Hot answers tagged

13

Most towns/cities will not be too happy with you, if you start cutting up their road. So you'll have to use a method that will be completely on your property. Dump some dirt The easiest solution would be to build up the area with a load of dirt. Using a wheelbarrow and a shovel, grab some dirt from another location in your yard. If you can't find a place ...


7

You could dig a dry well, which is a pit for water to collect and soak away through. At the same time, you will raise the grade which will further help reduce the problem. Simply dig the area out to a depth of a foot or two, dump in six inches to a foot of gravel, then re-cover with soil, and have your final grade end up about six inches higher than before....


4

Looking at the flaky condition of the concrete patch and the fact that it is such a small section I'd say the investing time and money in any type of grinding process is a total waste of money. The open voids in the surface of the concrete and the grainy texture of the patch area really indicates the low grade of the installed lump. Break it up, re-form ...


4

Use a cleaning product called CLR also known as calcium,lime and rust remover. It is available at hardware stores and home centers.


4

First of all, drilling or otherwise changing the road will likely expose you to a huge fine or maybe even jail time in some jurisdictions, all changes should only be made to the lawn. Now you really want to get rid of that water and do that without major changes. The cheap way would be to utilize the area around the bushes (the ones on the left) for ...


4

Depending on where you live, reclaimed brick can be very inexpensive. The same theory still applies: if there's a problem in the future, just pull up the bricks and re-level the bed. However, bricks are thicker than bluestone, so will you have less stone/sand between the brick and the roots, and thus less room for adjustment. Another possibility is just ...


3

The gap exists for drainage. Technically, it's a gutter. In order to create a level surface to drive on, you need to fill at least part of the gutter - but you need to do so without impacting the gutter's drainage ability. Any permanent change you make WILL need to be permitted by the city/county, or they will likely make you take it back out again at ...


3

Is it a public road? If so, then the road, the puddle, and some right away from the edge of the road belongs to your village, city, town, county or state. That puddle is bad for the edge of the road (look at those cracks heading toward it), ask them to fix it. Write a nice letter, or attend a local government meeting.


3

The best pry bar model that I know of for lifting concrete slabs is "big" (as in, the bigger, the better). Use a block of wood or something else that's large, to distribute the weight on the ground, for your pivot. You'll likely have to dig out one, if not two sides to pry and maneuver these blocks. Avoid putting too much pressure on a single point, since ...


2

You can mud-jack sinking concrete. A company comes out, drills a hole in the slab, then forces a slurry through it to raise the slab up. Google 'mud jacking' and you should find some options in your area. For the cracks, use polymeric sand to fill them.


2

Immediately, and until you are done patching it, put an orange traffic cone over the hole. Slip a flat stick tied to a wire in the middle through the hole. Pull the wire up to make the stick cover at least part of the bottom of the hole - you can perhaps twist the wire on the rusty rebar to hold it in place. Push the remaining ends of the wire down below ...


1

You should contact the city and/or owner of the property/tunnel, and alert them to the problem. It looks like a city manhole cover, so that should probably be your first call. If they don't own the tunnel, contact local utilities (gas, water/sewer, electric, etc.) until you figure out who owns it. You should not personally try to fix the problem, unless ...


1

If you are going to put 3" down you would be better served to do a new walkway. Have you looked into "slabjacking" or "mudjacking" to raise your old slabs. Might be cheaper if the surface of your old slabs is still in good shape.


1

Why don't you move the end a little further uphill and empty the pipe into some kind of culvert drain or splash block that slopes down to the curb? Or you could use a pipe fixture like this: There's a brand name behind that thing (Mitered Drain), and I'm not sure there are identical alternatives, so I'll go ahead and identify the brand. I'm not their ...


1

Rent terrazzo grinder, perhaps - or just go into the tool rental place near you and explain your problem and ask what they have that might work. Something generally LIKE a terrazzo floor grinder (but perhaps more suited to use outside) would be more or less right. Breaking it up and re-pouring it might be quicker, cheaper and easier.


1

I wouldn't go forward with that plan. Diverting the water three feet away from the foundation won't stop the water from getting to your foundation. You need to put a french drain in and ensure that there is an outlet for the water to go somewhere where it won't damange anything. You can buy premade french drain material at your local home improvement ...


1

I am assuming you mean water is getting into your basement and the sidewalk connects to your foundation. My First step would be to try and seal where the sidewalk touches to foundation. There is probably a crack there where the water is getting in. The best sealant would come in a caulk tube make sure it is flexible and made for concrete. Do not get the ...


1

get a few lengths of 1" pvc pipes and lay them in the gutter.get a couple bags of 50' quickkrete and eliminate the gap without clogging your pipes. water can pass ans so can your low rider



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible