New answers tagged repair
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Danish oil, like linseed and tung oil, can take up to a month for fully cure (from inside, out). Too old an oil may also turn tacky (surface dried but oil-in-wood hasn't).
The cure for either is a mineral spirit or turpentine wipe down, several times, spanning several days. Don't recoat until you don't smell the finish at the surface.
Then, recoat with a ...
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If you are going to regrout the pieces that came off, you should use thinset.
If you are going to grout with silicone, you could affix the loose tiles with silicone. I don't like silicone for use in wet areas, once moisture gets behind it, the area never dries out. With grout/thinset, moisture can escape. Sealing grout is like using a moisture ...
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Scrape off all the old adhesives then use Liquid Nails on the back. Pre-drill, countersink, and screw it into the door. You can use caulk, liquid nails, or wood filler to fill in over screw holes and then re-prime and paint.
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Do you have a picture of the actual damage?
Ceramics are used because nothing else will stand the heat which means that glue or tape will turn to smoke.
And yes it is an insulator which means that it keeps bad things from happening, you do not want anything arcing to ground if it fails.
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Oxalic acid, either in crystal form or as part of a pressure treated deck cleaner/brightner will chemically dissolve the stain. If you use the crystals, use all normal precautions for acids (eye, hand, clothing). You can sparingly apply with a small nylon artists brush. Try 5 min increments (5 on, wipe off, 10 on, wipe off) until the stain starts to ...
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I suspect you could.. well, you could make your own using cut up gift cards or credit cards. It won't be as nice as the originals, but I think the plastic would be the right material.
Could you put up a photo of the groove this snaps into?
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Depends on why its cracking..
Were trusses used for the roof construction? Many problems are caused by wind and truss "uplift" The solution for this problem is a special, movable joint. No nails or screws are used within 18" of interior wall's top plates. Special clips are used that allow movement.
Building Sciences Corporation report on truss ...
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Should be OK
Whenever you change the oil, you have to tip it anyway to get the old oil out.
Your going to have to let it sit for a little bit, might be hard to start up at first and smoke a good bit whenever it does start, but it'll be fine.
Flip it up so you can see under the deck, make sure the blade isn't loose. Just grab it and move up and down.
Right ...
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Dishwasher drain airgap.
It's placed above maximum sink full water level to prevent siphoning grey-water from the sink into the dishwasher if the P-trap ever gets plugged and you try to empty a full sink.
If water is spewing or leaking from the overflow slots in the cover, either the outflow from the airgap into the sink drain has become clogged ...
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Caulking should be sealing. If it isn't you are using the wrong kind of caulk or your area was prepped wrong.
The question is like asking if you need to put an extra coat on if it is cold outside.
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You need a 100% silicone clear caulk and since it is near a sink I would get something that is mold resistant.
Silicone for the sink to counter binding and its flexibility with temperature change.
Clear because you don't want to have staining issues down the road. Also if you need to add caulk down the road - clear matches clear.
GE Silicone II
I have ...
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For the joint between the counter top and the tiles, you can use any flexible, preferably mold resistant, caulking from your local hardware store.
You should also be able to find it in a color that matches your grout.
For the joint between the sink and the bench, I use a clear, waterproof, flexible one.
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The leakage all over the freezer sounds like a bad solenoid valve on the water line. At least on my freezer it's located near where the water comes in, and is not too difficult to replace. There's probably a 'how to' page somewhere on the internet for your particular model.
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The general answer to this is "read the instructions". Each product has different drying times. I did a Google search for "Quick drying caulking" and the first product that came up was a DAP product claiming "ready to paint in 30 minutes".
I would not recommend trying to speed up the process with heat.
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The tube of caulk should include drying and curing times. It will vary based on the product so you definitely want to go by the manufactures recommendation and not some general guideline you find on the web somewhere.
You are not the only person who does not want to have to wait a day or two before using their sink and bathtub and the caulk manufacturers ...
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I have never heard of this recommendation. If you are caulking an area that will regularly be exposed to water (sink, shower, etc.) I use a silicone caulk. Silicone caulk is 100% waterproof so there is no need to add any extra sort of sealer.
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Make sure this is a bug, and not a feature
When the vacuum is in the upright position, the agitator should not rotate. When the handle is lowered the agitator should be engaged, however, some models offer a manual agitator shut off feature. Make sure if your model has this feature, it is not turned on.
Check the hose
Next ensure that when you ...
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I would strongly encourage you to replace this unit (the Siemens component, not the entire AC) and replace the ends to those electrical wires. Simply put if the rust situation is that terrible I wouldn't be at all surprised if the integrity of the unit is already compromised, i.e. ready to fail you at any time. Your yellow wire is almost certainly why it's ...
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I don't have HVAC experience but here's a few ideas you could investigate
Repair
For the wires, it might be best to cut off the corroded connectors strip a short part of insulation and crimp on new connectors.
For the spade terminals on the various devices you could use a wire brush to remove as much corrosion as possible.
Prevention
To prevent future ...
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IMO that amount of rust is not normal. I live in Texas and it gets really humid sometimes. I've repaired both my last unit that was 8+ years old and my new unit that is 4+ years old and neither had any rust whatsoever inside the enclosure. Just ants and spiders for me.
I'd imagine that your relay is having trouble closing. After turning off the power you ...
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Home appliance - an electrical device you can buy in a shop and use in your home by inserting a power plug into a wall power outlet.
Personal appliance - presumably a small hand-holdable electrical appliance designed for use by one person - for the benefit of one person not the whole household (e.g. hair-dryer, mp3 player)
White goods - large domestic ...
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Since I don't have a copy of Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), I began by browsing through International Residential Code (IRC). I came across section 3303, which says:
2012 International Residential Code (IRC)
SECTION P3303 SUMPS AND PUMPING SYSTEMS
P3303.1.4 Piping. Discharge piping shall meet the requirements of Sections P3002.1,
P3002.2, ...
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I just replaced the main stack in my house. Went from cast iron to pvc. I dug out about 10 foot in my basement to connect the pvc to the clay piping that goes out to my front yard.
I used a bigger version of this coupling to marry the pvc to the clay and it is buried underground and under concrete.
Inspector told me that they only start allowing these ...
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Plan A) I'd try to remove the glue, fill the holes†, let it set and then re-drill the holes
Plan B) Use repair plates designed for this job Example
Plan C) If all fails I'd spend $10 on one of these, put it in my old electric drill's chuck and relocate the hinges.
† Using maybe something like an "Interior Wood Filler that holds screws and nails".
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This is certainly fixable, although not a trivial thing to do.
Option one is trying to use the same holes. You can use plastic concrete anchors that are used to drive screws into concrete. You'll have to drive the anchor into the hole and cut off the remaining part. Then you can drive a wood screw into there and that will secure the hinge. I tried this ...
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