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Concrete absorbs water. That’s why it can never be finishing layer in this type of situations. Even if it is properly tilted that wouldn't solve your problem completely. You must protect it. Now, if you want to do it right it's a bit more complex than just putting tiles. If you are short on money you can do just that but it's not proper solution. Firstly you ...


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I live in Ontario and just coming out of a major deep freeze and found out the hard way that style of vent shown caused a massive ice dam all around the vent. The vent ended up buried in snow and started to drip into the bathroom. Cleaned off the snow and problem stopped for now, but plan to install a vent stack this spring.


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It sounds like this pipe was originally an air intake, but that since it was installed, the furnace closet has been substantially altered. Since you're in California and this involves combustion appliances, there's bound to be a code official involved at some point, and he'll tell you what an appropriate source of combustion air would be. It's possible ...


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It could be an intake. Furnaces require combustion air, which can only be taken from certain sources. If the furnace is in a utility closet (or surrounded by living space), the pipe could be supplying combustion air. If this is the case, it cannot be removed. Without more detail, it's impossible to definitively answer this question.


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If you're replacing the roofing materials anyway, I'd strip then entire roof off. You'll have far more working space/ease with everything out of the way. (Think about how much fun it isn't to be threading a new top plate log inside your jacking structure...) As @Michael Karas noted, there's a strong chance you've got rot near the ends of your rafters, so ...


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The most important considerations are preparations and safety. Make sure to fully evaluate the condition of the rafters at the top of the wall interface point. If the top log(s) are as severely rotted as you say the rafters are likely to be rotted at that point too. If they are rotted then you would not want to be jacking from the outside ends of the rafter ...


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Capping an unused vent is not a problem, but you might consider, instead of patching, adding an attic vent at that spot? Trye googling "vent caps" or "chimney caps" for your other question.


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Far better to both insulate & ventilate the attic better and use "Ice & Water Shield" (a thick, flexible, adhesive underlayer) rather than felt-paper for at least 8-12 feet up from the edge of the roof. Heat cables are better than nothing, but they are a poor "solution" at best - expensive to operate and not really solving the underlying problem. ...


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I am not sure how much roof space you have but a simple solution which would help would be to place a beam between the two lower legs of your roof. Horizontally and level with say your "cross" drawn with your blue lines, tying the two sides together and stopping it from "splaying" outwards.



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