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5

Firewood needs to dry out. It won't dry out in a sealed shed nearly as fast and completely as it would in an open-air setup. Worry about moisture in the air 'getting back in' to the wood isn't really much of a concern. It's not atmospheric moisture but the moisture that's in the wood initially that's the concern. If you completely season your wood ...


4

A locksmith can order (if necessary) and set up padlocks or locking hasps that respond to your house key, unless the house lock is using a particularly uncommon key blank. They may be a bit larger than the ones designed to be sold in bulk, and they will probably be a bit more expensive, but the price shouldn't be unreasonable.


4

It looks like your building has studs. The best way to insulate between those studs is low-cost batt insulation, either fiberglass or mineral wool. If you want to use polystyrene foam sheets (like the EPS foam you're showing) the easiest and most cost-effective way to do it is to lay it across the studs, not between them. Use the cheap batts between the ...


4

Assuming that the walls are standard wood construction, with dimensional lumber, pulling out the door and putting in a standard entry door is fairly straightforward. First take out the rolling door. It's best to do this in the reverse order that it was put in. Carefully remove / release the tension on any springs or lift assists that may be in place. If the ...


3

(1) The fan as shown in the photo is upside down. Mounted in this position, the weight of the fan will pull the plate away from the beam. Turn it over so the weight will push the plate against the beam. (2) The beam will hold the fan but the weight will apply a twisting force to the beam. To overcome this, you should mount a board vertically from the beam ...


3

Won't be airtight anyway, and if you are buying dry wood (that is) it won't matter if it somehow manages to approximate airtight. Ventilation is for actively drying.


2

If you'd like to minimize use of concrete, don't use any. I have 4 sheds that have been sitting for 14 years on sections of pressure treated wood, set on top of the ground - and a 5th that's on 4 pressure treated wood posts set into the ground. No concrete at all. Wooden floors (not pressure treated - only the ground-contact wood is PT.) Nice and dry.


2

Get Local Building Dept. approval, they'll direct you on this as well. But, 4" of tamped sand only works if it's retained, it washes away. Tamped 3/4" jagged gravel at 4" deep is the best choice. The bigger issue is tying the building down from wind loft. This is where a concrete filled cinderblock & poured concrete foundation may be required. Don't mess ...


2

Almost any door should be hung plumb on both axes, level, and square. Not doing so results in undesirable movement due to gravity along with other adverse functional issues. In this case, I'd hang the door roughly centered in the opening using shims, then I'd apply casing on the outside to cover the uneven gaps. Optionally case the inside as well. I'd then ...


2

Yes, the poured, floated & sealed afterward slab is the best way to go, if you're up to it, & it's the best anchor. Definitely do at least a 4-inch bed of gravel under everything, this is what moves instead of a slab or blocks or pads. However, absolutely consult your Building Dept. first & foremost. They have plans for their requirements & ...


2

Sorry, qtron. You really should've mentioned you were using this shed as a workshop or something & trying to cool it. I realize you might say "why would I have insulated it otherwise". We have no way of knowing unless you say, we see many weird actions taken by people. Cooling changes everything! In that case, you have the foil of the adequate ...


1

Solar load (which heats the building to 95 on a 68 degree day) is a real problem. Insulation will make things better, not worse. The #1 thing you can do is paint the roof white. Yes, I know that's hard and weird, but it really does work. Soffit and roof vents, obviously, make it a lot harder to heat a shed. Maybe the architect was concerned with ...


1

you can just replace your house lock or locks with weiser smartkey units, and then buy a weiser smart keyed padlock. i have six smartkey locks on the doors in my home, and a dozen or so padlocks. all can be operated with a single key. and, as a bonus, you can rekey your locks yourself in about 30 seconds.


1

The wood framing member looks to be similar to a 2 x 4 (inch) commonly used here in the States as wall studs and such. From what is obvious from the photo that leads me to believe it will support the almost 50 pound fan is the wood top plate is on edge rather than oriented on its' face (flat). The wood plate is much stronger in this direction and can with ...



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