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30

The short answer is to check with the manufacturer. That way you can be sure to stay within warranty guidelines. The longer answer is that it varies from model to model. When a refrigerator is placed in a non-standard position (for example on its side), compressor oil can run out of the compressor and up refrigerant lines. So if you don't stand it ...


13

When you short cycle the compressor like that it's the worst thing an owner can do to shorten the lifespan of it's compressor. The refrigerator compressor uses oil to lubricate the pump. This pump runs very hot. The oil becomes dirtier and dirtier as it travels through the refrigerator tubes and clogs the refrigerant paths making it impossible for the ...


13

The oil is part of the coolant. Changing the coolant isn't a common task for home owners because of the specialized equipment required.


12

Use a light bulb. Besides being more than capable of dissipating the power, it has the bonus of telling you when the capacitor is empty since the light will go out. The best way is to use a spare light socket and touch the two wires to the capacitor leads. Lacking a socket, some wire and electrical tape will do the trick if you're careful.


11

Most refrigerators have adjustable feet that can be "unscrewed" in order to level the fridge. All you need to do is "unscrew" these feet until the wheels are slightly off the floor.


7

You should be using an insulated shorting probe to properly discharge that capacitor. There are special shorting probes made for this purpose, but the only ones I've seen online are for really large applications (like attached to a hot stick type large). When I was in the Navy we had some nice handheld sized ones for using inside equipment cabinets. ...


7

An alternative is that the freezer ran for so long that the air vent from the freezer to the fridge has frozen over with ice, so no cold air can get from the freezer to the fridge. Ironically, you need to warm up the freezer for the ice to melt.


7

A fridge motor is controlled by a thermostat - a device that reacts to temperature inside the fridge. So fridge motor starts/stops are completely agnostic to whether the fridge is level, the only practical consequence of fridge being non-level is extra noise. The most likely reason for fridge motor running too often are the following: loose gasket around ...


6

Are you on a city water system, or a well? Do you get the film from your tap? If not, then it's something in the water line to the fridge, or in the filter. In my whirlpool fridge, the "reservoir" for the chilled water is simply a coiled up roll of the plastic tubing. Clean out the fridge, and take a look at that to see if you can see any obvious ...


6

Well, even if they find the problem they are still going to charge you 30$+parts+install time= a colossal waste of time and money. I've owned a numerous array of mini fridges and none of them last much longer than 2 years, the workmanship on these just isn't worth fixing. Unless the fix is something you can readily check, like a reset button, I'd cut you ...


6

If you're up for it, I would install a valve in the wall while you have the water shut off. When you're done, you'll have a separate shutoff for the fridge and your bathroom available again. To make it look nice, I'd go for a valve box that you mount in the wall:


6

I would minimize the amount you bend them. Think of it like a metal coat hanger, if you bend it in the same place several times, it will break. Only the copper pipe is hollow, so it will break a lot sooner. As best you can, avoid bending it multiple times in the same place.


6

After cleaning it well, put a piece of coal in the freezer; this will remove any smells from it within few hours, maybe a day. I used to put a mid-sized piece of coal inside the refrigerator all the time. This was a piece of advice from my mother and always worked.


6

Make sure that the pipe is inserted into the valve as far as it will go before you tighten the compression fitting - it would only slip out if not properly tightened against the ferrule. Two other recommendations: Get rid of the piercing saddle valve and install a ball valve (1/4 turn) that has either a compression fitting or is soldered in place. Scrap ...


6

An open ground is not in and of itself a problem. Grounds are there to dump excess voltage in case something goes wrong. If all our appliances worked properly all the time, there'd be no need for ground. So what you have is two problems: Your fridge has a bare wire rubbing against the frame or other electrical short, And, the safety device meant to ...


6

What about rubber furniture cups? If they are not deep enough, you could cut a channel in the center to set the fridge leg/wheel deeper.


6

The water line to the fridge is most likely 1/4" OD tube (either copper to plastic). It would connect to the fridge with a 1/4" Compression by 3/8" Male Iron Pipe Thread adaptor. If this is the case, when you go to remove the line from the fridge, loosen the compression nut until the tube can be removed from the adaptor fitting. The unscrew the adaptor ...


6

Easy, cheap option would be to use shims. These are most often used to plumb door jambs, but of course have a ton of uses in construction. Once you put them in and figure out how far they have to go, mark them and then you can take them out and cut off the excess (either with a hand saw or by scoring with a knife).


5

Yes. If the device has separate compressors for the fridge and freezer then it's perfectly possible for one to fail and the other keep working. Generally the cheaper the fridge/freezer the more likely it is to only have a single compressor.


5

Here's an outside the box idea (which assumes that your main problem is that it wakes you up): Get one of those timer plugs like they have for holiday lights and let it "unplug" your fridge while you sleep. You'll need a beefy one to handle the compressor spike when it kicks on (check the ratings on the timer plugs and compare it to the max rating of your ...


5

Two thoughts from this peanut in the gallery: Make sure whatever timer you have is designed to handle the load being pulled by the refrigerator. I'm pretty sure this is one of the top power users in the house, behind any heating systems (dryer, oven, electric heaters) and probably behind a central AC system. Using a cheap timer designed for a lamp would ...


5

You can get the smaller refrigerator, and use the extra space to create shelves for bootles. this way you could have refrigerated wine and not refrigerator next to each other. The shelves would be made to hold individual bottles. Like this:


5

I don't see the harm in adding the ground wire. All neutral wires end up going to the neutral bar in the main panel that is mounted directly on the metal box just like ground wires are mounted directly a ground bar that is mounted to the box. Sub-panels are different having an isolated neutral bar but everything goes back to the main. House panels here in ...


5

You will need a compression fitting for both ends if you don't already have them. Often the fridges will come with a plastic supply line but I always like to replace it with a copper one as they last longer and are less prone to damage. You might also want to verify the valve works correctly. If it is a piercing-type valve, the often fail and should be ...


5

In North America, standard main supply lines are 3/4" and branch lines are 3/4" or 1/2". The best way to the connect the fridge supply is to put in a T and a shut-off valve with a 1/4" compression connector. The exact valve you need depends on what your supply line is made of (eg, copper or pex). Another alternative is to use a Saddle Valve. These often ...


5

Keeping the fridge full of stuff may stabilize the temperature and reduce the number of times the compressor turns on and off.


4

There's a lot of good advice here on cleaning the inside of the fridge. One thing I'd like to add: Don't forget to periodically clean the fridge's coils. The coils are typically found underneath or on the back of the fridge, and are meant to dissipate the heat. The coils will, over time, get blocked with dust etc. and the fridge runs less efficiently as a ...


4

Sorry to have wasted people's time, but I did learn a lot. The technician came, and the answer was that the valve was defective. The inner parts should have been clamped tightly around the lip during the manufacturing process.


4

This may be normal. According to the manual.



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