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13

Spiders are predators, they go where the food is. If spiders are attracted to your shed, it means prey insects are attracted to your shed. Get rid of the prey. Remove nearby vegetation and organic matter that provides food/shelter for bugs Remove any standing water (bird baths, puddles, soil that soaks up moisture) Remove light sources (bugs fly towards ...


11

Take a look at your local Lowe's, Home Depot or even Amazon online book store. They have several books with lots of different designs. You can look them over and just buy the book that suits your needs. They will have diagrams and material lists. Also these books are fairly cheap. Good luck.


10

This should be a good starter project, here are a few tips I've picked up over the years: Even pressure treated wood will deteriorate over time if it's exposed or in direct contact with the ground/moisture. Do what you can to protect it from the elements and get it raised off of the soil. Use a moisture barrier between wood and concrete. Take care to ...


9

The problem here of course is that snow/freezing rain gets into the lock and freezes. With a house, this isn't normally a problem for a few reasons. First, you use it often enough that it doesn't get that bad, and second the inside of the house is warm, which prevents water from freezing inside the lock (unless it gets really, really cold I suppose). You ...


9

I did a quick search for information about chestnuts and spiders and found conflicting advice. My take is that even it doesn't work, it can't hurt; the worst that can happen is that you still have spiders and some (apparently useless) chestnuts on the floor of your shed. Caulking small gaps in the shed walls is a good idea in general, but the biggest gap ...


7

The assembly instructions state: Recommended surfaces for installation include cement or treated wood deck style surfaces. So it should be installed on a level platform of some kind that will support the weight of the shed and its contents. It wouldn't be a good idea just to use level ground as you'll have problems with moisture, rodents etc (as Eric ...


7

I'd use a foundation. It doesn't have to be very deep - it could just be a set of paving stones covering an area slightly larger than the shed itself. If nothing else it will keep the wood away from the ground and reduce the damp and moisture that will attack the shed, thus prolonging it's life. It will also help keep the shed level.


7

This website has quite a few links for free plans. They're a mix of slab plans and elevated floor plans. You'll have to click through several levels down, but here are some direct links to some of the nicer ones: Basic 6'x8' shed plan with cinder block base. (Expandable up to 8'x12'). Larger 8'x12' shed plan with double doors. This site is also listed ...


6

This looks to be an excellent tutorial: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/firm-foundation-backyard-shed.aspx


6

Any place that sells pre-built sheds in your area would likely have advice on site preparation for delivery. I don't know what the soil's like in your area, but if you're going to hit bedrock before 42", it'd likely be easier to put in a slab; If you're likely to hit lots of tree-roots, the slab might be a better choice (so you don't kill a tree, and have ...


5

Because the roof is metal it will get cold and when the (relatively) warm damp air inside the shed comes into contact with it, condensation forms. You need to make sure that there is a thermal barrier between the inside surface of the roof and the outside surface. So any of the things you suggest would do, but might cause ventilation problems (say). So a ...


5

Wood in contact with the ground will always rot. Treated wood will do it slower. Depending on your climate, the shed might rot out in just a couple of years. So yes, you need a foundation, but as @ChrisF notes, it can be simple. Or if you live someplace like Tuscon and drainage is away from the shed, you might be able to get away without it, as the climate ...


5

A block wall that is actually part of the original outside wall of the main structure is most certainly a load bearing wall or part of the foundation. It is possible to open a six foot section, but care must be taken to install a properly sized supported header or if block is still going to be above the opening, a steel lentil. You will need some temp ...


5

For my on grade shed, I first built a bed of crushed limestone for it to rest on. This will allow drainage and breathing room below the shed. I used some landscape timbers and made a "retaining wall" for the limestone just slightly larger than the footprint of the shed (like 2' around each side). I then filled this rectangle landscape timber area with ...


5

I would use some neoprene washers between the exterior bolt head and metal wall. Also put some silicon sealant in the hole/bolt. This will keep water out and stop bolt head from scratching the powder coating and causing rust. Should work fine.


5

The verbiage of the laws is very important. After some research, I think I've found what you're referring to. Outbuildings are considered to be permitted development, not needing planning permission, subject to the following limits and conditions: Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum ...


5

Firewood needs to dry out. It won't dry out in a sealed shed nearly as fast and completely as it would in an open-air setup. Worry about moisture in the air 'getting back in' to the wood isn't really much of a concern. It's not atmospheric moisture but the moisture that's in the wood initially that's the concern. If you completely season your wood ...


4

Safe loads are determined through engineering and experimentation. The experimentation is used to gather real-world data, which then is used as input to engineering processes, which then result in guidelines and building codes. This is all updated over time as new materials are introduced and new experience is gained. When there's a situation that is ...


4

As with any advice you get here, keep in mind that you must stay within the bounds of IRC building codes adopted by your local municipality. Obtain a building permit and a local inspector will give you guidelines on minimum requirements for posts, beam spans, joist spans, etc... Your concrete piers must be a set depth to go below the frost line in your ...


4

You'll need to check your local codes. In the US, most building code sections begin with a list of definitions, and I assume it's the same elsewhere. If the difference between a shed and a garage is legally significant then they probably define it. It could be based on size, intended use, access to utilities, proximity to other buildings, access to a ...


4

Assuming that the walls are standard wood construction, with dimensional lumber, pulling out the door and putting in a standard entry door is fairly straightforward. First take out the rolling door. It's best to do this in the reverse order that it was put in. Carefully remove / release the tension on any springs or lift assists that may be in place. If the ...


3

Use an oil based paint, not latex. You have to coat the entire thing, including the bottom. This will help repel water.


3

Easy: Motion detection lights. Difficult: Alarm system. High maintenance: Guard dog. Anything can be broken into by a determined thief, the idea is to make your place less attractive of a target than the next place.


3

you might be able to avoid this with graphite spray. By better lubricating the lock the water might not have time to collect and freeze in the tumblers.


3

Just lay some tongue-and-groove OSB plywood on top of the planks. For a 6x8 shed, you should only need two 4x8 sheets - which should certainly cost a lot less than the £120 you would pay for sealer. Or for that matter, just have them use T&G plywood for the flooring in the first place.


3

Gluing won't hurt, but it won't help either (in this application) so I wouldn't bother. Where gluing does help is when you are doubling a beam by stacking two smaller beams on top of each other. (i.e. 2 2x4's to make a 2x8) Gluing will then help transfer the longitudinal shear stresses that develop when the beam bends slightly. (To visualize this shear, ...


3

You have electrical in your shed. Before doing anything that branch needs to be terminated correctly. I don't think there is a pure art to the small demo. I personally would slice the front wall beams halfway up with whatever saw I thought would be the quickest and then sledge hammer from the corners. Roof should fall/slide down. Then I would just ...


3

The roof loading transmits straight down, so the shorter wall and the taller wall will be bearing exactly the same roof load. Shed roofs can leave the structure a bit more prone to racking, which is basically the tendency of a square to deform into a trapezoid: You'll be fine if you do a couple of things. First, sheath the walls with 4' x 8' sheet ...


3

Won't be airtight anyway, and if you are buying dry wood (that is) it won't matter if it somehow manages to approximate airtight. Ventilation is for actively drying.



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