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Looks like you need an 8-point socket. It is hard to tell the size from the picture but it looks small, you will probably need one in 1/4" drive. If you want a driver for it, you can get a 1/4" drive socket drive handle.


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When it comes to installing cabinetry the only time you would counter bore is if you plan on plugging the hole, its pretty rare that you need to use lags to install a cabinet. All you really need to know is that the countersink needs to be at least as big as the head so it doesn't have to crush the fibers the go flush, the hole in the first piece has to be ...


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It does not matter what the screw size is, only the angle is important. You have to determine the angle of the head of the screw you are using: Your countersink should be of the same angle or you will not get a clean result. Most flathead screws are 82 degrees, but you have to check to make sure. Also, there is an art to boring the chamfer. Due to ...


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A #8 countersink will not only drill too small a hole, it'll also leave a #10 screw's head protruding slightly above the surface (assuming flat-head screws, since countersinks aren't used for any other screw head style). Use a #10 countersink for a #10 screw. From your description of the screws you intend to use, though... I don't think you want to ...


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A standard #10 screw has an outer thread diameter of 3/16". The #10 countersink you are referring to is a combined tool designed for applications where the screw is to pass completely through the material without digging the threads into the wood and have the head sit flush. If you wish to use a screw that is actually going to grip the material, such as a ...


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First, just a general note - driving lag screws like the one pictured above into concrete or stone would need an anchor drilled and set into the concrete, and you'd also want a washer. If you don't have anchors underneath, you'd probably want a concrete anchor screw or another type of fastener. That said, you'll likely be able to apply more torque with a ...


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Use a mini-hack and get rid of that bolt, along with those washers. The parts on that tank are all wrong. The bolts should be brass and the washers should be rubber, not hard plastic.


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Looks like the threads on the bolt are crushed/damaged, so you're only choice might be to drill it out or cut it off. Put on a pair of good work gloves. Remove the blade from a hack saw. Then work the blade between the nut, and the plastic washer. It will likely be slow, hard work, but eventually you should be able to cut the bolt. Alternatively, you ...


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The bolt looks like a lost cause. I assume you'll be replacing it with a new one? First try this: Get a good wrench on the nut (closed end preferably). A vice grips set very snugly should work too. Find a way to hold it in place so it doesn't spin with the bolt (the floor or a vice or some helping hands) so you have two hands free. Get a good ...


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The most expedient and practical solution is to drill out the bolt. Probably access is better from the top through the tank, but it can be done from either side. The goal of "drilling out" is to weaken the shaft of the bolt enough so that either the friction on the nut is reduced to the point where it turns, or the shaft breaks and separates into two ...



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