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PVC is relatively inexpensive so the main cost is installing it. If your furnace is near an exterior wall, they'll simply make a hole in that wall and run the lines directly out. If your furnace isn't close to an exterior wall, then you need to run the lines through the ceiling, preferably in the direction of the joists, until you reach an exterior wall. If ...

Is it expensive? Well that depends on your definition of "expensive", the amount of work you need to do, and who you get to do the work. 90% efficient furnaces require PVC venting directly outside, as opposed to using a chimney like the older 80% furnaces do. The extra expense is entirely dependent on how easy it is to route these pipes from your furnace to ...

I think you'll have to get one of these vapor barrier boxes, and fit it before installing your electrical box. Seal up where the cable penetrates, then install your electrical box. The other options would be to cut a larger hole and patch drywall, or seal it up from the back side (but that would require access to the other side of the wall/ceiling).

I'd use the range hood box as a junction box. It meets the code definition of accessible: Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building. And in most places should pass just fine. I'd use BX because that MDF hood cover is rather easily ...

This seems like a clever marketing strategy; as mentioned by Gregmac and Bmitch, the extra cost for the 90% install can be quite variable; you might want to start with an estimate, so you have the facts. In general, I would only consider this if you think your existing furnace is at the end of its life; otherwise, you might as well wait until you reach that ...

My new house was built with a high efficiency condensing furnace and the pipes they use look just like lawn sprinkler pipes. Low pressure PVC pipes like these are very cheap for materials and very easy to work with. Almost any tool can cut them and joints are just glued. In my case, the pipes just ran straight to the nearest exterior wall, outside and then ...

Ugh. Your plan sounds like a lot of work, but seems sound. As an alternative could you convert this to a freestanding deck? Add post and piers near the house. Install some blocking to replace the crummy ledger you'll soon remove. Pull up your one row of floor boards and chop the deck shy of the wall.

18awg is small for power wires. With 5VAC 2A: At 20ft you're going to get ~4.5V At 40ft, about ~4.0V. For comparison, if it was 16awg, at 20ft you'd get ~4.7V. With 22awg, at 20ft you'd get ~3.7V. You should check the specs on the camera: they'll often give a voltage tolerance. On top of that, some transformers (especially cheap ones) don't exactly ...

You might be able to, depending on the power requirements of the camera and the size (gauge) of the wire. If the wire is quite small and the camera demands a lot of current, it may not work. Length of wire is also a factor. The buzz-word for this is "voltage drop". Some electronic devices are less immune to voltage drop than other devices. Some camera ...

I have the same problem. This is what I am thinking of doing: Cut back the siding above the ledger in two places - right at the top of the ledger and 1" above the level of the board that goes over the ledger. Loosen the siding left above the ledger so that you can slip flashing under the paper under the siding. Run flashing behind the siding and over the ...

Do your plan except cut the joist about 3' from the side of the house. Install the ledger an then sister the removed joist section back into placed with 6' sections of 2x8 or 2x6 (whatever the joists are) with several nuts and bolts. If the support posts really get in the way of this, then make the splice between the first and second posts instead of the ...