New answers tagged shelving
3
As a variation of this answer you can use any of these (can be found in your local hardware store):
They are attached to the back of the shelf somewhere where the material is thick and strong enough. You have to make a cavity under the lamp-shaped hole so there's room for the screw head - the cavity can be drilled, routed or cut with a chisel, whatever is ...
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I recently had to do something very similar (using a door as a headboard, mounted to the wall). I ended up using these nifty little flush hooks.
They will leave your shelf 2-3 mm away from the wall, but if you have a router, you can rout a recess to mount the hooks in the back of yourself, which will make it completely flush.
They take pretty small ...
7
If the shelf is thick and deep enough, you could use a "concealed floating support bracket". I purchased some from eBay here. My picture of it below.
This particular one needs a 12mm diameter hole drilled in the shelf, about 100mm deep, to accept the long supporting pin. You'd also need to cut out some of the back of the shelf to embed the mounting ...
2
I know you didn't ask for screws, but they do tend to be the most practical solution. For some potential options using screws:
screw it along the top of the back just under the shelf, then tack up a bit of molding there to cover the screws.
Make the screws a decorative element. I've used 'countersink washers' for this before:
For future use, attach the ...
2
I'd first check the flatness of the wall over then length of the shelf by holding the shelf against the wall, in place. You may have some high spots where the studs are bowed out. Anyway ...
I'd consider hanging it with right-angle screw hooks and screw eyes (images below) ...
1) Screw eyes in the horizontal shelf-support member of the assembly
2) Right ...
12
You could use a keyhole router bit to cut keyhole slots in the back to hang it.
Another option would be to use a french cleat. Either buy a metal one that could attach to the back of the shelf or integrate one into the wood back. Here is a discussion of french cleat techniques.
3
Pivot hinges would be an economical solution for good weight bearing. You have to provide a solid top pivot point.
This Stanley has 150 lbs capacity. There are many others of this type, ranging up to 1000 lbs.
Used by all secret bookcase doors.
1
Plywood will not sag over time if you intend to use it for the door faces. I recommend birch plywood for not only its hardness but looks. However your hinges and what they are attached to are the big concern in this project. It looks like you've used a low grade pine to build the unit. This is a soft wood and a couple of cabinet hinges screwed into this are ...
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I think plywood would make a good backing for the doors. I would use something with better quality though and not 1/8 " thin junk or "masonite" type products. My take would be to use two layers of 1/4 inch material. One layer can be screwed through the face into the shelves to make a very sturdy structure. The other can then be glued to the first with the ...
1
I don't think splitting the doors vertically will make any difference: you'll be cutting the load in half, but also cutting in half the amount of support and the number of hinges. I wouldn't bother.
By the way, you should be careful about the balance of the shelf. If sounds like you're going to be filling the door shelves with DVDs just like the main ...
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I'm curious to know how much a door full of DVDs would weight. I calculate about 60lbs for 9 shelves with 15" inches of DVDs per shelf, 2 DVDs per inch, and .21 lbs per DVD (3.2 oz). And then the weight of door+shelving itself.
There are no cabinet hinges of any design that I know of that will carry that weight. Even half that total weight, say 30lbs DVD ...
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Ply is good in shear, helping the door from racking.
I would use euro style hinges, meant for frameless cabinets. They will transfer the door weight better than simple butt hinges. They also have 3 way adjustments for compensating for sagging over time. Just be sure to start out with a good gap and room for the hinge to adjust up.
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99% sure no one makes a shelf that slides up or down. That would be a custom job from the mind of a master carpenter/engineer. Google "flipper door cabinet". I used to have one of these at my old office and the door is similar to a garage door. It would probably need to be customized because most are only 12" deep. If get the hardware you can just make one ...
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