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Those could be screws with the heads removed, specifically to prevent people from opening the device. In that case, try to cut a slash across the top of the screw so that you can get a flat-head screwdriver in there. A dremel comes to mind, although you'll damage the plastic casing, but, hey, if you want to make an omelette... Just as likely though, they ...


Whatever it is, it's made not to be opened - why are you trying to open it? Rivets seemed like a good bet at first, but I'm now inclined to say the "snap off" as mentioned by @keshlam - a screw engineered so that the item can be assembled, and then the means of turning the screw can be broken off (leaving the non-soft hex scar) You could probably grind a ...


I have a 1920s house with oak framing - all of it. This could be what you have as well. The oak is hard as a rock, which makes nailing is almost impossible. I have to drill a pilot hole. I also had to buy a heavy duty drill. And yes, there are nail heads EVERYWHERE.


As for other options: I really like using square drive bits and fasteners (a.k.a "Robertson"): They have several advantages over Philips-style screws: The screw easily attaches to the bit and generally stays put (this is the attribute you seem to be looking for) The square drive bit does not "cam out" if you don't apply enough pressure. The bit and ...


It's called a Magnetic Drive Guide. At least that's what DeWalt calls it.


Go to basement, garage sale, or thrift store and pick up an old, regular screwdriver about the right size to fit the slot in the lighter. Use a file, hacksaw, angle grinder or mototool type device to cut a slot in the screwdriver. Make the slot big enough to fit around the gas nipple. Unscrew as needed.


I put a bit of masking tape over the tip of the screwdriver to provide a bit of cushion and edge protection. I usually run into this when installing wall plates for switches and outlets. A standard screwdriver can scrape the paint off the screw pretty easily, but the tape works for me.

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