Hot answers tagged shelving
12
You could use a keyhole router bit to cut keyhole slots in the back to hang it.
Another option would be to use a french cleat. Either buy a metal one that could attach to the back of the shelf or integrate one into the wood back. Here is a discussion of french cleat techniques.
7
Shelf construction
If the shelf has its front open edge positioned such that at each four feet the cable would go up to a separate roof truss than I think that you have a workable system. Make sure that your 2x3's under the outer shelf edges are placed to that the nominal "3" inch dimension is vertical.
Hardware
Note that the lowest cost eyebolts, known ...
7
Depending upon how large the grout lines are I would carefully drill through those with a masonry bit, and then use plastic anchors and fasten shelf brackets with screws. Use enough brackets to support the size shelf you need. Then, if the shelf ever needs to come down the holes in the grout lines can be repaired easily.
7
If the shelf is thick and deep enough, you could use a "concealed floating support bracket". I purchased some from eBay here. My picture of it below.
This particular one needs a 12mm diameter hole drilled in the shelf, about 100mm deep, to accept the long supporting pin. You'd also need to cut out some of the back of the shelf to embed the mounting ...
6
55 inches is a rather long span for a 12 inch wide shelf that is supported on the ends and back side by the wall. One way that you could provide some more support for the shelves would be to add some center front supports for the shelves working up from the floor to the top shelf.
5
A wooden shelf that is cantilevered 3 inches or so out from the end of a bracket will probably survive some load. But stack too much of a load on it (a pantry, canned food is heavy!) and even wood will crack. Particle board is very likely to fail of course as it has very little real strength.
A shorter bracket will often be designed for a smaller load. ...
4
Don't use brackets. use two by threes to make shelves of the size you want. frame with them edge up and screw 1/2' or 3/4" plywood on top. bolt the back edge into every stud. every five or six feet on the edge furthest from the wall bolt in another 2 by three that is oriented vertically and goes all the way to the floor. I support a very large amount of ...
4
Ply is good in shear, helping the door from racking.
I would use euro style hinges, meant for frameless cabinets. They will transfer the door weight better than simple butt hinges. They also have 3 way adjustments for compensating for sagging over time. Just be sure to start out with a good gap and room for the hinge to adjust up.
4
I recently had to do something very similar (using a door as a headboard, mounted to the wall). I ended up using these nifty little flush hooks.
They will leave your shelf 2-3 mm away from the wall, but if you have a router, you can rout a recess to mount the hooks in the back of yourself, which will make it completely flush.
They take pretty small ...
3
Pivot hinges would be an economical solution for good weight bearing. You have to provide a solid top pivot point.
This Stanley has 150 lbs capacity. There are many others of this type, ranging up to 1000 lbs.
Used by all secret bookcase doors.
3
You could truss the tubes as shown in the picture below. The center block helps to support the tube when the truss member is placed in tension.
The truss could be constructed from heavy wire or threaded steel rod. The concept here would be similar to the scheme used on the wider steps of a wooden step ladder.
I would have suggested the possibility to ...
3
Since you are contemplating shelving, I am going to assume that
you want to store more stuff in a given square footage than you can without shelving, and
that you want to be able to access that stuff randomly, that is, without removing items piled upon the item that you want.
What is the Maximum Weight I will be Storing?
I've got a shelving unit in a ...
3
Find an opening in the wall. Start with the easy ones, telephone and cable wiring. Other options are under the sink were plumbing lines come through. Utility rooms are another good place to look. And finally, you can try checking under the insulation in the attic.
Typical drywall will be two layers of paper and a white plaster in the middle and is often ...
3
If the shelf you're putting up is a solid wood shelf and not particle board, an 11" bracket will be fine (assuming it's a metal bracket). Certainly it's not ideal, but I don't know what you have for hardware stores in Israel. The grain of the wood will be perpendicular to the brackets, which would give you a chance to break the wood out at the end, but how ...
3
The product you are looking for are brackets for what is called "standards". They come in many different sizes. Ikea likes to put fancy names on things so they can charge more. Just goto your local home improvement store/hardware store and tell the person there that you are looking for brackets to fit standards.
3
As a variation of this answer you can use any of these (can be found in your local hardware store):
They are attached to the back of the shelf somewhere where the material is thick and strong enough. You have to make a cavity under the lamp-shaped hole so there's room for the screw head - the cavity can be drilled, routed or cut with a chisel, whatever is ...
2
There are basically two things you have to determine - what is the supporting structure and what is the surface material.
First the support - in most private homes this is commonly wood frame, such as two by fours (boards, called studs, nominally 2 inches wide by 4 inches thick, but actually about 1.5 inches by 3.5 inches). These run floor to ceiling and ...
2
I had a pastor who did missionary work in Africa for many years, and he really took minimalism to heart. He simply used wooden planks over cinder blocks, stacked and spaced as needed.
It was surprisingly effective and I, personally, thought it looks really good in a "modern industrial" sort of way.
2
The following might be helpful - doesn't address all your needs, and depends on having a wall with 2x4 wooden studs inside rather than your concrete block, but some ideas may apply.
I just finished a project similar to this. In my garage I wanted cheap, strong shelving, 16" deep with a minimum of support structure, for storage of heavily loaded 12 gallon ...
2
If your brick is solid and does not seem to be crumbly (like in +100 year old house) then I would always suggest and even my self use and Anchor bolt - In some countries called a robolt - These are on of the best load and pull rated bolts. And I always try to use these bolts because you can never be sure about who will put what on a shelf. Using these bolts ...
2
Other important factors are how thick the shelving is, and what the shelf to shelf vertical spacing is, and how the back edge is attached, if at all, to the support. Assuming typical home improvement store shelving and common 12" to 16" vertical spacing, and simple nail attachment, the shelving is structurally adequate (meaning it will not actually ...
2
You may not have a choice if the shelf locks in by sliding forward. If that's the case, you mount to the shelf first and then hang it on the wall. Otherwise, the wall blocks you from installing the shelf. And even if it's not necessary, you may want to do it that way to get the shelf tight to the wall. Mount the brackets 1/8" or less from the back of the ...
2
If you can't use the truss technique described by @michaelkaras, the only real solution would be to move to thicker-walled tubing or larger diameter tubing.
Anything you fill the tube with is not likely to make much of a difference at all. All the bending strength of the tubular member comes from its topmost and bottommost elements. The center of the tube ...
2
Yes - It does sound feasible. A few things I would consider for cutting off the lag bolt heads.
1) Install the bolts first into the wall studs so you can utilize the heads for screwing in the bolts. Do not make the common mistake of forgetting to pre-drill a proper sized pilot hole for the lag bolt threads into the stud.
2) Use a reciprocating type saw ...
2
I'm curious to know how much a door full of DVDs would weight. I calculate about 60lbs for 9 shelves with 15" inches of DVDs per shelf, 2 DVDs per inch, and .21 lbs per DVD (3.2 oz). And then the weight of door+shelving itself.
There are no cabinet hinges of any design that I know of that will carry that weight. Even half that total weight, say 30lbs DVD ...
2
I'd first check the flatness of the wall over then length of the shelf by holding the shelf against the wall, in place. You may have some high spots where the studs are bowed out. Anyway ...
I'd consider hanging it with right-angle screw hooks and screw eyes (images below) ...
1) Screw eyes in the horizontal shelf-support member of the assembly
2) Right ...
2
I think plywood would make a good backing for the doors. I would use something with better quality though and not 1/8 " thin junk or "masonite" type products. My take would be to use two layers of 1/4 inch material. One layer can be screwed through the face into the shelves to make a very sturdy structure. The other can then be glued to the first with the ...
2
I know you didn't ask for screws, but they do tend to be the most practical solution. For some potential options using screws:
screw it along the top of the back just under the shelf, then tack up a bit of molding there to cover the screws.
Make the screws a decorative element. I've used 'countersink washers' for this before:
For future use, attach the ...
1
Plywood will not sag over time if you intend to use it for the door faces. I recommend birch plywood for not only its hardness but looks. However your hinges and what they are attached to are the big concern in this project. It looks like you've used a low grade pine to build the unit. This is a soft wood and a couple of cabinet hinges screwed into this are ...
1
I don't think splitting the doors vertically will make any difference: you'll be cutting the load in half, but also cutting in half the amount of support and the number of hinges. I wouldn't bother.
By the way, you should be careful about the balance of the shelf. If sounds like you're going to be filling the door shelves with DVDs just like the main ...
Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible
