Hot answers tagged

11

The first thing that comes to mind is to: Pick up all of the tiles Excavate a few inches under where they were Put some small gravel down and compact Put some paver sand down and compact Reinstall the tiles Another way to go would be to lay a bed of mortar down over some gravel. That would lock them in really nicely as well.


9

Are the walls insulated? If not, do that first. Most of the heat escapes there...especially the part nearest and above the ground level. With a fully insulated wall, you might not even need to insulate the slab. in MN we insulated our walls and then left the concrete floor as-is (stained it). Only on the coldest winter days did we need to turn on the ...


8

This is done all the time in slab-on-grade houses. The slab is there to give you a nice surface to park on, but is not required for the structural integrity of the garage. So, sure, go right ahead.


8

I would say 10 or 11 bags (depending on how sloppy you are). 0.2 * .05 = .01 .0929 / .01 = 9.29 bags Since you never get perfect yield from a bag, I would personally go with 11 bags.


8

That is not normal or acceptable workmanship. The correct response to a foundation that far out of specification is to require the foundation contractors to rip it out and try again, or not get paid. Clearly that point was missed. The larger problem for you is that you are already entered into a contract with an incompetent, lying builder. I'd have your ...


6

Any place that sells pre-built sheds in your area would likely have advice on site preparation for delivery. I don't know what the soil's like in your area, but if you're going to hit bedrock before 42", it'd likely be easier to put in a slab; If you're likely to hit lots of tree-roots, the slab might be a better choice (so you don't kill a tree, and have ...


6

If it was poured onto an already existing slab, I would try separating it from the slab first to see if it can be broken away and leave the floor intact. Note: The pad should weigh about 815 pounds (370 kg) so light duty efforts are inappropriate. Obtain two heavy steel digging bars like this along with some scrap 2x4s or similar. With heavy gloves on, ...


5

You can install an interior weeping system similar to what you would normally do on the outside, but without the waterproofing. Start by jackhammering out about two feet of floor around the edges of your garage, as close to the walls as you can get. Dig down until you reach dirt, and if that's not at least two feet down, keep going. Now, put down a couple ...


5

If you want to do radiant infloor heating you will need to insulate under the slab. If you don't you will constantly be rejecting heat to the ground underneath the slab, and it will suck excess heat out of the system. If your not going to insulate beneath the slab, abandon the idea of radiant infloor. Your also going to have to use HE Pex for radiant ...


4

thank you so much for the advice and comments. The inspectpr came by yesterday and confirmed our concerns! He is going to fail the framing inspection and has provided a write up for all the items we were questioning. Keeping our eyes peeled for any issues moving forward.


4

After a lot of time wandering the faster aisle at my local Ace, I ended up finding a rubber grommet that fit snugly around the 6d nails I am using. I then took the grommet and found a fender washer that fit the grommet inside it (ended up being a 1/2" washer). Then I drilled a hole in the floating bottom plate large enough for the grommet to drop into ...


3

If I were a buyer I would beware. Why is the house frame not firmly on the foundation? 2" off the slab is more than half the width of the 2x4 base of a wall.


3

Use a biscuit joiner. Then glue and clamp to dry. But depends what you using them for. There not going to be heaps strong if the timber spands over a distance.


3

Putting tile over a painted surface can be risky. Sure looks like removing all that paint would be a chore and maybe hazardous (lead based paint if pre 1978). We have put tile over such surfaces by roughing it a bit and putting a scratch coat of "floor patch and leveler" over the entire surface. This is a good bonding agent on stable subfloors. Another ...


3

Concrete will crack naturally on its own unless it is given a place to crack such as control joint or expansion joint. As the concrete is curing it is heating up and expanding. In the summer time, I have seen the slab crack before being able to walk on it. Regarding footprints, it is tacky. However, the roughness can actually help the concrete and ...


3

The best bet may be to build a frame around the area you want your pool. This can be made from either 4x4 pressure treated timbers or pressure treated landscape ties. These can be attached by drilling and screwing through them into the cedar that is already there or by drilling into the concrete to hold stakes (you can use large galvanized nails) that go ...


3

If your shower isn't sealed behind the tiles the water can leak past the tile and grout down into the space. Very common as most builders only use green board and put tile up over the top. This is asking for troubles down the road. The drain could also be leaking as you believe. In that case plug the drain at the surface and take a shower. If you see water ...


3

It's possible the water is getting around your shower, possibly where the tile meets the tub or pan (if you have one), or behind the fixtures, or even around the door (if any). I would check all of these and recaulk where appropriate before going in for wholesale destruction. Try splashing water by hand/bucket on areas you might suspect and see if that ...


3

Yes, it's a vent for a toilet. If it were an in-floor shower, you might see a P-trap and vent, but the toilet has the trap included in the fixture. The reason you see the vent here and not other locations is that a sink will be vented starting in the wall rather than inside the floor, and the toilet is often after the sink, making the line from the sink to ...


3

If you don't have gutters and the grading around your house isn't sloped away, I'd start there. It's relatively cheap to do and will eliminate most problems. It's also nice, if you have a door at the bottom of a roof edge, to not enter under a waterfall. Once you've done that (or if it's not possible to fix the grading) and the foundation is still wicking ...


3

Back in the day, at least my day, the building code allowed for a maximum of a 1" corbel (extention). I do not see any cracks in the photo that suggests shifting has occurred. If there is a basement or maybe not, while the foundation is laid, or in the case of concrete, while it is poured, the top of the wall can rack out of square. The break between the ...


3

Plumbing in concrete slabs pretty much requires ripping the floor open to make any changes to it. I suppose if you chose a new toilet with a LARGE base and were very careful you MIGHT be able to keep all the floor damage under it, but that's making assumptions that you'll be able to rework cast iron pipes (not the most cooperative things) through a fairly ...


3

Expanding drain plug, fits into inside diameter of pipe than expands to seal when the nut is tightened.


3

10 stout men to tip the slabs on edge, then log rollers, Egyptian style. Maybe a bit of ramp to get them up to their final resting place.


3

155 pounds per cubic foot seems a typical number for concrete. A cubic foot is 12x12x12 inches, or 1,728 cubic inches. Your larger slab comes to 7,625.75 ci and should be right about 684 lbs. Your smaller slabs should be about 464 lbs each. If they have not cured for a month or so, they will be weak/fragile as well as heavy. So you might want to think about ...


3

Normally your drain pipes are ABS plastic having them bedded in the rock is fine. If your supply is copper (I do not recommend copper under a slab) it should be coated so the corrosive effects will not cause pin holes. I have had to replace several sets of copper pipe under a slab it is very expensive the houses were not very old maybe 20 years. I would use ...


3

You do not want to just place the concrete tiles on native ground soil. A proper installation would be to dig out the native soil down to a solid base. Then lay in a layer of crushed rock to aid in water drainage. Directly under the concrete tiles would be some sand that makes it possible to level and even out the tile installation. With the correct ...


2

Cold cement floors in cold climates are a fact of life. As DA01 says, most heat escapes through the walls and ceiling, NOT the floor. The go-to answer to combat cold floors in well-trafficked areas is a radiant floor heating system; it's basically an electric blanket that goes in as an underlayment to tile, laminate or hardwoods (might not work well with ...


2

This is very likely a drainage issue. I would check the following things: Does water drain away from the house near this room? Are plants growing right up next to the foundation? You might want to put a buffer of 10" of rock (4-6" deep) next to the house. Since the house has vinyl siding you need to peek under the siding and see if you have moisture ...


2

A blind person could of poured better than that! Looks like the pour had too much water in the mix. When too much water is added, the aggregate sinks to the bottom and weakens the final product



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