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5

The verbiage of the laws is very important. After some research, I think I've found what you're referring to. Outbuildings are considered to be permitted development, not needing planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions: Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum ...


4

You'll need to check your local codes. In the US, most building code sections begin with a list of definitions, and I assume it's the same elsewhere. If the difference between a shed and a garage is legally significant then they probably define it. It could be based on size, intended use, access to utilities, proximity to other buildings, access to a ...


3

Safe loads are determined through engineering and experimentation. The experimentation is used to gather real-world data, which then is used as input to engineering processes, which then result in guidelines and building codes. This is all updated over time as new materials are introduced and new experience is gained. When there's a situation that is ...


3

The roof loading transmits straight down, so the shorter wall and the taller wall will be bearing exactly the same roof load. Shed roofs can leave the structure a bit more prone to racking, which is basically the tendency of a square to deform into a trapezoid: You'll be fine if you do a couple of things. First, sheath the walls with 4' x 8' sheet ...


3

You have electrical in your shed. Before doing anything that branch needs to be terminated correctly. I don't think there is a pure art to the small demo. I personally would slice the front wall beams halfway up with whatever saw I thought would be the quickest and then sledge hammer from the corners. Roof should fall/slide down. Then I would just ...


2

Pressure treated wood should be dried out before painting. 3 monthes - a year depending on climate. I would go with a good primer first before painting. Use floor paint for floor or just go with a solid stain.


2

Easy water does not lower hardness. It is some wires you wrap around the pipes that cost $1500 and "magnetize" the limestone so it "will not stick to you pipes and fixtures as much". Look it up under scams, fraud etc...


2

Do you have sufficient variance between the house and your property line to allow for the addition of this shed there? Is there a zoning or housing code you need to check? Are you getting a permit for this? Most parts of the country require a building permit for anything that attaches to the residence. Having it permitted protects your future resale ...


2

Although the modern trend is fast stuffing more & more lumber in the wall, walls framed with 2x4s on 24" centers will support nearly any sort of roof load you're likely to ever see - especially if you don't live in a far northern climate. I've seen 2nd-floor hot tubs with far less support than that. You do have to be pretty careful laying out the studs; ...


2

I would advertise "Free Shed" on Craigslist. I had a tree house I constructed for my grand kids, and when they outgrew it that's what I did. Some folks came out one Saturday, disassembled it, and took it away. They did the whole job. I just got to watch.


1

I think: No, it is not a good idea. You can expect all the difficulties of renovation, new construction, and building relocation, combined. Perhaps also conflicts with land use regulations as well. Without tying the roof to the adjacent structure, expect water damage to both the shed and the home. Support for the shed should be suitable for the soil and ...


1

Sticking to item 1 : what difficulties might you expect: Practically speaking, cutting it in half and moving it will be a problem (or a "challenge" as the folk who like to pretend that problems don't exist like to euphemize.) Moving a shed is awkward enough when it's a complete structure. Once you cut it in half you'll lose a good deal of what structure it ...


1

First, sort out the electrical and be triply certain it's disconnected but good. Then, place an ad for "free shed, you remove" Then place an ad for "free fill - unwanted Concrete slab, you break it up and take it away." Only if those fail do you need to worry about removing it yourself. Sucks to be Blake + Steve - not even two years use (it doesn't look ...


1

Personally, I would dig the topsoil out from under the blocks—preferably down to mineral soil so that almost all of the concrete is buried. This makes less of a step up for wheeled equipment and less space for critters and weeds to grow underneath. I put mine very close to the ground on concrete blocks with slots for 2 inch wide lumber and concrete ...


1

Enough heat is the first need. Insulated sheds get cold inside, moisture condenses. Water can even freeze. As my boss found out with his boat. Insulation just means that cold nights make the interior get progressively colder and not get any thermal gain during the daytime, unless your floor has surface area that transmits enough ground heat. And if you ...


1

To resist wind forces, you don't necessarily need footings below frost line, but you do need a substantial mass to resist the overturning forces from wind. Buried footings work well because the the wind must also pick up a substantial amount of earth in addition to the foundation weight. The deeper the footing, the more earth being picked up, so it is a good ...


1

By looking at some mobile home anchoring systems you might be able to adapt something to a smaller scale. They appear similar to the screw in the earth anchors used for dog run tie outs albeit on a larger scale. I would screw in three dog anchors on each side and use a ratcheting cargo strap (available at any auto parts store) to cinch it down. It may take ...



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