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2x2's are actually 1.5" x 1.5", so the screw should be shorter than that distance plus the thickness of board you are using (1/2" or 3/4"), taking into account how far countersunk the screw is. If you use a flat head screw, it will countersink, where as a pan or round-headed screw won't countersink (at least, depending how hard you drive it in). The ...


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Silly me for assuming that the part I needed to attached to this damaged piece was machined correctly. It turns out they had it in backward when they made it, so I drilled new holes in both pieces (which I found out I am really bad at), and the screws (nevertheless) hold it together now. Thanks all for your ideas!


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First try to determine if the piece is a solid piece of steel or a casting, sometimes referred to as potmetal. Over heating a casting can turn it to a brittle paperweight The broken extractor bit is likely to hard to drill out. If you have access to the opposite side try to drill a small hole and drive the broken extractor out with a punch. Once the broken ...


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Good idea about trying to fill the hole. You need an oxy-acetylene torch to heat it enough for brazing to flow. Or a stick welder. Is it a viable option to attach a repair piece of stock on top and over the damaged section. Something that overlaps enough so it can be : screwed, bolted, welded... into position? Than drill and tap.


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It looks like a tamper-resistant hex screw. There are specific wrenches for these. Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.


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Sure. You tap (or drill out and tap) the larger hole for a convenient thread size, and use an M6 threaded insert with that thread size (from personal experience, I suggest not using the helical type unless you have to - if there is no space constraint, a larger-outside-thread solid insert holds up better.) M6x1 with an outer of M10x1.5 seems to be a common ...


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I'm going to guess, but it might be an 'outside corner bracket'? You could modify a standard corner brackets countersunk openings by using a countersunk bit on the reverse-side of the bracket.


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Luckily your mount has slots for the bolts so you have a bit of room to work. Get another (stronger, higher quality) lag bolt and put it in right beside the broken one. Leave a tiny bit of room between them if you can, but make sure it still solidly hits the stud. Predrill the hole. To find the right size, hold the bolt up behind your drill bit. The ...


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You're using the wrong type of screws. It should be a #7 Pan-Head And Not the self tapping. The self tapping is good for thicker metal studs but the the sharp tip works best for those angle shots you're having trouble with. Use #8 self tapping for the tougher thicker steel studs



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