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I don't think you'll be happy with spackle for anything bigger across than a nail hole. It's not very strong, and also not very sticky. So what tends to happen in your situation is that the spackle will fall through the hole into the wall; if not when you're applying it then it will be likely to do it when you try to sand it smooth before you paint. I ...

I might consider wallpaper as an option. You can surely find it in a plain paper, in your choice of colors, or any of a million patterns. First, you would need to fill in the grooves with spackle, but now you can do it very quickly. No worries there, just ensure that there are no voids behind the paper. And a plain paper would be relatively inexpensive. ...

That flexing you mentioned in a comment is going to be a real problem for you. Anything you put in those grooves has to be able to flex along with the paneling, otherwise it's just going to crack and/or fall out. One of my brothers had a very similar situation and chose a rather novel solution. He removed all the paneling and reattached it with the revers ...

I had wood paneling at an old house of mine and I ended up just painting it. You could try and skim coat it, DAP makes a product which is escaping me at the moment just for skim coating, but I'd be leary of putting it on paneling. The reason I say this is from my experience, paneling tends to flex quite a bit if put under slight pressure. I'd be afraid that ...

The reason for waiting is to ensure that the plaster dries completely. If you paint over damp plaster the moisture has to still come out - through the paint causing it to bubble and come away. You will end up having to repaint at the very least. If you have only patched the wall then you should be able to prime and paint it sooner as there is less area to ...

Get yourself a drywall sander Sand down the high spots using rough grit (100 grit) sand paper (they sell it to fit the sander - you'll find the sander in the drywall area and the sandpaper in paints) then smooth it with 200 grit. If you have low points, fill them in after sanding. Next time use less mud (little applications, not big ones) and then use a ...

Firstly, @Michael Karas answer addresses the "sagging" Cracking: Premixed Joint Compound (JC) hardens by drying out. As such, it tends to shrink. I only use it for final top coats, where the shrinkage is mitigated and application layers are about 1/8 or so. Setting JC is dry and mixed with water to a similar consistency as Premixed JC, but it hardens ...

Spackle on it's own will work just fine for small holes. For larger holes shoving paper into the hole frequently results in lots of paper inside the wall cavity before you get it sitting just right for patching. At least that's how it goes for me. For holes that might be too gig for just spackle, yet a bit small for drywall tape, one trick I've not seen ...

For a hole the size of a coax cable, I would just spackle. Any larger and I would use drywall compound. It make take a couple of coats. If its up to the size of a nickle (3/4 of an inch), I would put a piece of fiberglass tape over it like Mike suggests. If its larger than that, I would cut a small piece of drywall and tap it into the whole. Here's two ...

(I am assuming the “spackle” is US for filler.) Have a firm base for filler does help, as you need to be able to push on the filler to get it well into the side of the holes. However as it is not the end of the world if the filler breaks when you try to send it, I would try the easy option first. For larger holes I have built up with layers of filler ...

I just finished filling in most of a room of wood paneling by using Elmer's wood putty (comes in tubs of various sizes). It has almost no shrinkage when it dries and goes on easy. You fill the grooves, let it dry (an hour or two) and then sand it with sandpaper so it's smooth. The end result is a very smooth surface that when painted looks like a solid ...