to vary a lot depending on the type of wood you're staining. It will be best to test your entire finishing process including the clear finish on the actual table. You can use the bottom or some other ...
4
I really like using a sealing primer like Bin's Bulls Eye. this is a pigmated shellac based primer that can be sanded smooth as glass. It cures very hard, blocks any stains well and is an excellent base for topcoats. For a top coat, you can use a couple of coats of good grade latex gloss or semi gloss (personal preference). If you want a really hard ...
4
If the surface is edge grain and the previous finish was only wax, wiping down with mineral spirits and then sanding using progressively finer grits up to 220 or so should be pretty good preparation to refinish. Skip the soap and water treatment as it won't dissolve any wax and only complicates finishing. Before applying any finish the wood should be ...
4
Using a plug is your best option. Getting an exact match is pretty much impossible. A drill press is the tool of choice for a perfect plug if is conjunction with a good hole saw bit or plug cutting bit. If you can cut the plug from the same stained material in an out of sight location, this would save a lot of time. Color matching is tough to do. Keep in ...
3
I would buy something close and tint it yourself. You can run sample swatches on scraps of your unfinished lumber and stop when you get it right. This will also allow you to experiment with different techniques to see which is the best match, e.g. how long to let the stain soak in before wiping it off.
See ...
3
I would be concerned that sealing the deck now might create a major problem when it comes time to stain it -- I'm thinking big blotches of different shades caused by differing amounts of stain absorption as a result of the sealing. Whereas greasy food morsels will at worst be a minor problem that will likely be completely solved by the good cleaning you're ...
3
The poly simply needs to cure for a while. Even after it "dries" and is safe to work on, the solvents that keep the polymers in suspension aren't all gone; they'll continue to evaporate, and the clear coat will fully harden in time. Check the can for your particular product; it should have a full cure time. It could take up to a month if you laid on a really ...
3
If the wood feels smooth to the touch and you're happy with the color then I wouldn't worry about it. Some woods absorb extra stain without a problem.
If you are worried about tackiness
Apply mineral spirits with steel wool or a scrubby sponge. Clean the gunk off and dry overnight.
This may make the color splotchy or lighter than you intended. If so, a ...
3
When I did my floors I wrapped the lambswool with kitchen plastic wrap, the kind you would wrap a sandwich with. That kept it moist for at least a day. If I went several days between applications, I would just use a new lambswool. It's not good to use mineral spirits (or many other cleaners) bare handed. The health risks just are not worth it. If you don't ...
3
Regardless of sealer or other treatment, I would just keep an eye on the ropes and rungs (the wood) and replace them when they seem to be about to break.
If the rope is nylon, the sun will affect that moreso than the wood. But rope is cheap, and all you need is a drill to be able to replace the rungs.
3
Per earlier, I used MinWax for a while till it faded, then I took 1 part mayonnaise (Hellman's) and 1 part baking soda (not baking powder; I used Arm & Hammer brand) instead of cigarette ashes, mixed it together and rubbed it along the grain directions using a paper towel and some pressure. The stain faded then vanished, and the wood is smooth and ...
3
We're thinking of staining our four year old deck soon, and my only credentials are that we've thought about this scenario.
If I were you, I would go ahead and apply the first coat to the remainder of your deck, basically ensuring that all surfaces are evenly covered. If it does rain and screw up everything, at least the screw-up will be consistent.
I ...
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