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Well, I think you have some remodeling of your sprinkler system to do. Here are some things that you need to think about. There needs to be an anti-siphon type valve on each controlled sprinkler circuit. These anti-siphon valves need to be mounted at an elevation that is 6 to 12 inches above the highest level of the sprinkler heads on each circuit. Not in ...


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If you can slide them in, then - sand, finish (top face only), assemble. You may need to use a bit of glue on the grooves in the new pieces to hold them in place. There still may be a visible difference between the color and finish of the old and the new. The only way to get them both exactly the same is to refinish the entire floor as suggested by @python ...


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If you ask me there is only one right way to solve this problem: place the boards in the position, then sand the entire floor and polyurethane it. This way repair will (almost) invisible.


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Concrete chainsaws can be rented. They would do all the cutting from above and simplify the excavation. Industrial sized hydraulic ones cut open doorways in poured concrete walls. Another option would be a flexible saddle tap..,which installs by drilling the concrete line with the proper coring bit. Fernco makes a wide line of drain fittings


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It is completely impossible to determine if the maxipad is still in the house plumbing or not with the information given or without a first hand evaluation of the sewer system. The only ways to be really sure are one of these: Run a cleanout snake down the sewer to check if it can snag the pad and pull it back out. Run a remote inspection camera down the ...


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If you can hear some noises during the stuck rinse cycle, then it would likely be that the clutch had worn. You need to replace the clutch assembly.


3

Can I tear down all the dividing floors on the main floor? They are not load bearing of any sort, right? No. At least half are likely load bearing. You will need to bring in an engineer and likely retrofit by installing beams to carry the load. I like the functionality of modern-day plastic framed, double glass windows, but won't they look ...


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Somewhat late to the party but a good solution I've just used goes as follows: Buy some reasonably thick dowel (say, 10mm) and cut a length for each existing screw hole. I'd suggest the length of the screw you are using (plus about 25% extra if your door is not solid wood). Sand one end back square - this is the end that will be exposed when the dowel is ...


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Remove all the plaster/stucco that seems unstable. Wash with a mild acid solution to remove salts that have leached to the cement surface with the water penetration (efflorescence). Dampen the area to be patched and cover the exposed surface with matching stucco/plaster material. No attempt at waterproofing from the inside will be effective.


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Definitely acetone. You can buy acetone at any hardware store. Get an ace bandage and soak the acetone in a bowl in the sink. Do not ring it out, and place it over the stain spreading it out to completely cover the stain. Pull saran wrap over the gauze with plenty extra to secure the gauze so the acetone will not evaporate. Leave it on for a couple days. ...


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As much as we'd rather avoid it, it is still better to pull it out and redo it right. I cannot see what the flooring material is underneath, but it looks like wood, which isn't a good option without a concrete backing board laid on top to reduce flexing. Those walls should also have concrete backing board for better waterproofing and reduced moisture and ...


1

Just buy a little tub of joint compound, or spackling and cover up the areas. You will have to paint it as well. If it is a hole then get a small piece of drywall slightly bigger than the hole but where you can still get it inside (you may have to cut it bigger). Drill a hole in the middle to fit a piece of string in it. This will help you to hold it to ...


1

The sanding sponges work great. Elbow grease, however, is not the best approach. Lightly sand and let the sandpaper do the work. It takes time and a ton of passes. If the paint just peels off, you're likely using too much pressure (or the material isn't dry yet). The friction from the sanding tools can heat up, melt the paint, and peel it off making a bigger ...


1

Check to see if the freezer side is working. Often times the cold air comes from the freezer side via vents/holes going from the freezer to the fridge which can be adjusted. If the freezer side is working and the fridge isn't, it's likely these are completely closed or maybe blocked by items in the freezer covering them. This may not be your exact issue. ...


0

I assume you wiped up the "air freshener", whatever that is, already. If the thing you spilled dissolved the finish and left it rough, then the way to fix it is to get the exact same finish liquid and rub a very small amount of it on the surface and rebuff it. You essentially need to re-build the finish using tiny amounts at a time.


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Check your roof vent for clogging on lint right at the exit. Ideally... your dryer should terminate at the closest point outdoors. I personally on a weekend and a bit of money, would just punch a hole through the wall and vent that way. The longer the run of vent the more resistance the dryer has to overcome. If the tube is the ribbed tubing, that adds a ...


1

There should (must?) be a vent on the roof. If you can get up there, take the hat off of the vent and run a fishtape though the vent. (A fishtape is long, skinny, flexible steel or fiberglass rod that electricians use to run wire through conduit.) Once you've got the fishtape to the other end, tie a nylon rope to the tape and pull it through. After that, ...


6

The rubber / stretchy plastic strap looks like the following when it is installed around the drill cord and attached to the chuck key. A couple of quick pointers: Pull the two holes end through the slotted end first to make the loop around the drill cord. When installing the chuck key insert the longer arm of the key first into its hole and finish with ...


3

The end on the right slips through the end on the left, making a loop around the drill cord. The right end fits over the smaller diameter cross bar arm of your chuck key. (You may have to slide the arm out, insert it into one tab, slide it through the chuck key body, then slip over the other tab of the retainer.



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