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If you're seeing that water on the drywall on the other side of the wall opposite where the tile is then your shower was not installed with a proper membrane. You need a waterproof memberane and a suitable substrate for the shower. This would be something like kerdi and/or a tile backerboard painted with redgard. You cannot use drywall to back it, nor can ...


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The next step is to snake the drain with a plumbing snake: Or to call a plumber.


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Simple (and cheap) method would be to install the mixing valve set of your choice for the wall with the shower head and install two simple control valves upstream of the mixing valve unit, one for hot and one for cold. You could leave the mixer set at the temperature and flow rate that you normally use, the upstream valves would basically be remote shut-offs ...


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It's the soap scum and body oils that I'd be worried about. Residues could affect the how the tile bonds to the wall. Put up some plastic sheeting over the wallboard for the week.


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Given that you have a pan that is finished and given that your walls have either a membrane or a painted on membrane that is waterproof you could very lightly use the shower. I would never endorse this if I was doing the job but if you are doing it yourself, then go ahead. Make the showers short/light and make sure that it is bone dry before tiling. (This ...


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It sounds like what you really need is a remote controlled shower valve and temperature controller. Most major manufacturers are offering these now including the likes of Kohler, Moen and others. These give you remote digital control of your shower including temperature, timer mode, warm up mode and flow rate control. If you're not prepared for the ...


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Sure I think you could do this. You'd need another set of supply lines at the other side, and a second valve. You'd then run the pipe for the shower head to the other side of the shower and T it in with the other shower head pipe. The only downside I can think of is the cost - a good thermostatic valve is expensive!


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Model the water heater as a continuously stirred tank reactor (CSTR), so it is always at a uniform temperature. Assume the recovery time is not dependent on temperature and completely accounts for insulation losses and the like. Neglect losses in pipes and assume the operator controls the shower temperature to 105°F perfectly. Taking the stopping criterion ...


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Since the plumbing is new, the mixer probably has a shower scald guard in it to prevent the knob from rotating all the way to the left (hot). Adjusting that should in theory allow you to make the shower hotter.


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If they've already checked everything outside your unit, then the next thing to check is the mixing valve in your shower. Especially since your sink water gets hot enough.


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To oversimplify things, a shower control has two parts: the fixed part attached to the pipes in the wall, and everything else (which is usually the cartridge and possibly some O-rings if they are separate). If you've replaced "everything else", then the problem is the fixed part in the wall.


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This should not be a problem. Just make sure to leave the cavity open long enough to let the wet spots dry out.


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Tile setters use an abrasive called a "rub stone", but you could probably use a sanding block. After making it as flat as you can, apply a layer of thin-set mortar. Before doing this, read up on techniques for using thin-set.



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