New answers tagged repainting
You are going to need to use a sharp tool such as a very sharp chisel or a straight blade razor scraper. I prefer a very sharp chisel as I feel it gives me better control. It is not going to be easy, but as carefully as you can cut down and sideways from the painted area. The idea will be to cut the hump of dried paint off without too much damage to the ...
Typically I scrape off any caulk that is still on the surface, when that is done, sand down the worst high spots with a sanding block and 80 grit sandpaper. To finish it off give the area a skim coat of drywall mud to feather in the rest of the edge left by the build up of paint. Sand with 100-120 grit sandpaper, prime and paint. If the texture you speak of ...
The right way, is the hard way, as always. Remove all the paint off the wall, using a scraper, or a heat torch, or a paint remover. Sand paper all the wall. Remove all the dust from the wall and wipe it clean. Do many layers of sealer or primer. Let it dry for 24 hours. Do many layers of good quality paint. Let it dry for 24 hours.
I have used a top coat of Parks Super Glaze in high traffic areas. It is shiny but it finishes off really nice and the stuff is really hard after a day or two. There are other similar products as this but I have not used them recently.
I like the hardness of enamels. Oil based trim paint or the newer water borne oils are quite tough.
I would come at this from a couple of different directions. First, I would look at what the estimate includes for prep work. This should include scraping, sanding, and caulking everything, and doing it well. Multiple coats of the best paint you can buy are not going to last that long if the surface is not prepared well. Multiple coats can make up for ...
I don't really know what cheapest paint vs. thicker paint means. I am assuming that the cheaper paint is still a good paint if this is a company using it - not just some guy with cheap paint. So I am making an assumption. I am also assuming that the three levels all involve the same Day 1 finished look of the house because really if you are paying them ...
Given the direct flame exposure, and that the flames are actually quite a bit hotter than BBQ paint is rated for (1950C for natural gas, 2392C for propane) I'd suggest sticking to clean, coat with vegetable oil (wipe on a thin layer) and bake. This makes a pretty good finish, and does not involve anything that's not going to happen in normal food preparation ...
Yes you can paint them with high heat BBQ grill paint. You can find this paint at any hardware store, walmart or lowes etc. It is rated for 1400 degrees normally. Be aware, however, that the surface in contact with your pans will wear off fairly quickly. I personally would paint the grates, then burnish the paint off where it makes contact with the pans so ...
Yes, the paint on the range grills is only rated to 950 degrees (hence why you aren't suppose to put them in the self cleaning oven).
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