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12

Standing water in the bottom of the dish washer after a cleaning cycle is complete is NOT normal. After the wash/rinse cycle and the pump out your dishwasher not have water in it. Standing water could be due to number of problems. I'll list out some of the things to check on. 1) There is a possibility that the filter screen in the bottom of your washer if ...


9

I would caulk any joint between fiberglass and tile. Some pre-made fiberglass kits have ways to overlap and seal the joint, but that doesn't appear to be your situation. Water coming out of the shower will be much more significant than any moisture that makes it through the tiles and grout. That said, if moisture eventually deteriorates the walls and tiles, ...


8

If the cost of raising the patio is too great you could get an angle grinder or perhaps a better choice would be renting a concrete wet saw and cut out a strip about 6 inches wide from the edge that meets the house wall. As @woodchips points out in his comment, make sure you wear gloves, safety goggle and a mask for this. It'll get hot, but it's very dusty ...


8

According to the sealant data sheet, you can seal new grout after 48 hours. For me I would play it safe if I could (do you have to be able to use this bathroom?), if the grout says no water for 7 days I would wait that long before sealing. That is probably overly cautious but then I don't get much work done during the week anyway so for me waiting until ...


7

I don't believe rock salt is actually harmful to unsealed asphalt (assuming that's what the driveway is made of). I used it for several years on the unsealed asphalt driveway at my old house and never had problems. It doesn't look pretty, and while it's in use the driveway will of course have white splotches all over it, but those will wash off in the ...


7

The rubbery sealant is bathroom (or general-purpose) silicone caulk. As to why they don't use it between every tile, the answer is that it shouldn't be necessary; except for the one row of tile overhanging the "backsplash" of a "built-in" tub (helps keep minor splashes and overflow from seeping into the wall behind the tub), all tiles should be fixed to the ...


7

Put the cord/hole in the top of the door, and it really won't matter: The cold air is heavier than the air around it. So your freezer full of cold air is like a bucket of water: the cold air is trying to flow out only where gravity will let it. Other than the stirring of air causing the mingling of warm and cold air, a freezer doesn't need a top at all. ...


7

Check your manual! It should say. My dishwasher specifically states that there should always be a small amount of water remaining in the dishwasher, and if there isn't (say during first run after installation) you should add several cups of water. Source:GE Dishwasher manual (PDF)


7

I'd first check for leaks. Even a tiny crack can let a lot of cold air in over time. Caulking would be the proper solution, but since you're renting, foam weatherstripping tape may be a quicker/cheaper solution. Next, if the window is single-paned or otherwise just poor quality, the cold could be coming straight through the glass. (This is probably more ...


6

All you need to do is leave the grout to dry before getting it wet. The instructions should tell you for how long. As you and others have pointed out drying and curing are separate things. While you can use the shower after the grout is dried you may need to leave it for a day or two after it's cured before sealing. You don't want to seal any moisture in.


6

There are 2 basic categories for wood finishes; those that penetrate, and those that coat. Linseed oil, wax, "hand rubbed polish" finishes are all examples of a penetrating finish. Varnish, lacquer, shellac are examples of coating finishes. There are many different reasons to choose one over the other. Some factors: what type of wood how will the wood be ...


6

The door gasket on your dishwasher may not be sealing - check that for sure. I would: Stop using the dishwasher for a week to let the area dry out. Mask off the formica/laminate in front. Use a solvent-based polyurethane (exterior grade) on the particle board that is crumbling. This will soak in and hopefully glue it all back together. Think about gluing ...


6

In these situations, I use bulkhead fittings. It saves the annoyance to getting this stuff to seal properly, any slight leverage and there's now a leak. These are available in several sizes at most plumbing supply stores. If there's a gentle curve to the surface this has to penetrate, I've used a large O-ring instead of the supplied gasket. They're available ...


5

I like clear silicone caulk for this kind of job. It will remain flexible after curing, so if the pipe gets bumped or moved around it won't break or crack like expanding foam. And the clear caulk won't stand out since it cures to a translucent light grey color which is similar to the siding.


5

There are a few different ways I've seen this done. The best way is to trench around the outside of the foundation down to the footer, seal the outside of the wall, and install a drainage system (gravel and pipes) at the footer to redirect the water to a sump pit where it can be pumped out. Next best way is to do basicly the same thing, but on the inside ...


5

They do make stain specifically for marine use. Doesn't say specifically that it's environmentally friendly, but the MSDS sheet does say it's water soluble. The same manufacturer has environmentally friendly stains as well, but I have no idea how well they might work (or exactly what "environmentally friendly" means to them).


5

If your leaking problem is from loose fitting window sashes or a poor fitting door, the simplest and cheapest method would be to purchase some self-adhesive foam weather stripping. This rolled product can be easily installed at the bottom of a window or around the outside edge of the door frame. Select the smallest size that will help seal the gaps, then ...


5

Not an uncommon problem. Most of those metal railings are made of wroght iron, which is a very soft steel. When you sand them off and don't level the "pits", the rust will come back time after time. It is absolutely necessary to clean out all the "pits" as much as possible, then treat the area with a rust converter before priming to paint. Rust ...


5

I'd opt for a fire resistant silicone sealant such as this one >> http://www.bostik.co.uk/construction/product/bostik/Fireseal-Silicone-Joint-Sealant/340 That's from a UK site, but I'm sure there are similar products in your part of the world. When it comes to cement then flexibility is usually imparted by including lime in the mortar - although that's a ...


5

After looking at the installation guide (direct link to PDF), it needs to be fixed to the door face that closes onto the stop beads (which are usually attached to the inside face of the door frame), or put another way, the opposite face from the hinges pins.


5

I would personally use Loctite PL Polyurethane Concrete Crack & Masonry Sealant, which will adhere well but still provide a degree of flexibility as your pipe moves within the brick. It's grey, but you can also mix in a little concrete dust or dirt to give it that "I'm not shiny caulk, honest!" look. The PL product should be available at your local ...


5

It's always good to inspect your deck every year after winter. Check for any loosening fasteners, any signs of rot, check for mold, and inspect places where wood meets wood. I would advise against an annual power-washing. It is extremely harsh on the wood, even if done by a professional. It requires a lot of work to restore the surface, as the pressure ...


5

The sealant strip is supposed to cope with some movement of the shower (or bath) by being flexible. However, what usually happens is that it's not quite flexible enough or loses it's flexibility with age so water starts seeping around it. This is when caulk or other sealants are added on top. If you can get a good seal with the caulk (which you appear to ...


5

Let's start by saying the tile should be replaced. It still can be replaced even though the grout has been applied. I would insist on it. There is little that can be done to repair the flawed tile, except sanding or grinding down the flaw. This would have to be done with extreme caution in order not to scratch and damage the area around the flaw. Perhaps ...


5

I think your third idea will work and look the best. First fill the void with expanding foam, allow the foam to cure, then cut it off flush with the face of the existing door trim. Then cover the area with whatever molding/trim you find most aesthetically pleasing. You may wish to miter or cope the corners to get a more finished appearance.


4

You want to apply a penetrating grout sealer. This one says that it last up to 5 years depending on conditions. The key for the sealer to last as long as possible on a backsplash is to avoid cleaning it with "harsh cleaners" like bleach and antibacterial sprays. You want to use something that is not going to remove the grout sealer when cleaning the ...


4

Yes. Use the shower, but give it 24 hours to dry/harden/set. In fact, as with all portland cement products, it's a good idea to keep it moist while it cures, as the curing process is all about hydrating the cement molecules (i.e. binding with water.) Avoid high pressure sprays, and any abrasion, but water running down the tile wall will be fine. Let it ...


4

This basin trim piece you are referring to is usually connected to the tail piece flange with a very fine thread. If has been in place for a long time, they can be difficult to remove. You will need to insert something like needle nose pliers in the top and hold the tail piece from the bottom and unscrew it. Clean out all the old plumbers putty and replace ...



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