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1

I would have no concern building this with the right fasteners. There are plenty of really nice, self-tapping, nearly indestructible construction screws to be had (random example). The key joints are at the back of the shelf, where the vast majority of the torsional stress occurs. Use whatever decorative fasteners you like at the front. Put two 4" ...


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Decking/framing screws have breaking point that I wouldn't trust for this, and if that is drywall behind the shelf, then it can crush. If you could cut through the drywall (if it is drywall) then you could mount directly to the wall studs. 1/4" lag screws should be sturdy enough for a person to stand on it (or maybe not, but it will be strong). You should ...


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My take is that the sheer thickness of the shelves that you propose will look heavy and chunky to the point of being unattractive. I would also have concerns about the overall sturdiness of a shelf that is cantilevered off a single 2x4 screwed to the wall. If it were me I would go for a thinner style of assembly and use vertical end sides on the shelves.


2

Use the silicone, contrary to some ideas expressed it does stick well to clean smooth surfaces. So well, in fact, that mechanical scraping is often the only way to remove it once cured (actually there are some chemicals, like dimethyl adipate, that soften cured silicone). If the brackets are securely mounted to the wall, silicone will grip like hell and ...


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Soapstone is easily worked. I'd drill holes (not all the way through) and tap them with an ordinary tap, (or even a modified screw - soapstone is really easily worked) and use machine screws or stove bolts to fasten the shelf to the brackets. To make a crude tap from a screw, grind the threads off the end and grind slots. Look at a regular tap for guidance. ...


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Silicone is not a particularly good choice for your application, since, one, it's soft (when fully cured, has the consistency of rubber), two, it does not actually stick to surfaces. (And yes, it releases some acetic acid while curing, but in minor quantities, it's a one time thing, and a few drops of acetic acid aka vinegar won't eat a hole through your ...


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I would use a Polyurethane Construction Adhesive to attach the stone to the brackets. I would also install the brackets so that there is a 1 inch space between the top of the radiator and the bottom of the stone shelf. This would help reduce the heat transfer to the stone, limiting any stress due to thermal expansion of the stone.


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I don't have enough reputation here to insert a comment, but I just want to say that the radiator will not work properly then. With radiators the heat spread mainly using convective transfer: the heat go up and you are blocking it with the stone.



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