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42

Yes! the tool is called a caulk gun. Use the spout cutter for cutting off the tip of the tube; then use the seal punch tool for poking holes in the foil seal.


6

Plexiglas (poly (methyl methacrylate)) is strongly attacked by xylene, one of the solvents in the sealant you selected. I'd expect the sealant to soften the plexiglas and probably also whatever plastic the air conditioner is made of.


5

By all means, use denatured or isopropyl alcohol to remove all mineral spirits. Go over the entire area a few times with the alcohol on a clean micro fiber cloth, turning the cloth each time to be sure no spirits are being reintroduced to the surface. The surface should be squeaky clean.


4

Escutcheon = the cover plate used over a hole in a surface that exists to allow a pipe/fitting to go through the wall. Your first picture looks like it's a simple case of the escutcheon needing to be re-caulked. Using a scraper, clean the existing caulk completely from the wall, then apply a new clean bead of bathroom grade white silicon caulk around the ...


3

Much like the bolt suggestion, I found these at a hardware store several years ago and have used them regularly. They are actually called caulk savers. Unfortunately, I don't recall exactly where I found them, but I have seen them around from time to time. I did use them to save some silicone at one point, but only for a few days, maybe a week or so. I ...


3

The problem, although difficult, can be solved. If the silicone has squeezed out from the drywall joint it needs to be cut. With a utility knife slice away all dried silicone that is above the surface of the drywall. The lower the better. Don't be overly concerned about damaging the drywall panels; don't butcher them, but don't preform surgery either. After ...


3

If your question is about the air ducts, why not use the correct material for the job, rather than silicone caulk. Duct sealant is, literally, made for the job. It also costs less, on a quick look.


3

If you saturate toilet paper with the remover and slap it on your vertical surface it will stick there and hold it against the caulking. Practice a couple times with water to get a feel for the appropriate amount of moisture. Scrape off as much as possible before you start in with the remover though. Just to clarify, you should be using a plastic blade in ...


2

Sometimes, I've had success with an eraser: It won't damage tile, but results depend on how porous/grippy the tile surface is. Amazon sells them, so should any local Office Supply or School Supply store.


2

The silicone will penetrate into the micro fissures on the surface of the stone. It will also be rather hard to get off once you attempt to remove the mats. You can get most of the silicon bead off with a sharp putty knife and/or a razor blade type window scraper. However the part that has penetrated down into the surface fissures will be nearly impossible ...


2

You don't remove it. The silicone is probably just to secure the pipe to the wall - so it doesn't wiggle or so that air doesn't get in. If you need access to the pipe I would cut the white pipe. This would allow you to fully snake anything below. Chances are pretty high that all of these pipes are glued very well together. They are not meant to wiggle ...


2

silicone is only soluble in few solvents, mostly modified methylsiloxanes. you can buy commercially available silicone solvents at most big box stores, but if you cant find them, they are here: http://www.valco-cp.com/solvent200.htm (this is the one we use - less agressive but doesn't dissolve acrylics) ...


2

A knife to cut the tip at the desired spot, and a nail to puncture the seal inside. You'll use the nail later to hold the partially-used tube. I remember as a kid never having any of that built into the caulking gun. Later, when I tried one that had a handy "cigar clipper" thing on the handle, I thought it was terrible, not allowing easy selection of the ...


1

this works fine http://www.rona.ca/en/paint---silicone-remover you may have to find a supplier of it or something like it near you. it takes a lot of time and patience on brick, and you will have to reapply it many times to get it all off, but if you are patient, it removes all traces of silicones.


1

You can fill the gap with sealant, then let it set (which might take longer than you think, even a day or two) before doing the actual seal. For the one where the sealant is failing, there are two main causes - either it didn't stick very well in the first place or the two sides of the seal are moving apart (hence the advice to fill a bath before sealing ...


1

while still wet, denatured alcohol will work.


1

Silicone or the Duct Sealant are fine. But, either need to be protected, faced, supported & sealed with Aluminum Foil Tape, the real duct tape. Before anything though, you need to solidify your duct joints (supplies & returns), they can't slip apart or slide & deflect in any direction. Just sink short self-tapping duct screws (sharp pointed ones, ...


1

Duct mastic or metal tape is the recommended method for sealing forced air supply ducts. All the cool kids are using mastic these days.


1

I doubt it would be a serious issue unless you really mixed in the canola. However, if it does become a problem next time use plain water. Water in the air is actually the catalyst that drys silicone, construction workers will take a cup of water and dip their finger in it to smooth silicone on things like bathtub installations so that the silicone won't ...


1

A dry silicone spray lube is fine for bare wood applications. If you apply the spray to a cloth then wipe it on the binding surfaces, you should not have any problems with swelling. you can also use furniture polish, but in many cases, polish uses a silicone base as well with wax. Wax can build up, so I like pure silicon best. As with any application to ...


1

When I set the splashes on my granite tops, any ooze that occurred with the silicone, I wiped to the best of my ability. with paint thinner. The trick is to govern the amount you use so it lessens the mess. That said, with the ooze that did happen, since the paint thinner made everything so shiny, even with many, many repeated wipes with a moistened cloth, I ...


1

A utility knife works pretty well for me. If it truly is granite, it is difficult to damage with steel blades, except by repeated slashing. Of course you won't be able to remove every shred of the old caulk, but as long as there is significant clean and bare edge in the gap, it is good enough to hold a new application. A powerful shop vacuum mated to a ...


1

You are always going to get some water behind the vinyl siding that is what the housewrap is for. You can caulk the sides if you want too but its not necessary. Water that makes it to the inside of the j channel will also get behind the siding.


1

This works on dried silicone and is pretty non-toxic



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