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6

Plexiglas (poly (methyl methacrylate)) is strongly attacked by xylene, one of the solvents in the sealant you selected. I'd expect the sealant to soften the plexiglas and probably also whatever plastic the air conditioner is made of.


4

Escutcheon = the cover plate used over a hole in a surface that exists to allow a pipe/fitting to go through the wall. Your first picture looks like it's a simple case of the escutcheon needing to be re-caulked. Using a scraper, clean the existing caulk completely from the wall, then apply a new clean bead of bathroom grade white silicon caulk around the ...


4

By all means, use denatured or isopropyl alcohol to remove all mineral spirits. Go over the entire area a few times with the alcohol on a clean micro fiber cloth, turning the cloth each time to be sure no spirits are being reintroduced to the surface. The surface should be squeaky clean.


3

The problem, although difficult, can be solved. If the silicone has squeezed out from the drywall joint it needs to be cut. With a utility knife slice away all dried silicone that is above the surface of the drywall. The lower the better. Don't be overly concerned about damaging the drywall panels; don't butcher them, but don't preform surgery either. After ...


2

Sometimes, I've had success with an eraser: It won't damage tile, but results depend on how porous/grippy the tile surface is. Amazon sells them, so should any local Office Supply or School Supply store.


2

The silicone will penetrate into the micro fissures on the surface of the stone. It will also be rather hard to get off once you attempt to remove the mats. You can get most of the silicon bead off with a sharp putty knife and/or a razor blade type window scraper. However the part that has penetrated down into the surface fissures will be nearly impossible ...


2

You don't remove it. The silicone is probably just to secure the pipe to the wall - so it doesn't wiggle or so that air doesn't get in. If you need access to the pipe I would cut the white pipe. This would allow you to fully snake anything below. Chances are pretty high that all of these pipes are glued very well together. They are not meant to wiggle ...


2

If you saturate toilet paper with the remover and slap it on your vertical surface it will stick there and hold it against the caulking. Practice a couple times with water to get a feel for the appropriate amount of moisture. Scrape off as much as possible before you start in with the remover though. Just to clarify, you should be using a plastic blade in ...


1

When I set the splashes on my granite tops, any ooze that occurred with the silicone, I wiped to the best of my ability. with paint thinner. The trick is to govern the amount you use so it lessens the mess. That said, with the ooze that did happen, since the paint thinner made everything so shiny, even with many, many repeated wipes with a moistened cloth, I ...


1

A utility knife works pretty well for me. If it truly is granite, it is difficult to damage with steel blades, except by repeated slashing. Of course you won't be able to remove every shred of the old caulk, but as long as there is significant clean and bare edge in the gap, it is good enough to hold a new application. A powerful shop vacuum mated to a ...


1

I doubt it would be a serious issue unless you really mixed in the canola. However, if it does become a problem next time use plain water. Water in the air is actually the catalyst that drys silicone, construction workers will take a cup of water and dip their finger in it to smooth silicone on things like bathtub installations so that the silicone won't ...


1

This works on dried silicone and is pretty non-toxic



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