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5

I agree that the best solution here is tell your landlord, provided you have a reasonable one. What does your lease say about routine maintenance? Chances are if you weren't doing chinups on it, you shouldn't be charged. However, if you've had a previous experience with this landlord in which they've proved to be unreasonable, you could attempt to fix it ...


4

As a home inspector, I can tell you that sheer existence of those damaged joists are going to be a RED FLAG at any time you decide to sell and move on. If they are badly burned, they are not structurally sound and should be removed. Install a few temp supports on ends of adjacent joists, then remove and replace them one or two at a time. Use proper joist ...


3

I see that you have posted two questions about this situation. I fear you have to address a couple of problems here. First and foremost is to try to route water away from this area. We can address this in another segment with more info on the area in question. As far as the immediate problem, I am pretty sure you will have to remove the damaged sections of ...


2

Sad to say, the pot-metal piece attached to the wall broke, and it's likely hard to find the right replacement part. The proper person to call in a case like this is your landlord. If it broke without unreasonable force, you should not be charged. The landlord owns the property and has the right to choose the time and manner of repair (she/he may not want ...


2

Remove the tank, re-dope the pipe or wrap it in teflon tape, and reconnect the tank. You'll want to shut the water off first as gregmac aptly suggested; ideally there is a shutoff valve on both sides of the tank, otherwise the water in your house will drain out at low pressure. If you only have one, you'll want to relieve the downstream pipes of water ...


1

What I have done on my 1909 house (I am in the U.S.) in the same exact situation is clear a wider area of the lath and plaster and replace it with drywall. To do that, you will need to add some padding over the studs because the lath&plaster is thicker than 1/2" -- what I did was pad it with 3/8" plywood, then drywall over plywood to achieve ...


1

Shirlock's advice is good but I want to add a few things: You need to regrade plus move spout out. However I think you have more than a standing water problem. The water damage is pretty high up and it is pointing me to thinking that your gutters are not functioning . I think your flashing may not be tucked over the gutters or something else. We don't ...


1

I am going to guess this picture is taken looking down onto the top of the lower sash of a double hung window? The wood I see at the bottom of the picture is the wood flooring a number of feet lower? If so you can drill out the pop rivets on both halves of the sash lock and replace both halves with a new unit that resembles yours as close a possible. They ...


1

I'd use veneer plaster. Your instinct about joint compound and spackling is on target, and you might get Plaster of Paris to work if you get the mix perfect - but why bother. My guess is that the people you've been talking to at hardware stores either don't have a clue what you are looking for or want to direct you to something in stock. I'd check at a ...


1

First I would not paint it unless you start noticing a little rust. Better to give it an inspection every once in a while. If you do paint it, I would go with an automotive engine enamel. (it requires a long dry time)



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