Hot answers tagged shed
4
A block wall that is actually part of the original outside wall of the main structure is most certainly a load bearing wall or part of the foundation. It is possible to open a six foot section, but care must be taken to install a properly sized supported header or if block is still going to be above the opening, a steel lentil. You will need some temp ...
3
Gluing won't hurt, but it won't help either (in this application) so I wouldn't bother.
Where gluing does help is when you are doubling a beam by stacking two smaller beams on top of each other. (i.e. 2 2x4's to make a 2x8) Gluing will then help transfer the longitudinal shear stresses that develop when the beam bends slightly. (To visualize this shear, ...
3
Easy: Motion detection lights.
Difficult: Alarm system.
High maintenance: Guard dog.
Anything can be broken into by a determined thief, the idea is to make your place less attractive of a target than the next place.
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Measure the 2 diagonal distances to the corners. If the measurements are not the same, the floor is not square.
Not sure what you are levelling to. A level, framing square, and careful measuring solves most layout problems.
16" spacing is fine as long as your sheathing is rated for 16" spans. Sounds like they are spanning about 6 feet? 16d common nails ...
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Look at a flooring store for sheet vinyl also called linoleum, remnants (the end of rolls). They can be inexpensive and would be seamless. An alternative that would be more slip resistant is something we call locally porchpaint. It covers many New england porches. It is only available in gray and is an oil based enamal. You can spread sand on it while wet ...
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Lifting it (slightly) in place may allow you access to do repairs.
If there is enough solid footing, use (2) 2x10s bolted across the studs (parallel to roof peak). Lift both 2x10s parallel to floor (disconnect all tie downs first) using 4 bottle jacks. Cut 4 2x4 cripples to attach to studs under 2x10 at desired final height (for safety and to backup ...
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I would try construction adhesive before drilling any holes in the wall.
The MSDS for Liquid Nails states that the shear strength is 240 psi (1 week cure), and will withstand -18 to 60 C. Should be more than sufficient.
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It probably depends on how much effort you're going to be putting into it.
If you're just planning on slapping something together quickly, then sure, go for untreated, and if something goes wrong, you can rebuild it in a couple of years.
I'd personally use pressure treated, as I'd have to make a larger structure due to local ordinances. (I can't store ...
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