New answers tagged sink
If height is an issue, use 1/4" concrete backer board, screwed and glued down on your floor. Be sure to use backer board screws and alternate seams so tiles won't crack or shift. If height is not an issue, use 1/2". Then, thinset your tiles on the backer board. There shouldn't be any issue with the 12" cabinet. You could use a taller cabinet to create a ...
Nail clippers, for anyone reading this in future. It just happened to me with water in the sink. I spent an hour unsuccessfully trying to pry it out with a butter knife. I couldn't find a plunger or pliers, so I used the best thing at my disposal and thankfully it worked. Just open your clippers and rap them around the rubber ridge in the middle of your plug ...
As country handyman says, if the're already supplying enough you don't need to change them. However, if you're seeing a temp increase when you flush, then you ARE losing pressure, and the hot is making up for it, unbalancing your temperature. I'll wager a guess that the pipe is currently 1/4 inch and that the toilet is fed before the sink. If that's the ...
You don't need to change the pipe size, If the size pipes you have already are supplying enough pressure.
For future reference, this tool is made for just that purpose: Basically, it's an easy-out for drain ends. Here's a link to one on Lowe's web site, albeit a dead one, but it's where I bought mine.
What I ended up doing, was using a heavy duty pair of pliers to grasp on to the drain flange. Then another pair of hands, also using heavy duty pliers, turning the tail piece. I was originally trying to do this on my own, and couldn't grasp the drain and turn the tail piece at the same time. Extra pair of hands did the trick. It's also possible that I ...
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