New answers tagged removal
remove about 1/8".. should be fine
this works fine http://www.rona.ca/en/paint---silicone-remover you may have to find a supplier of it or something like it near you. it takes a lot of time and patience on brick, and you will have to reapply it many times to get it all off, but if you are patient, it removes all traces of silicones.
For half inch, the fitting itself takes a 3/4 wrench in the middle, and the tube takes a 5/8 wrench. I used a monkey wrench on the fitting, and a 5/8 wrench pushing on the plastic tool. I could have skipped the tool and used that wrench to push the release ring. I could do this by hand but with this set-up I could squeeze the two wrenches firmly together ...
I think there are multiple factors that contribute to this effect but I think one has not been mentioned. One other way to get a stuck bolt to release is to shock it by hitting it sharply. Generally this is something you do something large like a valve but I think the underlying problem is the same. For rust, I would expect that this can shatter the ...
@Vladimir Cravero (sorry not enough rep to enter a comment)... I think clarification of the answer is needed. The nut isn't expanding "more", it ends up larger but the % increase is the same. r = 1.5*(1+500*10-5) mm = 1.5075 mm R = 1.501*(1+500*10-5) mm = 1.508505 mm start after heat increase amt % inc bolt 1.5 ...
The answer is surprisingly simple: the bolt expands, but the nut expands more. What is happening here is good old thermal expansion: The bolt is heated and expands outwards, its radius increasing The nut is heated and... expands outwards, its radius increasing Now, since the nut's radius is slightly greater than the bolt's, and since the increase is ...
In my experience, you have to heat a frozen bolt until it is blistering, red hot and getting soft, and remove it while it is hot and soft. Heating the bolt and allowing it to cool has never helped me. As the metal contracts, the bolt seizes; it usually doesn't loosen... it probably makes the situation worse. The same is true for drinking glasses that have ...
The actual reason this usually works is that rust is significantly larger than the steel it's rusted from, which is why the bolt is stuck in the first place. In some other instances the reason heat works is that the bolt was applied with a threadlocker that requires heating to remove (if it comes out with no sign of rust, that's a pretty good bet) Many ...
Metal arranged in a ring expands outward when heated. Imagine a ring of thin wire being heated--it expands primarily along its length, making both the inner and outer diameters larger. The same occurs with the material around a bolt hole. Generally, I try to heat the surrounding piece and not the bolt itself. However, even if the bolt is heated directly, ...
The secret is constrained expansion. Here's some cruddy diagrams to help explain how it works. Bolt stuck in a hole When the bolt is heated, it expands. Since the shaft of the bolt is constrained, it can't expand inside the hole. The bolt expands in the direction of the green arrow, but cannot expand in the direction of the red arrows. As the bolt ...
You have no sledge hammer, no power tools, and it's too heavy to pick up? That leaves you with zero options that do not require or produce an explosion. Besides someone taking it of your hands, which is unlikely, seems to me, the simplest solution to dig a sufficient hole and just bury it.
If it is a nice looking rock or has a particular shape, place it on Craig's list as a free item. I listed four 5" Blue Spruce trees I needed to remove to make way for a garage. Gone over the weekend and I didn't have to lift a hand.
Obtain a chisel with a rubber protector around the top, (more contact points and less chance of hitting yourself.) Proceed to hit this chisel with a rubber mallet or other leverage-providing, hard-ended object. By nature of the chisel's inclined plane, forward motion will cause the rock to crack and split along the business end's edges. Depending on the kind ...
Without (electrical) power tools, or a sledgehammer: Here are 10 options besides a hammer or Fire-setting... mentioned in almost every post (but more specifically, for best results use at least 300 lbs of wood or 100 lbs of wood and 20 lbs of bbq briquettes; let it burn overnight and then (in the morning) dump 15-20 gallons of ice-cold water on it.) Option ...
If it's in a place that safe to do so, build a fire around it. Let it get very hot. Dump ice water on it. It will shatter. Source: My dad was a farmer and he told me this a long time ago.
There exist expanding compounds like this one: Ecobust, which are poured into predrilled holes and expand as they dry, splitting the stone (or concrete). It does require a power tool, unless there are already some cracks in your boulder, but a cordless hammer drill should be sufficient.
Use a crowbar and put another rock under it so that sections of it are unsupported. Now whack it with the sledgehammer a few times. If you get lucky, it will have a crack in it and you can break it into pieces. Otherwise you can knock off sections from the end. Worst case, use the plug and feathers approach described above. Another technique is to make ...
You can go at it with a sledgehammer (or a smaller hand sledge) and a star drill, and then drive wedges into the holes (or if you are patient, fill the holes with water and let them freeze in the winter.) There are special wedges designed for use in round holes for splitting rock (feathers and wedges seems to find them). ...
Use a pancake air compressor and a air chisel with a wide chisel blade. Use ear protection, knee pads and goggles! No gum mess or chemicals to clean up. Lowes sales the air chisel for $30.00. I already had the wide chisel blade. You can rent, beg, borrow or steal the pan cake compressor ( stealing should be your last option) 😀.
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