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Remove everything currently under the sink that is not glued and use a rags to plug the drain pipes. Next, let the counter guys do there work and install the sink. There is nothing to do until they are done. After they are done, follow the install instructions on the disposal. After that is done, mount a new p-trap kit from one of the drain pipes to the ...


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Unscrew the white compression nut and take a look at the sealing ring that is under it. These can get hard with age or over compressed and lose shape and thus lose its ability to squeeze tightly to the down drop pipe from the sink drain. If this is the case it is an indication that the sealing ring needs to be replaced. The common type of the sealing ring ...


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The white fitting should be on top of a small compression ring, so when reassembling the pipes you would add the white female threaded fitting, the compression ring (thin side pointed down), and then the black male threaded side of the fitting. When you tighten this by hand, the compression ring will get squeezed between the two pipes and make a water tight ...


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I found a drain kit at Home Depot that has a plastic L shaped rod connector as part of the kit. The whole thing cost $4.85 so it was a cheap fix. I attached the connector with hose clamps since the rods in the kit were slightly larger than my brushed nickel rods.


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The supply lines, rubber hoses to faucets are bad.


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This just happened to me, yes the little ball does slide on the rod, although it took a hammer to get it to move. Pushing the ball down the rod 2 cm gave me enough rod for the stopper to start working again.


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...and following on my comment, locking pliers would be my gripping tool of choice. this flavor with curved jaws: Not this flavor with straight jaws. However, for the level of stuck you have, I would also use a hammer, in conjunction with the locking pliers - put the things on so they are like this picture looking from above, quite tightly. Tap, don't ...


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The grating is likely part of a threaded barrel that sleeves through the porcelain of the sink and comes out the bottom. This barrel has threads on it under the sink, and a wide and thin nut is threaded onto them squishing the barrel and grating against the sink and securing it. To remove it, disconnect the P-trap beneath the sink first (have a bucket ...


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They do connect. You have to get the right pieces to make them fit. I would cut out pipe by wall, I would put a trap under drain pipe, you will need to extend the black pipe with female/female and pipe so that the trap exits at same level as your exit by wall, then add a right angle on top of trap, pipe two wall, and fit it together with female/female.


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While they are not the most correct way to alleviate your problem, check your favorite home center/big box store for a "flexible tail piece extension". The ideal method would be to remove and realign your current drain. While the flexible drains work they are more prone to clogging due to the accordion like walls of the pipe.



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