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I use Time Sert system and it has worked great for me on Tractors and mowers.


1

The proper installation order: vapor barrier, backer-board, tile. Secondly, since this isn't a drywall/wood wall, the backer-board would protrude the tiles off the wall about 1/2 an inch, this is easily fixed at the top where there is a tile moulding but was wondering if there were any other elegant solutions? I'm not sure that I understand this problem, ...


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Old question but for others with the same problem...it can also be lint in the motor housing affecting the brushes and preventing it from starting up. Try pressing the door witch and rotating the drum by hand and see if it starts. If so its probably lint in the motor.


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You might like "caster cups" You can get them in a variety of colours, sizes and materials including transparent plastic. For chairs that need to be slid in and out from under a table, you might need a type of caster cup specifically intended for that purpose The only castor cup where the wheels stay in the cup when furniture is moved - From ...


1

Using a hole punch, make 2 layers of electrical tape rounds. Put them on the end of the start button nib with slow dry super glue. Be patient. You are trying to add a few thousandth of an inch. The tape is non-conductive, not brittle, requires no special tools and is a much better fix than wrapping. The push button is not available as a separate part, you ...


2

You might be able to inject some wood glue into it, and then use C-clamps (and a straight piece of 1/8" (or thicker) steel or hard wood) to really squeeze it flat. If it works, then I would lightly sand it with some 180 or 200 grit sand paper, and seal it with varnish. However, if it doesn't turn out quite right (still swollen), then you should sand it flat ...


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Once the chipboard has dried out a sealing paint can be used to encapsulate the wood fiber. Once the Melamine starts buckling it is tough to seal unless removed and a new strip installed after sanding filling then sealing.It may be tough to get a close match on the color but this method should provide another 5+ years. You could even use a different color to ...


1

There is no place in the code book that I can recall that requires 12" centers for a bearing wall. You can move over the studs to a 16" center, rather than making a header. If you choose to. The drywall will make it a little tough to do that...


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It is true current code requires AFCI/ GFCI , but you are not required to use AFCI's if you want to update to GFCI's. There are 2 ways to accomplish the upgrade to GFCI' s the first is install a 2 pole GFCI breaker in your panel this would require going to the panel to reset a fault. The 2nd would be use 2 GFCI outlets the first 2 outlets would not be split. ...


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Even without knowing anything about how your structure sits, I'm 99.9% sure that slapping studs on each side (10" spacing and 14" spacing, as you described) will be perfectly fine. Typical bearing wall construction is 16" on center, frequently with 2x4s, so you'll be up to code and have something to attach drywall to.


3

Technically, the only way to accomplish what you're asking is to use a double pole 20A GFCI breaker, as there is no such thing as multi-wire branch circuit GFCI receptacle. Preferably, if it existed, you'd use a double pole 20A DFCI "Dual GFCI + AFCI" breaker, but until then your only option is the GFCI double pole. Credit goes to SpeedyPetey for ...


2

Without awaiting the rest of your pictures, I'll note that if you are removing the decking you're a hop, skip, and a jump from removing the whole porch (or at least the lower frame) which might make it a lot easier to work on. Temporary roof support during porch work is often done with 2x10's angled out into the lawn beyond the porch. Image Search for "porch ...


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Cut a square of drywall or wood roughly the size of the original hole. Place it over the original area and trace with a pencil. Then cut out the traced area and glue it in the hole. Then use the fiberglass patch. You need something to hold the screw and the plaster alone will not do.


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Unless the tape is badly torn up or loose, just sand high spots and then put one or two coats of drywall compound over it. I have no experience using DAP spackle as joint compound - mostly because I'm a professional and just use joint compound for joints. Spackle is more expensive when you're dealing with large quantities. It would make a better job to go ...


0

Normally I would remove the cornice and replace it once the drywall is finished and painted - because that is usually the easiest, if you are okay with installing new crown molding. If that's something you aren't interested in doing (perhaps it's a molding you can't copy and don't want to get rid of), then you can finish your job without removing it. Once ...


4

Although difficult to see and you are not sure if you have exposed the base drywall, I suspect what you have is painted wallpaper. The drywall paper rarely comes off easily without taking some gypsum with it. Because you have described three distinct layers, you may have wallpaper that has been skim coated with mud or primer then painted. What typically ...


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That looks like poorly-adhering paint to me, possibly on top of a crack in the plaster. You'll need to remove all the loose paint you can find. Then, feather the sharp edges of paint with a thin layer of plaster, prime, and paint the wall.


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I'd tap the rest of the wall and see really how much you need to repair. From the photo it looks as though you will have another inch or two upwards and at least another inch going down. This is a really easy fix though. You can get a tub of mud (plaster patch) at any home improvement, hardware or even your local department store and even large grocery ...


2

Use a table, circular, or other saw to rip the deck boards to fit.


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Your plan is exactly right, except that you don't need such heavy-duty hardware to do the jacking/winching. Even a pair of motorcycle ratchet straps or a come-along is going to do the job, especially if you jack up the ridge board. I think it'll all move easier than you anticipate. Just make sure you have solid connections to the walls so you don't have any ...


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The pocket door that is dragging the floor is the best indicator perhaps of what is going on. If it is original to the house means one thing, if it is a newer install as in not original means something different. If painting the wall covers the crack you are asking about, tells me they are very small and there is most likely no concern. Old houses move, ...


3

When the magic smoke escaped from an electrical device, it's dead... Seriously, smoke means something is dangerously overheating. To avoid doing further damage you should remove power from it and not attempt to use it until the problem has been found and fixed.


1

You only need two wires. The earth, or ground, wire is a safety measure should something go wrong with the wiring inside, exposing a live wire. Older homes don't even have such a thing throughout the home and often include a three prong electrical outlet through "updating" without wiring up the ground connection.


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Sometimes the cracks can be a indication of termites or carpenter ants damaging a small section. It can also be an indication of a leak in the wall. I would start by inspecting the exterior footings looking for critter damage. If there is no evidence of critters or leaks, and no change in the exterior siding (cracking or bowing) is this above the area that ...


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First, Watch this youtube video: Scissor Sharpening - with Paul Sellers It's 17 minutes long, but if you keep watching he gives lot's of good information about working on scissors. You really must watch all of it. Now, I totally agree with MK... the gap is on purpose and forging a no-go. If you really want to do something like that, you should try making ...


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It is normal for scissors to have a gap between the blades when they are closed. The blades are bent on a slight curve so that there is a minimal point of contact between the two cutting edges while a closing cutting action is taking place. Without this there would be terrible cutting performance due to tolerance in the surface flatness of the blades and of ...


2

Plumber's Epoxy is what they should've used if they were going to do that. Alternatively (providing there's space for it), use a pipe Repair Clamp. But in your setup, it looks like there's enough couplings to unscrew, to make getting new parts in there comparatively easy. Which is what I'd recommend, instead of just adding more shenanigans.


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A HEPA filter on a regular shop vac wil be fine, I wouldn't bother using a household vacuum even with a HEPA filter though.


4

Plumber's putty would be used to attach the drain cover to the sink. It creates a blockage and suctions both pieces together. It should be a ring of plumber's putty, when smashed is maybe a 1/2" wide. What you have is a DIY disaster and looks like someone was trying to use plumber's putty to repair a possible leak. The problem is if it is exposed to "air"...


1

White silicon may work to plug the holes but if you use it make sure to get the surface finish the way you want it before the stuff dries. It is not a material that will sand very well after the fact. You may also want to try a bathroom tub and sink sealer product. These products bridge gaps fairly well and dry staying a nice white color. The product that I ...


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My floor lamp also needs something to hold it together. Am thinking of buying a metal hose pipe clamp to hold the two poles together and will cover it with gold duck tape can not think of anything else that will give it strength, so will try this as a last resort


2

One problem (and not just with home cheapo) is that there are many models of toilet that all do the same thing, with somewhat different and not always compatible parts. Some have 2" flush valves, some have 3" flush valves - etc. Two problems with home cheapo and lowes and other things like them is that the help are often not particularly knowledgeable, and ...


1

I wouldn't recommend bonding sill plates directly to a concrete floor. Any wood in direct contact with basement concrete is asking for trouble. Concrete is porous and will wick moisture to anything placed on top of it. In order to prevent moisture wicking into the sill plate and consequent danger of mould, mildew, and rot, it's better to lay a 12" wide sheet ...



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