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3

Yes, that's probably fine. Assuming the tabs connecting the two screw terminals on each side of your outlet are intact, the outlet is being used both as a receptacle and to join those wires. Simply connect the wires (including grounds) directly using wire nuts and remove the outlet, then install a blank face plate. Make sure the location remains accessible, ...


2

Based solely on typical building practices and my assumptions about your home^, the green wall is likely not load-bearing and can be removed. The doorways can almost certainly be exchanged, providing that you implement the same structural header arrangement that the existing door has now. It's unlikely that there's a post in that location, though there may ...


2

Normally you would use floor scraper machine, hand held, MK Diamond 14 Amp 1.5 HP Manual Floor Scraper 167676. You might be able to go to a tool rental location as they may have these, we use Sun Belt Tool Rentals here, but there are others. These mechanical scrapers are loud and create heat to scrape the carpet in strips, you may need another machine to ...


1

Depending on the kind of glue (ie., those cheap, self adhereing tiles), a heat gun (or maybe a hair dryer) could help (do not use heat in conjunction with paint thinner). Also, many tiles use water based glues... which you could use on concrete, but if you have wood subfloor, you don't want to (water) damage the wood. Alternative: For the amount of work, ...


2

If it is vinyl sheet flooring, I pulled up as much as possible to get to the layer the glue is bonded to and used paint remover. It soaked through the layers, softened the glue where I could use a 4" drywall taping knife to remove it to the subfloor.


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I've just bought the same unit and done exactly that.. I've been scratching my head on this for a number of hours then I came across this and I tried it with the back of a metal keyring (credit card size) to apply pressure and both screws have come out ok and have been screwed in now as per instructions.. I'm glad I came across this now and it does work


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(after slicing the paint/caulk seam...) A wooden shingle slid behind a small prybar (http://www.hardwareworld.com/SharkGrip-Prybar-~-8-pGJXJX8.aspx) is ideal. It also helps to find the studs and use the prybar over them because 1) that's where the nails in the molding are most likely to be, and hence lessen the chance of damaging the trim 2) the ...


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Cut the paint line / caulk line on the top and sides with a utility knife. To pry, put a metal blade drywall knife against the drywall. On that, use a small pry bar to get behind the top of the trim. (You might have to gently tap the pry bar into the gap with a hammer.) Assuming you're re-using the trim, pull the nails through the back of the trim with a ...



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