New answers tagged

1

I had a similar stain on a counter top with a gloss acrylic type finish that appeared to absorb the printing from a plastic shopping bag. I knew from past experience that any kind of strong base solvent (acetone) will quickly dissolve and strip it, and harsh abrasives scratch. Several ordinary household cleaners did nothing. I tried a simple mix of olive ...


2

Should I be concerned? It's good to be concerned, as many decks are poorly built. Fortunately, most 'cracking' of support columns doesn't affect the integrity at all. This type of cracking is called 'checking' and happens as the wood slowly dries out. Code typically is accommodating of this...hence the 6x6 (as opposed to a 4x4). If you visit an old ...


0

Could be the nylon drum guides have worn through. I think those are inside the front and accessible by removing the front, which is tricky but fairly easy. The sound could also be something (loose screw, sheet metal, shoelace) has worked its way into the mechanism somewhere. Either way, some dis-assembly will provide answers. From the sound, I would ...


-1

Polyurethane caulking works but you will find that sometimes you see that through paint.


0

There are several possibilities. One, that everyone else has been pursuing, is that the lock cylinder itself is binding. If so, lubrication and/or vibration may help loosen it. If you think it might have been super glued, you can try acetone, which dissolves cyanoacrylate glues -- bug it may also dissolve the finish on the lock, and on the door, and on ...


3

Coil Life I'm not sure if how long they "should last" matches most home owners experiences. Looking at many consumer complaint websites showed many users with failure between 5 and 7 years. Recommended Maintenance Didn't Save Me You should always do the recommended maintenance, but in my case maintenance wasn't the problem. I have a 14.5 SEER, 2.5 Ton ...


1

I find that a urethane caulk works wonders in cases like this. It bonds like no other caulk I've used, can be had in a huge variety of custom colors, doesn't shrink much, remains very flexible, and is paintable. I'm most familiar with OSI Quad. Be warned, it's extremely sticky--you won't get it off your clothes, and you'll have to wear it off your skin. It ...


0

There is a butterfly anchor sold at most hardware/home stores. It's a V shape with a nut and a spring at the point of the V. It will fit into a 1" hole and then expand once pushed through the hole to a wider diameter. You may need to drill the diameter of the hole in the standard out to accommodate the larger screw. But these are very strong drywall ...


1

(can't see the images as I am at work) I had a key get stuck in a lock half rotated once. I forget exactly what happed. I believe it has something to do with ability to set the lock for a different key, one of the pieces got jammed. I ended up disassembling the entire lock and reassembling.


2

Graphite lube is better than WD-40 for locks... try a product called lock-ease. Use a rubber mallet and whack it hard many times while turning and jiggling the key. Don't hit the key, when hammering. Keep turning-pressure on the key while hammering and jiggling. Edit- You can use WD-40 in a pinch, if you don't have graphite, but you should then use ...


5

Don't laugh, this may work as I have used it on stuck or cross-threaded bolts and locks. Remember that heat makes metals expand, while cold makes metals contract. Looks like the usual 5-pin tumbler lock. I do not know how the key is stuck, but brass is a soft metal. After long term use the surface can becomes rounded and not move the tumblers correctly. The ...


2

clean the holes out well with vinegar and water. then put epoxy dough in the gaps, smooth and point as well as you can. once cured, drill new holes, but larger diameter and deeper. then use anchoring epoxy (like redhead a7 or c6) to mount threaded rods. attach your gates with nuts and washers and you are done.


1

You removed one side of the jamb, and replaced it with new construction. But, there are 2 problems. the jamb is bowing; the jamb is not deep enough. The old jambs were 5 1/4" and fit perfectly since you have plaster instead of drywall. The new jams are 4 1/2" since they are assuming drywall. Those 2 problems are separate and should be treated as such ...


1

It appears to me you have a brick exterior and a 2x4 wall that gives you a thicker wall. At the very least, you need a jamb for 2x6 walls. That may be wide enough to fit. Then follow the instructions for proper installation. Good,luck!


-1

Jamb is installed poorly. This installation illustration may be helpful to you... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICYwPa5_bFY


0

no - the jamb should be level and square, with the jamb being parallel to the door on all four sides. gap should be about 1/8" on the top, hinge side and strike side, and about 1/4" on the bottom. make sure the sill is dead flat and level first. this is critical for long life. the trick is to mount the hinge side first, then the top, then the strike. ...


1

It's the carpenter's responsibility to properly shim and anchor any door jamb. Unless it's a rigid steel commercial unit, it's not designed to be self-supporting. I usually shim behind each hinge on the hinge side, and at four locations, including the latch position, on the latch side. Use a combination of wedge and flat shims. For an exterior door I ...


1

In lieu of expensive underpinning or buttressing, you could use tie-bars and plates. This method is commonly used to strengthen old brick (or other masonry) structures in areas prone to seismic activity. You would drill through the foundation walls below floor level and run several iron tie-bars all the way through, with gusset plates on the outside. On ...


0

A new garage is like five grand... Foundation work on that building has got to come to at least half that, and then you've still got a rotted liability sitting on top of it. If you're going to do it yourself, you're looking at a hell of lot of work, for a building you'd better be in love with or have historical restrictions on. If the foundation is ...


3

best thing to do is install 3/8 threaded rods immediately below each rung. just drill a 3/8 hole through each stringer such that you can put a threaded rod directly under and touching the bottom of each rung (as close as possible). run the rod through each stringer and then put a large fender washer and nylock nut on the outside of each stringer. the ...


2

The vast amount of stress on vertical (and steeply angled) members is compression, and splits are very common without significant degradation of structural integrity, especially in cedar. Having said that, the break does go pretty far along a notched area, so I would consider reinforcing the piece. I would probably skip the glue and drive a few stainless ...


0

Well, you could add a power resistor to replace the resistance you cut out. You'd have to size it properly. Although, heating elements are not inherently complex or expensive. A replacement element may be affordable.


3

It doesn't matter where the break is. You cannot repair the element without shortening it, which will reduce its resistance, causing it to burn hotter than it is designed to do. If you are very lucky it will just burn out again right away before setting your clothes on fire. Of course the appliance designer allowed some safety margin in the specs, because ...


2

Steel wool and a wire brush with a lot of elbow grease will get the rust off. Once cleaned you can apply a spray can of high heat black paint. The kind I find and buy doesn't have a gloss to it though so getting that shine might require a high heat enamel paint which I'm not aware of being in a spray can at my local stores.


1

Normally,the frame of a prehung door is a bit smaller than the opening. When it is installed, that space allows you to use shims to fine-tune the frame's poisition so it is straight and level snd square even if the opening isn't. Mounting screws are then driven through the shims and into the structural framing to hold the door in that position. Gaps ...


4

The right way to fix this is to have a local engineer size a LVL (laminated veneer lumber) beam for you (solid wood lumber won't meet modern standards for a span that long). It'll likely be taller than your current beam. You'll need to temporarily support all the rafters with a framed wall on each side, using double top plates. Keep them a few feet away from ...


0

Get the Plumber back. He may have just cleaned, flushed &/or adjusted the Mixer & not replaced it. But, it sounds like you have a Pressure-Balancing valve instead of a Thermostatic valve. So yes, see if the Plumber can replace the current valve with a Thermostatic valve, this would be the long-term permanent solution. Just an FYI. Not in all but in ...


1

In general, it is not worth taking apart tools such as a handheld circular saw or drill. There is not much in the way of user-serviceable parts, and doing so may void any warranty you have with the manufacturer. First, I recommend looking up if there are any "consumable" parts such as fuses which are user-serviceable. This may be a quick and easy fix. Your ...



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