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1

Assuming that it's twin and earth wiring (which it sounds like from your description), yes the earth wire in the cable is typically uninsulated once the outer sheath has been removed. It's usual to use a piece of yellow and green sleeving to slip over the earth wire. I'd recommend that you run the outer sheaf of the into the junction box, or you could ...


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Just short of doing something like below, I think the best you can make sure of is: Steel door Secured hinges (As Brock Adams suggested - non-removable pins or concealed) A deadbolt Reinforced latches, or at least well installed. Not excessive clearance between the door and the frame that would allow anything between to mess with the latch (A deadbolt also ...


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I have an aluminum dog door frame that fits from top to bottom and has channels so the door can be locked. One of these could be modified with hardware wire mesh instead of plexiglass.


2

If its open its going to be easier to break in whether its 1cm or 4inches. A security gate always did wonders for us in South Africa, pretty sure in many other countries too. TIP: When you install the security gate, make sure that it cannot be screwed out from its sockets, form the OUTSIDE. Or tampered with in any other way from the outside.


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Given that some spelunkers (cavers) manage to squeeze through 6-7" cracks, 4" seems about right (and make sure that an arm, perhaps longer than your own, or holding a tool such as @Matthew's wire, can't reach in far enough to defeat the lock - which would be one reason to go even smaller.) You also need to be careful about creating a trap for yourself - ...


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You have it right. Remember that capacitors can store power for some time, so be careful when handling. I would recommend removing the ignitor, capacitor, and ballast to ensure some future user does not attempt to incorrectly re-wire the fixture. Remember, safety first: turn off and secure the power supply prior to servicing.



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