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4

If you buy the pipe at Home Depot, they custom cut it (and thread it) for free. You have to buy the pipe, and there is a fairly flexible policy that they will make up to three cuts per 10 foot length, but if you catch them an hour before closing or when it is not otherwise busy, they are very accommodating.


3

Unscrew the rollers on both sides. Lower the door so it's parallel to the back. Push one end back into the cabinet until the pin is free of the side slot - or start with the door at the back, and pull one end forward until it's free of the side slot (and then keep pulling forward to remove from the case.) Replacement should be the reverse of removal.


3

Unfortunately the MDF board is too thin for true "invisible shelves" I really hate those fittings, they just seem so un-secure! You cannot raise the connector, since the board is too thing. but what you could do, is run a beading across the bottom edge. Thats about all I could think of. that would also help with the secure-ness of the fitting since the ...


3

The ease of cutting will come down to the following: The pipe schedule (thickness of the pipe wall) The diameter of the pipe The cutting tool to be used Assuming that the pipe schedule is sch 40 or less and the diameter is 2" or less (larger diameters can limit the cutting tool selection and the increases the effort required to obtain a true parallel ...


3

I'd look at a running some braces from underneath the front of the bench back to the wall at a 45 degree angle or so. That will hold a lot of weight.


2

Plastic plug in a hole, I've always found drilling into it with a bit slightly smaller and stopping the drill, then pulling it straight out works dandy. If not, it gives to a place to try using a screw (and a nailpuller on the screw if it's REALLY stubborn) more easily. Then look for metal replacement brackets in the correct size for your bookshelf so it ...


2

Assuming you mean a standard #8 wood screw, and a standard office, not much. A 2 inch drywall screw will hold even less. The first half inch of most screws are tapered and thus don't add much to it's strength. Then you need to subtract the thickness of the bracket and the drywall. So now we have a whole one inch actually used for support. Enough to keep ...


2

I'm not really sure what you're describing, but have you considered the originals may be metric (9mm, maybe). Furthermore, if you're thinking of using dowels, you should be able to either: 1) Get the next size up and sand down by hand with rough sand pape until you're able to jam it in, or 2) Drill a slightly larger hole in a size you can match, or 3) ...


2

I did this once when I lived in an apartment and could not modify anything. Since I had metal working and welding experience, I created a steel frame using 1 inch angle steel. Basically, it was a 'table' that stood inside the closet and it's dimensions where precisely the inside dimensions of the closet; ie; the legs were flush against the walls of the ...


2

If you can avoid floating, I suggest you do. It's inherently weak. (And sooner or later, someone's probably going to try chinups or an entire Encyclopedia Britannica on your work.) If you gotta, Rockler sells these blind shelf supports: http://www.rockler.com/blind-shelf-supports. Hope you're in the US, or shipping/customs might be tough. (My review on ...


1

If you're sagging in the longitudinal direction, support lengthwise. If you can brace or support the entire length of the shelf, you can avoid a lot of the sagging. Sometimes even so much as adding a font lip will go a long way to making the shelves sturdier. Even a 1/2" x 1" strip, fastened with glue and countersunk wood screws will go a long way. If even ...


1

I've wondered this before, too. Honestly I wouldn't trust a horizontal tension rod shelf unless you're putting lightweight, and not breakable, things on it. I know you're renting, but you could install shelves with braces and then just patch the holes when you leave, assuming you can find similar paint. Another alternative is just something like ...


1

Thete are several kinds of supports sold specifically for this purpose, plus the option of using fairly standard triangular brackets upside down and arranging the shelf's contents to hide them.


1

Wall studs should be every 16". If you measure from the start of the wall where the pipes are, you should be able to hit a stud every 16" behind the backing board. I'm not sure what the pipes are that you have in your kitchen - venting maybe, but I would look for shelves that would be supported via studs through the backing board wall instead of trying to ...


1

You mentioned you are not much of a DIYer but you might be able to apply the following. This will be an abbreviated version of a French cleat, which you can google. The cleat instead of being on the horizontal pieces would be on the vertical sides. This process would extend the shelf out from the wall by a CM, but because you would be putting the extra ...


1

If you use long enough lags to get a good bite into the stud, your first proposed method should be fine. If the "lever" action is high enough to snap a lag bolt, then it will be strong enough to snap the 2x3 as well. From a strength perspective, it doesn't matter how long the lag bolt is - the torque and shear at the junction of the wall/bracket interface ...


1

In the US and Canada, the standard reference for the industry is Architectural Woodwork Standards produced by the Architectural Woodwork Institute.


1

Disagree, aquariums do not hold most of their weight under the corners. The weight is almost uniformly distributed on portions that are in contact with the supporting surface. If it is an acrylic tank with no frame, then all that weight is distributed across the whole bottom surface (assuming it is resting on a shelf like you illustrate). If it is a glass ...


1

For that much weight, I would try to drill into the studs. You can find them using a studfinder, or sometimes knocking and listening for the change in pitch will be enough. If in doubt, find several, and assume they are evenly spaced. Make sure the drilled holes and screws are long enough to penetrate well into the stud, say at least 2 inches. Of course, to ...


1

The best way to handle this situation is to span two studs at the end of the closet with a smallish plank, screwing it into both studs. Then you can screw the rod end mount to that plank and rest assured that it's as sturdy as you can get it. The "far" end of that plank will very probably screw to the stud at the far rear corner of the closet's end wall, ...


1

I see no benefit to cutting a section out of the wall before patching it up. You don't say how old your house is, but in the houses I've lived in that are nearing 100 years or so, the plaster can weaken to the point you can pull it apart with your fingers if you damage the surface somewhere. If that is indeed a coat of plaster/insulation on top of the ...


1

I am having the same problem! Small kitchen and I've been searching for the very same thing. This is the closest to what I'm looking for I have found (only holds about 20lbs, I think my microwave is heavier). http://www.bes-products.com/microwave.html# http://www.bes-products.com/pdf/microwave.pdf Let me know if you have found anything since you ...


1

I think you can use toggle bolts based on my experience with them and on the ratings given here: http://www.powers.com/pdfs/plastic/togglebolt.pdf.


1

Measure each space between shelves carefully. You might even do a template for each. Take it to Lowes and have them cut mirror for you to the correct size. Use mirror adhesive to glue each mirror onto the wall. You may need to do one at a time and shimmy them up to hold until they dry.


1

Why don't you use a standard sized and threaded pipe for your shelves? Sizes range from 1" to 8'(foot) in lengths and 1/2" to 3" in half inch increments on the widths, in stock and on the shelves at Home D or just about any DIY Big Box Store. This way you could create whatever you like and probably wind up within an inch or so of wherever you want it to ...



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