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I'm not sure that complete removal is an option. As a result, the way I would tackle this is as follows: First, remove as much as possible with scraping. Next, paint (matching the brick color). If that still doesn't provide an acceptable asthetic, cover it up. Contact the window manufacturer to find out what stain was used and make a trim piece of wood ...


this works fine you may have to find a supplier of it or something like it near you. it takes a lot of time and patience on brick, and you will have to reapply it many times to get it all off, but if you are patient, it removes all traces of silicones.


You can fill the gap with sealant, then let it set (which might take longer than you think, even a day or two) before doing the actual seal. For the one where the sealant is failing, there are two main causes - either it didn't stick very well in the first place or the two sides of the seal are moving apart (hence the advice to fill a bath before sealing ...


For UK users there is no separate seal as such, it's part of the tube itself. The top of the threaded part that goes into the nozzle is cut off using a craft knife.


In a pinch you use the cutter on the side of the caulking gun, but a utility knife should be used if you plan to do detailed work vs just slopping the caulk on. (The puncturing wire on the gun is fine, though, if there is a seal in the cartridge.) To reseal the tube, take a short piece of duct tape and fold it over the tip, with the fold over the end of ...


A knife to cut the tip at the desired spot, and a nail to puncture the seal inside. You'll use the nail later to hold the partially-used tube. I remember as a kid never having any of that built into the caulking gun. Later, when I tried one that had a handy "cigar clipper" thing on the handle, I thought it was terrible, not allowing easy selection of the ...


Yes! the tool is called a caulk gun. Use the spout cutter for cutting off the tip of the tube; then use the seal punch tool for poking holes in the foil seal.

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