Hot answers tagged self-assembly-furniture
Those don't actually screw in. They just press in the hole and then tighten to the connecting bolt attached to the opposing piece of wood. Just loosen the cam so you pull the connecting bolt out. Should be fairly easy. After that, if you still need to get the cam part of the fastener out, it should just fall out. If it doesn't, I just stick a small ...
If the threads are in metal, then you can replace the threads. What you're looking for is called a T-nut and should be available at any hardware store. Take a bolt with you to get the right size. If the threads are in the wood, a simple option is to just take the bolt to a hardware store and buy a bigger bolt. T-nuts are also a good option if a bigger ...
I'd still take it apart, but I understand your reluctance. What you need is "edge banding tape". You should be able to find it online in black. (The big box stores don't usually have a good color selection, but you might get lucky.) Anyway, once you have it, you'll want to iron it onto the edge. (A couple of layers of aluminum foil will keep your iron ...
Wax will help make it easier to insert a screw (especially into wood) but I've never heard of it helping hold a screw. I think what you want in your case is a product known as Thread Lock (Brand name: Loctite). This is essentially a glue that you apply to the threads. If you've ever taken apart something and noticed a blue (usually) substance on the ...
Is beeswax ok to use to keep a screw tight? No, bees wax is a lubricant - it makes it easier, not harder, for screws to be removed.
One website for furniture plans that my wife recently found is ana-white.com. Best thing is, they're free! Each article/blog post has a materials list and instructions. There are quite a few plans for near-duplicates of brand-name furniture makers' products. Here's instructions for a dresser from the website. (I'm not sure exactly what you mean by a ...
As you turn the screw to unscrew it, press on the "point" of the screw to counter the force on the screwdriver trying to push the screw back into the drawer runner. That should allow it to unscrew.
A narrow slab door might fit the bill. 80" is a very common height. Architectural recycling places, such as Habitat For Humanity Restores (if you're in North America) have them for nearly nothing. If you get a hollow core and it's too wide, be aware that it's a bit fiddly to make it work well.
Please post a picture of the item. If you're talking about Nylock style nuts where the element is to prevent the nut from vibrating loose: The metal thread goes on first. If you're talking about a nut with a built in fluid seal, due to its design, a Seal Nut will need to go on with the rubber element on the inside. The rubber must be compressed to ...
These are for a 9x13 Canopy #1083. They may be similar to their many other models. Inside the package, you will find these poles: 4x #1 4x #1b 3x #2 6x #2a 4x #3 4x #3a 4x #4 Connect the #1 & #1b poles together to form 4x4' poles Connect the #2 & #2a poles together to form 3x6'8" poles (2 - 2a - 2) Connect the #3 $ #3a & #4 poles together ...
Assuming you've already received the home gym (and aren't just reading the manual online), why not just take one nut and bolt of each size with you to the hardware store to make sure you're getting the right tool?
So it has a bolt that is 3 1/2" long with a 1/2" head, and a 1/2" nut... You're going to need a 1/2" socket and/or wrench, and/or a couple adjustable spanners. Looks like you're in the UK; so you probably use metric, So you'll need an 1/2" imperial socket and/or wrench, and/or a couple adjustable spanners.
Attaching the bottom of both bookcases to a single flat board will get them aligned right. Then you'll just have to shim once to get things properly vertical. If the problem is extreme, consider bolts or a backboard to connect the sides of the units. Both these options will improve overall stability of the pair. Depending on the aesthetic situation, you ...
That's a common failure mode for those lamps; the threads are fairly shallow and prone to stripping out. Though if it happens immediately, rather than after a few years of use, I would definitely return it for refund and/or replacement. If it fails after the warranty has expired: It is possible to kluge the connection by wrapping the threat in teflon ...
My guess is that there is a small amount of sawdust/wood particles inside the hollow pieces from the manufacturing process. I wouldn't worry about it. I can't see how or why there would be liquid inside but if there are holes at one end it should be easy to verify by tipping that end down.
Dig out the bad/loose stuff. Fill with an epoxy based filler (such as Bondo). Redrill the holes. Reinsert the cam bolts. Product references are for illustration only and not an endorsement
There's not really much you can do to stop the off gassing of VOC's from that piece of furniture, you just have to wait it out. How long it will take depends on the compounds used and the manufacturing process. Your concerns are definitely valid, there have been many harmful health effects associated with VOC's. Most of the time, this process happens ...
There are two ways you could do this, both start with shimming the bookcases so that the doors operate the way they should. The shelves do not need to be perfectly level and plumb, they only need to look that way so they do not draw attention from being out of level or plumb. After the shims are set the way the shelves or better to say, doors work the best, ...
I do not know the exact materials and construction methods used for your IKEA Billy bookcases but one scheme you could use to get them to sit nicely in their place on the floor is to "scribe" them to fit. This technique would involve you first clamping the two units together using some C-clamps. Make sure to put some protective material under the clamp faces ...
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