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Solution I ended up with: I extended the shingles well over the edge (not shown) and also added some kick out flashing (not shown) to further divert water away from the side wall and to the roof plane below.


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Ideally, you could use a pvc membrane and weld it all aover that place to make it fully watertight. Something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsJlBUmouw4 But it's likely that you do not have equipment or the PVC materials to do this. So I would go to Home Depot, and get a roll of GAF Deck Armor, and a tube of Quad Roof caulk. Start from the very ...


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You can go with or without wood substrate. If it's a car port and you are using R-Panel, putting metal on purlins is sufficient. For heated spaces it is hightly recommended to use wood sheeting, ventilate the attic space, and use breathable synthetic underlayment. Do not use vapor barrier under metal, as it will trap moisture and cause rot. Good luck


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Unless you mean something out of the ordinary, you probably need at least "purlins" to support the metal between the 2x6 rafters. If you could provide a sketch of your proposed framing scheme it might help. With typical rafter spacing that might mean a 2x4 laid flat every 1-3 feet or so (depending on what the roofing metal can "self-support" across, roof ...


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I would not add plywood under the metal. The only thing that will come with this is the possibility of rot and the loosening of your metal sheet connections. However plywood does offer structural support to your roof so you may have to add a few crosses and make sure you have a good screw schedule on the tin sheets.


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If you're having major ice dam problems, the solution is to beef up your attic's insulation, especially at the edges. Ice dams are caused by heat rising through your attic due to insufficient insulation, where it melts the snow which re-freezes once it hits the cold gutter. If you're preparing to spend money to fix the problem, I suggest spending it on ...



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