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8

PVC is relatively inexpensive so the main cost is installing it. If your furnace is near an exterior wall, they'll simply make a hole in that wall and run the lines directly out. If your furnace isn't close to an exterior wall, then you need to run the lines through the ceiling, preferably in the direction of the joists, until you reach an exterior wall. If ...


6

Is it expensive? Well that depends on your definition of "expensive", the amount of work you need to do, and who you get to do the work. 90% efficient furnaces require PVC venting directly outside, as opposed to using a chimney like the older 80% furnaces do. The extra expense is entirely dependent on how easy it is to route these pipes from your furnace to ...


4

I think you'll have to get one of these vapor barrier boxes, and fit it before installing your electrical box. Seal up where the cable penetrates, then install your electrical box. The other options would be to cut a larger hole and patch drywall, or seal it up from the back side (but that would require access to the other side of the wall/ceiling).


4

Four inch and six inch recessed fixtures consist of two main parts - the can and the trim. They need to match. The first issue will be getting the old can out. If it is old-work style, it may be held in just by pressure clips on the sides, fairly easy to remove. If it is new-work style, it will be attached to framing members, either directly or with a brace ...


4

This conference presentation (PDF) seems to lay out the process fairly well. It also mentions a few resources that go into more detailed calculations and considerations. The Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors’ National Association has an overview guide available here (PDF) for improving efficiency. They also have entire standards available for ...


3

I would need to see pictures of what said bulbs look like in your current cans but I can tell you that they sell thousands of varieties of recessed lighting trim for 6 inch cans. I am almost positive you can find trim that will work for your 4 inch retrofits and you don't have to touch the drywall.


3

I'd use the range hood box as a junction box. It meets the code definition of accessible: Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building. And in most places should pass just fine. I'd use BX because that MDF hood cover is rather easily ...


3

This seems like a clever marketing strategy; as mentioned by Gregmac and Bmitch, the extra cost for the 90% install can be quite variable; you might want to start with an estimate, so you have the facts. In general, I would only consider this if you think your existing furnace is at the end of its life; otherwise, you might as well wait until you reach that ...


3

My new house was built with a high efficiency condensing furnace and the pipes they use look just like lawn sprinkler pipes. Low pressure PVC pipes like these are very cheap for materials and very easy to work with. Almost any tool can cut them and joints are just glued. In my case, the pipes just ran straight to the nearest exterior wall, outside and then ...


3

18awg is small for power wires. With 5VAC 2A: At 20ft you're going to get ~4.5V At 40ft, about ~4.0V. For comparison, if it was 16awg, at 20ft you'd get ~4.7V. With 22awg, at 20ft you'd get ~3.7V. You should check the specs on the camera: they'll often give a voltage tolerance. On top of that, some transformers (especially cheap ones) don't exactly ...


2

You might be able to, depending on the power requirements of the camera and the size (gauge) of the wire. If the wire is quite small and the camera demands a lot of current, it may not work. Length of wire is also a factor. The buzz-word for this is "voltage drop". Some electronic devices are less immune to voltage drop than other devices. Some camera ...


2

I have the same problem. This is what I am thinking of doing: Cut back the siding above the ledger in two places - right at the top of the ledger and 1" above the level of the board that goes over the ledger. Loosen the siding left above the ledger so that you can slip flashing under the paper under the siding. Run flashing behind the siding and over the ...


2

Why not build your closet wall along the dotted line, but end it at the inset near the window. Build a short return wall to the edge of the inset. Then on the short wall to the left of the window, build in a bookshelf ceiling to floor that is slightly less deep than the closet wall (inset about 2-3") and just short of the window trim. You could also build ...


2

Ugh. Your plan sounds like a lot of work, but seems sound. As an alternative could you convert this to a freestanding deck? Add post and piers near the house. Install some blocking to replace the crummy ledger you'll soon remove. Pull up your one row of floor boards and chop the deck shy of the wall.


2

Wear. The overlays appear to be solid hardwood. The plywood is a thin veneer over other non hardwood plys. As the steps wear, you run the risk of wearing through the veneer. Even if you don't, if you need to refinish, you again risk sanding through that thin top layer. In my old house, the bottom stair had a worn dip in the middle (reputedly eroded by my ...


2

While you may be able to do this yourself. There are many pitfalls, stumbling blocks, and code nuances that rookies are just not aware of. My advice is to get an experienced HVAC contractor involved, at least during the planning process. Once the system is planned out, carrying out that plan is a fairly DIY friendly job. Unless of course, you have to deal ...


1

One solution that may be more expensive, but possibly simpler is to create a "trim adapter" specialized to the 4" LED fixtures. The fixtures should mount into the trim and the trim should mount to the existing 6" cans (e.g. via spring holes). Something like this below: The trim adapter can be printed using an online 3D printing service.


1

My guess is that you really don't want to shrink the holes that the existing 6" recessed lights are in. That requires a lot of drywall skill, paint color matching, paint blending, and a lot of work to make your ceiling look as good as it does now. Instead, I think you should consider LEDs with a 6" baffle trim. This video shows an example: ...


1

All motion detectors have an override mode. Typically this is done by either flipping the wall switch off/on in a certain pattern, or by a switch on the motion head. Thing is, when you put it in override mode every one I have seen reverts back to motion after the next night/day cycle. I have NEVER seen a motion detector that has a permanent manual override ...


1

Just get replacement windows instead of new construction and use tapcons to fasten the windows through the sides. Caulk outside good to keep out water. Foundation should also be graded away from the window to keep out water.


1

Warranty? For 3), cut the ring connector. Don't cut a hunk out, just split it. Use dykes. Then you can bend it (like a key ring spreads) around the bolt and when you tighten it, it will flatten out again as a ring and won't fall off. But that's not the most secure place to connect (i.e., the height adjustment screws don't tighten very tight). Any other ...


1

Building departments usually rely on a nationally recognized model code. In California at the time your house was probably built, this was likely the Uniform Building Code published by the International Council of Building Officials. I don't have any old UBC references, but the current International Residential Code for One- and Two-Family Dwellings which ...


1

I think what you have is a mechanical thermocouple sensor that is connected to the regulator. This is the same as one would have in an RV. They do not use any electricity, and the thermostat is part of the gas regulator. The only remote I am aware of would be a remote thermocouple. I'm not sure if your unit has a removable sensor. If it does, then you can ...


1

Do your plan except cut the joist about 3' from the side of the house. Install the ledger an then sister the removed joist section back into placed with 6' sections of 2x8 or 2x6 (whatever the joists are) with several nuts and bolts. If the support posts really get in the way of this, then make the splice between the first and second posts instead of the ...



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