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Tried staining and sanding on a sample piece. It didn't come out as expected. There was very little difference between the engraved and the un-engraved portions. So , I decided to redo this with a plaque made of basswood instead of pine. This worked perfectly. The laser burnt the wood just right to provide a distinct contrast with the un-engraved regions.


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The solution might be a Stripper cleaner. Tile Doctor has a tile and stone cleaner, any acid will damage your stone.


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Use a sanding block (ie, do not hand sand with your fingers) which will prevent the sandpaper from pressing into the grooves. 1 mm is huge, for anything reasonably described as fine sandpaper and not applied with excess enthusiasm. But, as is always the case, testing your complete proposed finishing process on a suitable piece of (in this case) ...


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What about filling the engraved area with a darker material, either colored wood filler or dark epoxy, scraping level before it hardens, and after it sets, just a very light sanding to remove any residual on the rest of the surface?


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The Varathane ezV Floor Sander is one of the essayist floor sanders to use. you don't need to follow the grain of the wood and although it doesn't remove material as fast as a drum sander It does a reasonable job. It also gets close to the walls so very little edge sanding is required. Tearing sand paper. It can be caused by wear, cuts or tears in the hook ...


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Plastic doesn't sand well. I'd CAREFULLY use an exacto knife on the parting line. Then polish it mechanically. Don't use turtle wax or anything like that; just rub it aggressively on some cloth. I.e., your jeans. For me, my lighter makes a good backstop while in my fifth pocket, you might want to lay the cloth on a hard surface or you probably won't be ...



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