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16

I'd try a few of these keyhole mounting plates: You'd need to be very precise with screw placement so everything lines up properly. If you're feeling adventurous, you could chisel or route out a recess so the whole thing is flush against the wall. You could also mount the plates to the wall at a stud, using sufficiently long screws, and then use smaller ...


13

You might consider mounts like z-clips These are listed as 1 7/8 inches high overall, but you might be able to trim the height (a little off the top piece, a little off the bottom) to just a bit less than the thickness of a 2x4, recess them into the back of the piece, leaving a small lip of wood at the top to conceal the mount (the bottom would have to be ...


9

I installed big, heavy floating shelves in my house. The shelves are simple 2x10's purchased from a hardware store. They are pretty heavy and I knew there would be a lot of torque on any fastener I used. To hang them, I used 5/16ths threaded rods purchased from Home Depot. I cut them to about 7-8 inches long. Using a 1/4in drill bit, I drilled 4 holes into ...


7

You could create a mounting strip using a dovetail router bit. Route out a dovetail slot along the backside of the long 2x4's. Top and bottom if you want, or just the top. (Bottom half of picture.) Create the mounting strip. (Top half of picture.) Pre-drill holes in the mounting strip to line up with the studs in your wall. Mount the strip on the wall. ...


7

Gently hammer up on the bottom, right next to the rail. They jam in place, especially if heavily loaded, and sometimes need persuasion to come loose again. Several light taps will be less likely to go wrong than pounding as hard as you can. Some (not all) will also respond to lifting up on the outermost end. Don't overdo that, or you'll bend them, ...


6

I find all the above answers to be quite good, but each is too busy for my tastes ... too many pieces, specialty hardware etc ... My solution would be to ... locate the studs drive 2.5" nails into the studs such that they angle upwards have 1" exposed I'd use either of these 8d or 10d nails: box nails, and a pair of vise-grips or slip-joints to cut ...


6

This appears to be a "sawtooth shelf support" like the one shown in this article.


5

Metro does not seem to sell an appropriate foot leveler. But a common carriage bolt will fit just fine. The rounded head compensates for the slope far better than the flat factory foot, and you can file the raised numbers off easily: Or find a 3/8" 16 pitch "Combination Leg Equalizer" such as the Rockler #24315, which will spread the load more evenly: ...


4

Put the leg that best matches your shelf width under the shelf. That is why there's different leg sizes. The bracket's critical section is the inner corner, it is equally strong in both directions. That said, usually the critical portion of the entire assembly is the withdrawal of the upper wall screw. Having the long leg against the wall somewhat reduces ...


4

You COULD do that, [the adjusters-things you want are called turnbuckles] but it might be a lot simpler (no holes in the ceiling) to use better and larger shelf brackets. Better, in having a brace that makes them a triangle. Larger, making a larger, more stable triangle. A pair of good heavy duty brackets in a large size will make a shelf that you can sit on ...


3

A 2 piece shelf is a good plan, but my scheme differs from yours from there. Yours would work, but mine's better (IMO). Instead of plywood, I would use MDF. It's dimensionally stable, easy to work, and paints up very nicely with a very smooth surface. I would cut a circular hole to fit the duct closely so small things don't fall into the void below. ...


3

Depending how you make your joints, if you choose to use screws, they need to go into the joining piece at least 3/4"-1" deep, and deeper when going into the end of a piece, 1 1/2" is a good depth, For this you can use a 2" screw, countersunk a little. The drawing below, may have a little more info than what you are looking for, but it will give you options ...


3

The metric (4 or 5mm) holes can be redrilled to hold the 1/4" shelf spoons. If that does not do it, there are metal sockets for the 1/4" spoons that take a slightly larger hole, then they can be driven into place to hold the larger spoon. If the spoons or clips already have a 1/4" hole, then you may be better off retro fitting a shelf track system. Third ...


3

Safe loads are determined through engineering and experimentation. The experimentation is used to gather real-world data, which then is used as input to engineering processes, which then result in guidelines and building codes. This is all updated over time as new materials are introduced and new experience is gained. When there's a situation that is ...


2

I found a matching image at http://www.furnitureinfashion.net/beech-home-wall-shelves-lasse-p-6628.html?osCsid=cf4c725a6d1c4b00d50adca495f827d3 which has dimensions of W85cm x D16cm x H47.5cm. As to building it, I've built several like it over the years, and believe it really is up to you. What I mean is you can take this basic design and modify the ...


2

You could try these heavy-duty mounting squares They're rated for up to 1 lb. According to the specs, your switch weighs 0.6 lbs. It will fall every time someone trips over a cord, but that is preferable to the whole shelf coming down like with a screw or zip-tie.


2

The best rugged shelving that I've used in the basement and garage is called "rivet lock" shelving. This type is quite sturdy, has adjustable shelves and can be easily disassembled and moved. When you go to search out this type make sure to get genuine rivet lock shelving. There are cheaper shelves that try to imitate the rivet lock type but are flimsy and ...


2

You're better off either cutting them flush or pulling the clips out with pliers and patching the holes. A few years ago I repainted my closets and pantry, and decided it was easier to just uninstall EVERYTHING and start over. I had these anchors, which were pretty much impossible to remove without destroying: The anchors you have are also single-use. If ...


2

Leave it in place, use masking tape, paint around it....


2

The room you're in has some nice crown moulding and probably is a nicely finished room - it's a shame (IMHO) to put in some crappy looking shelf brackets. Just to throw out an alternative suggestion, why not use a product meant for exactly this purpose? There are wall and ceiling mounts for projectors, and look around online and you'll find these starting ...


2

As a newbie, I'd do it like this: Get 4 pine boards and screw them together into a nice shelf sized rectangle. Nail a piece of 1/8" fibreboard or plywood to the back to stabilize the shape. Get more boards for the individual shelves. (these'll have to be cut about 1/2" shorter than the inside of the case's rectangle to accomodate hardware described below) ...


1

I think you can use toggle bolts based on my experience with them and on the ratings given here: http://www.powers.com/pdfs/plastic/togglebolt.pdf.


1

You could also drill out a much larger hole (3/4" seems good to me) and glue in a wooden (non-particle board) plug. After the glue is dried, drill the proper size hole in the plug.


1

Walls aren't made out of solid plaster. Plaster is merely a coating. If its hard and 'crumbling' all the way through, my guess is it's a masonry block (or brick) wall coated in plaster. Knowing what region of the world you live in may help us narrow down the potential building technique for you. If it is masonry, there are two things you need to do: 1) ...


1

Those look like the Closetmaid ones. If you just remove the nail you can gently pull the plastic out. Me I would just paint over them if it's just a closet.


1

you can hang a small board between (and hanging of) the posts of the shelf and hang the switch on that you only need 2 hooks which go in the slots of the posts


1

I am having the same problem! Small kitchen and I've been searching for the very same thing. This is the closest to what I'm looking for I have found (only holds about 20lbs, I think my microwave is heavier). http://www.bes-products.com/microwave.html# http://www.bes-products.com/pdf/microwave.pdf Let me know if you have found anything since you ...


1

Measure each space between shelves carefully. You might even do a template for each. Take it to Lowes and have them cut mirror for you to the correct size. Use mirror adhesive to glue each mirror onto the wall. You may need to do one at a time and shimmy them up to hold until they dry.


1

The manufacturer has a video on their website that demonstrates how to hang their products that incorporate their Wall Grabber technology. pinnacleframe.com -> Products -> Gallery Solutions -> Click to watch video or http://blog.pinnacleframe.com/Pinnacle_Video/GallerySolutions_Pinnacle.mov



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