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Heavy rains in future will pose a damp wall problem with fungus over the years. Get it fixed promptly. Subfloor adhesive will bond and seal well with overlap and is cheap in large tubes. You can always demand compensation before you do it, but don't expect much.


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Looks like either there's no subfloor under that board, or the subfloor failed (rotted?) in that area. If this is ground floor, it might be worth looking at this area up from the basement or crawl space or whatever's under there, to see what was supposed to be supporting that board and what condition it's in. That's assuming that there was something there. ...


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You did not mention whether the nut was in a blind position or not. A dowel might help to fill the hole but might not deal with the under lying cause. After filling the hole with a dowel (glued in of course), you might want to install a T-Nut on the back side of the new hole that you have to drill. The T-Nut will provide a larger load bearing area to ...


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I would first check that the missing hex nut is the same size as nut on one of the two output jacks. This can be done by removing one and seeing if it fits on the jack with the missing nut. This temporarily removed nut can be used as a sample for comparison when buying a new nut. Nuts of this style should be readily available via online retailers such as ...


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The best way to deal with this is to drill out the holes to a larger size to match a piece of dowel rod. The dowel rods come in standard diameters so select one that is a bit larger than the hole that needs plugging. Cut off the dowel rod to a length that matches the thickness of the door or drawer front. Then use wood glue to completely coat the outside ...


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If you search the web for "repair manual" plus the model of your drier, you may be able to find a copy of that, or a site which will sell you a PDF if it for a few bucks. That will give instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble the drier. To access the timer, that's usually a matter of pulling the knobs off and loosening some screws on the back so ...


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I'm guessing that coiled up wire at the top right is the thermocouple. Do I see a silver tip thing on the end of it? You can splice thermocouple wires if you use ceramic wire nuts, otherwise you have to trace that back to behind the control panel. Here's some good info at Appliance411. I'm not to keen on electric ovens, but with the door open and perhaps a ...


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I doubt you can repair the timer. You need that whole assembly, like this one for about $100. I go to the local parts shop though. Nice having someone to blame if it's the wrong part and somewhere to take it back. Find the model number and get a part (timer) ordered. In the meantime, YouTube for perhaps even your specific model for dismantling instructions.


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Photos would definitely confirm but I believe your Kenmore is manufactured by Whirlpool and has an "open vent" style vent that is not electrically activated. From your description it seems that you already figured out to remove the top 6 T-15 torx screws on the upper inside of the door panel and lower the control panel to reveal the rectangular outer portion ...


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If you want everything to match, replace everything. Otherwise, you will always be chasing trying to immediately match the existing as other pieces of siding degrade in the future. Painting sounds like an option, but in this case, we're talking about painting old wood some of which is reaching the end of its lifecycle. That means in a few years trying to ...


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Best guess is that's cedar, which should be easy enough to find at a home center or cedar dealer. It won't be gray like that when you purchase it but you can leave it outside untreated for a summer or two and it should gray up nicely. There are chemical "graying" agents that you could buy if your in a hurry but I generally find letting nature take its course ...


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I've been able to manually straighten Acme leadscrew stock in the past by bending it down against a rigid surface, and checking its straightness by rolling it along a piece of scrap window glass (guaranteed to be flat). Rinse and repeat until you either bend it to within an acceptable tolerance, or you ruin it and have to buy a new one--which in this case is ...


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Replacing is probably most practical. But if you really want to fix it, you need something to support the weight. Tape and glue aren't going to do it. I would find a length of strong pipe (check the plumbing section at a home improvement store) that will fit nicely either inside the leg (if it is hollow) or over top of it. Make the pipe fill/cover as much ...


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It looks like the problem is not just the grout (which fills the gap between tiles) but also may be the tile adhesive is separating from the supporting structure (possibly plasterboard/drywall). You can remove grout from between tiles using a variety of tools designed for this purpose. Then you can re-apply grout (and sealant if needed) It seems likely ...


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Basically it will never be as strong as new. If you do want to pursue a fix I would suggest rotating (friction) welding with a dremel and plastic filament (preferably identical to the chair). Or, another idea is to cast epoxy resin or polyester.


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See the holes through the pulley face? Insert the heftiest screwdriver, steel rod, or what-have-you which fits and rest that against the biggest thing below it which does not turn. Use that to prevent the pulley from turning. Probably, you'll have to dedicate one hand to that while loosening. Look carefully at the exposed thread. The photo is not clear ...


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Is there anything under the pulley that you an get any purchase on the bolt to stop it rotating while you undo the nut? If you have (or have access to) an impact wrench, they can often shift stuck nuts that seem to require an inordinate amount of force with a socket or spanner.


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I think that probably depends upon where you live, and what type of stone that fieldstone is. If it's dense nonporous fieldstone, you could remove most of the loose stuff near the surface and have a contractor shoot the foundation with gunite. If it's porous fieldstone, though, that'd be the worst thing in the world for you - gunite is essentially nonporous ...


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Without photos, it's pretty difficult to answer your questions completely, but... the black stain can usually be removed with oxalic acid ("wood bleach"). As to the bowing along the seam... very often that sort of thing will return to more-or-less its original shape if allowed to dry really thoroughly. I'd leave that one alone until the Witching Hour. The ...


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I see no benefit to cutting a section out of the wall before patching it up. You don't say how old your house is, but in the houses I've lived in that are nearing 100 years or so, the plaster can weaken to the point you can pull it apart with your fingers if you damage the surface somewhere. If that is indeed a coat of plaster/insulation on top of the ...



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