New answers tagged sink
In this case the gasket (not band) is supposed to go above the slipnut, it does not matter how much the slipnut is actually tightened on though. It may not go up fully and if it does then the band is way overworn and needs to be replaced. Try putting the gasket back in front/above the slipnut and tightening it! If this holds the water and it doesn't leak ...
To avoid cross-threading, spin it backwards until you feel it drop into another thread; this is where and when it's lined up. First attach it to the sink and then fight with other connection, leaving everything lose until it's all fitted together. For the fitting you have, turn this picture up-side down: (make sure the grommet is properly orientated) ...
It's probably not going to be as simple as "tighten up the bolts" - mysteriously unscrewing themselves is a low likelihood .vs. "there's some deterioration in the wall where they attach" which will need to be addressed. Or "Someone sat on the sink and stressed them/the wood they were attached to." So, the sink probably needs to come off to effect a lasting ...
Yes, what's left of it anyway. My guess is that all of the filters were removed and the lines were just put together so you didn't ask, "Hey, what's this do?". -Nothing, they took everything except the kitchen sink. espwaterproducts.com/about-reverse-osmosis
If you have flexible piping running to the bottom of the faucet: turn off both the hot & cold the water supplies disconnect the piping from the faucet aim the hot water pipe into a bucket and turn the hot water back on (quickly turn it off, of course) repeat for the cold water side If you're getting water in the bucket, the faucet's the problem. If ...
Home Depot shows Delta #RP12516. It should be a somewhat universal part. Any brand should fit. If they don't stock it they can order it. I would first try a local hardware store they are likely to carry a store brand for less than a Delta part. You will also need the clip that attaches the rod to the pivot lever.
I see one issue that doesn't meet the plumbing code. Before you drain down in the vertical there should be a vent. An air admittance valve will take care of that and probably your dining issue too
Question 2: it's not clear to me what countertop material you're using, but if it's a normal postformed laminate type of top, then cut the counter accurately with a jigsaw, using the sink to get the size right. (Again, assumptions, but if it's a self-rimming sink, then you'll probably be around 1/2" in from the actual edge on the front and sides, and further ...
I'd use the square-walled for the sink, so you have more room to work with for pipes. And using the one with cylindrical walls as the main cabinet will help keep items from falling off the shelf into the nether regions the square corners would leave open.
Under the sink, you probably have a shutoff valve for the cold side of the faucet. You could tee off that to a hose bib. The hose bib would have its own closure (I personally prefer the 1/4 turn ones), and you could put a short section of hose on it. You'd probably want to figure out some way of clipping the end of the hose high up in the cabinet so residual ...
Top 50 recent answers are included