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This idea will be better than nothing, and it may not stop it all, and if you have large tile rather than small tile, there will be less chance of damaging the wall. Since the water supply lines are PEX or something similar, you might could use those too. But to get at what the fix is, push the copper pipe that is at the top that goes to the shower head, ...


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Assuming that you have drywall next to the Kerdi board it doesn't really matter. The backer board should reach the outside of the wet area. After that it doesn't matter what is behind your tile - drywall/backer. I often just run the backer to the point where I don't have to cut it or to the closest stud. Actually running your kerdi board to the edge of ...


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If you have a vapor barrier (e.g. sheet polyethylene) behind the drywall, then you have a major problem. Painted drywall is airtight but not vapor-tight; moisture can migrate through it. And when moisture migrates through the drywall and hits the polyethylene sheeting, it has nowhere else to go. The fact that it currently condenses on the walls tells me that ...


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Coathanger, cut into a wire, with a hook on the end might work. Push the hooked end past the stuck brush, keeping the hook near the perimiter of the pipe. Rotate the hanger 90° so the hook is under, and engages, the stuck toilet brush. Pull up on the end of the coathanger with a pliers or vicegrips.


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First as Henry Jackson mentions the low flow shower heads are part of the the water consumption laws passed in the US. I am not sure how the US compares to other countries. I have done construction in France and in Spain and nobody has mentioned this to me and I never really thought about the pressure after installation - if I were to guess they seem to ...


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In the US the low-flow shower heads are mandated by federal law, so it may not be easy to find a non-restricted one. I am not a lawyer but I would think that advertising the un-restricted flow rate would be a subversion of the law and therefore unlikely to be legal. If you want a non-low-flow shower head I would just take the restrictor cap out of any ...


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It's not "backwards" or a "mistake" at all - it's perfectly standard for dual (separate hot/cold control) faucets. In a sink deployment, you pull the outside (away from the faucet) of the handle forward to open, and push it back to close - that requires the hot and cold to close in "different directions" from a clock-wise perspective - which is perfectly ...


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I would simply add a layer of grout here and seal it afterward if it were my house. Anything else is going to take a ton of work. Adding a layer of grout and sealing it is one hours work and quite possibly is all you need. Doing anything else probably requires you to remove the tile from the shower, and this is what I would do at someone else's house, ...


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The tile and grout in an all tile shower are not waterproofing materials but long wearing easy cleaning finish ones. IF your shower was built properly it goes like this from top to bottom... -The tile and grout laid in thin-set tile cement. -A layer of portland cement or thin-set cement -A thick rubber waterproofing membrane -A layer of portland cement ...


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This is combined problem. Firstly, your grouting material might not be suitable, but what is even bigger problem person who did ceramic tiles work did a poor job; distance between tiles is very, VERY big, and this is the reason why grouting has cracked. You should remove all of the old grouting with some appropriate tool; beware not to damage waterproofing ...


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Since you do have hot water coming out of other faucets it is most likely your shower valve. Many of the single handle shower faucets have a cartridge valve that is very easy to replace. The cartridges are specific to the faucet so you will need to look up your model. I had a similar problem with mine. The cartridge cost around $60 and took about 10 minutes ...


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That appears to be intended to pry out with a screwdriver or similar flat tool at the indents a little past 6 o'clock and a little past 12 o'clock as pictured.



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