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For light wear (just surface scratches), a "screen and recoat" approach can restore the surface and appearance -- at least for poly; not sure about other varnishes. Deeper damage probably means a full refinishing.


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I have years of using both. I have no scientific data or anything like that. If I had big pieces of lint/whatever stuck in polyurethane then I would use a sanding screen. If I had a large area of issues I would use sandpaper. A screen will allow you to knock out things that are not flush with your surface while leaving your surface in tact - see @DA01's ...


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Depends on the quality of the existing finish... if it's as flat as you want it to be, then I'd kiss it with 150 on a pole sander. Link for illustration purposes only: there are many out there... If you need to knock down blobs/ runs/ etc, then start with 120 on the handheld random orbit sander. Work your way up to 150/220. Vacuum and then wipe with a ...


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Do not sand or scuff up anything. Apply a coat of primer over the whole thing and allow to completely dry. Use setting type 90, light weight joint compound, in small batches, to smooth out the imperfections. (It comes in a bag.) Do not sand between coats - if you do, use a well wrung sponge, to remove excess dust, before applying another coat of mud. Use ...


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You need to get a wire brush and scratch the hell out of your wall in the bad area and a little outside of it. Add mud to flatten area. Let it dry. Scrape any high areas (with mud knife). Add a big layer of mud for a second coat. Scrape then thoroughly sand. You are going to have to prime and paint the area. If you just slightly prime the already ...


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Ugh. The paint is just going to make what should be pretty easy rather more difficult. Even your drywall pros sand stuff - they just waste far less time than amateurs trying to get the mud perfect (and messing it up more) - get it on, get it dry, sand, next coat. Drywall mud is made to be easily sanded. Paint, not so much. Don't even think about painting ...



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