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47

With the power off at the breaker, and verified with a non-contact tester, I've always just used a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the rim of the bulb base and turn it to remove. If the bulb is really stuck you might try spraying some WD40 around it. A similar alternative, as others have mentioned in the comments, is to expand a pair of pliers inside of ...


29

In a pinch, if you lack a bulb remover, you can use a potato to remove a broken light bulb. Essentually, you just cut it to a size that'll fit into the socket, but engage with whatever's left of the broken bulb, then twist. This youtube video illustrates the technique.


29

Take a piece of duct tape and wrap it in the shape of an "O", with the sticky side of the tape on the outside. Stick the loop of tape to the face of the light bulb such that it is secure. Put your hand (four fingers) inside the loop and twist counterclockwise to loosen the bulb. Credit: https://youtu.be/NNGyhRu7c0I?t=2m


18

Get a light bulb changer pole at your local home improvement store or your favorite hardware store. The ones with suction cups are best for flood lights, where the face of the bulb is a little flatter, but might have a tougher time gripping smaller, rounder light bulbs where you need something that can fit up inside the fixture and grip the sides of the ...


12

I've never been all that comfortable with @Steven's solution, as it's hard to be sure the power to the light is off when the bulb is broken so you can check, unless you shut off the whole house (or the circuits are actually really well labeled.) Pull-chain switched lights and 3-way switched lights are particularly difficult in this regard. So I bought a ...


12

National Electrical Code is pretty clear on this, at least as of the 2014 version. It says that if the fixture is above the tub or shower, and within 8 ft. vertically from the top of the bathtub rim or shower threshold, the fixture must be rated for damp locations. If the fixture may be subject to shower spray, it has to be rated for wet locations. If it ...


10

Unless there are other restrictions such as clearance to framing members or insulation or open space above them you can use them. "New construction" is when the framing is open and not covered by drywall*; the fixture is typically attached to a framing member. As opposed to "old work" which is where it's closed on both sides and you're going through a ...


9

You need to consider many factors. Beam angle: spot (narrow) vs flood (wide), and everything in between The wider the angle, the farther apart the spacing can be without creating dark spots on the wall Direct vs indirect light: is the light facing the wall, so the room is actually lit by light reflecting off the wall, or are the lights directly lighting ...


9

There's a company that makes suction cup hooks/hangers. You put the suction cup on an object and swing the hook. I'll bet you could attach one of these to the glass and use it to unscrew the bulb. I found this on Amazon. Edit: if the bottom of the bulb is highly curved, this won't work. The surface has to be flat or only slightly curved.


8

According to this site: R20 bulbs have reflectors that direct light forward and produce more narrow soft-edged beam that is less precise than PAR20 bulbs. R20 bulbs also produce less shadow than PAR20 bulbs. PAR20 bulbs control light more precisely and produce more concentrated light than R20. Source: ...


8

PAR = Parabolic Aluminized Reflector. The number is the diameter of the bulb times 8, so divide by 8 to get its diameter. Thus, a PAR30 is a 3.75" diameter bulb. Our last house had PAR30 floods in track lighting in the living room (a style that was all the rage when the house was built in the 1980s). You can use them indoors. The quality of light you get ...


8

Another trick is to pull the trim out with the bulb but not all trims connect the same. Some use springs, some clip into a socket, while others are sealed. But usually works for me because I do it all the time.


7

IC or Insulated Ceiling or Insulation Contact are required for can lights that touch the insulation. You cannot use a non-IC can by moving or cutting the insulation back the 3 inches required to use a non-IC can. Inspectors see insulation and they expect to see the silver cans, which is what an IC can would look like. The airtight cans are designed to use ...


7

The 3" clearance clause is referring to clearance to insulation. However, no inspector will OK these if they are near insulation, even if you were to push it 3" away. If you are installing in an insulated space you must use IC (insulation-contact) rated cans. I've done this a couple times now (installed about 35 pots in my house) and it still takes me ...


7

Due to the lack of adequate answers, I decided to research the differences myself and provide an answer to the benefit of the community. PAR Type Lamps From a build quality and light control standpoint, PAR type lamps are generally considered superior. The explicit parabolic nature of the reflector means light is more precisely reflected directly out of ...


7

Use oven mitts with silicone grips Works like magic for opening light fixtures, changing light bulbs, opening jars, and so on. If you don't have silicone oven mitts, you can try a silicone baking mat. Just push the mat against the face of the light bulb and unscrew it.


6

If you've got insulation in the ceiling, you'll need to get IC (insulation contact) rated fixtures -- they're also known as closed-can. I have a small soffet built over my sink; if yours is similar, make sure that the fixture you select will fit. Other than that, don't exceed the wattage for the fixture and you'll be OK. EDIT: On second thoughts, use an ...


6

I have those exact cans and they are adjustable. Take out the bulb and remove the trim. Inside you will see two or three wing nuts. Loosen these and raise the level of base to the desired location. If the base is raised all the way up, then indeed your bulbs are too long for the trim you have selected. Also note that every trim adds a different depth as ...


6

There are a number of variables you need to consider in order to space them correctly. First, how much light do you want? Brighter rooms require more lights. Related to this is the max wattage of your cans. You will need more 35W lights to achieve the same brightness you'd get with 50W cans. What type of spread (angle of light ) do the bulbs you plan on ...


5

Good question. Yes, it's likely that you have to replace everything. This is one of the downsides of recessed lighting... most of the time the wires from the service tie-in are contained inside a housing or inside of a conduit. It's not weird at all to have it be like that... there are very few can light fixtures where this is not the case (due to fire ...


5

There really isn't any downside that I'm aware of. Bulbs are a concern, although that applies to any type of light: are they readily available? Can you get them from your local big box store, or do you have to resort to a speciality lighting store, though special order, or from some obscure site on the internet? Regardless of light size, providing the ...


5

I personally would abandon them for something with better requirements - there's a reason that IKEA stuff is low in price, and that reason is compromises. For instance, the GORM shelving units are strong and flexible, but take a while to assemble and are kinda ugly. In this case it looks like the compromise is the required spacing. My guess is that the heat ...


5

Cove or crown molding that is below (free from) the ceiling by 2-4 Inches will give a subdued look. I would place the strip on the wall just below the aperture of the molding (that slit exposed by lowering the molding). Some installations I've seen use a separate wall trim that angles the light strip up..IE attach a wooden strip behind and below the crown, ...


5

Four inch and six inch recessed fixtures consist of two main parts - the can and the trim. They need to match. The first issue will be getting the old can out. If it is old-work style, it may be held in just by pressure clips on the sides, fairly easy to remove. If it is new-work style, it will be attached to framing members, either directly or with a brace ...


4

Does the lighting have to be on the ceiling? I'm thinking you might want to go with wall sconces.


4

To be truthful, I'm not sure about the exact model you are using, but several of the Halo recessed cans have adjustable sockets. Look up inside and determine if the socket assembly is fixed by a couple of thumb screws on a slide rail. If so you can loosen them and set the bulb socket deeper into the fixture. Usually a Par 30 bulb is perfect for these types ...


4

The fixtures you linked to are absolutely fine for new construction sheetrock ceilings. If you are going to use suspended acoustical tile then you will need a different model fixture that mounts directly to the tiles, not the floor joists. In either case, you can lamp them with CFL bulbs which will burn cooler, less electricity. The only disadvantage to ...


4

That socket can be replaced. It has two tiny screws from the back side to hold it in. The trick here is to get the right socket and get one that is pre-wired with lengths of wire to feed down the 3/8" flex whip to the junction box on the light. I am looking for that same exact socket, in large numbers. Good luck


4

While this is not really a diy type question, I'll give it a go. First I take integrated as a screw-in self ballasted cfl and a non-integrated is a cfl with 2 or 4 pins made to go in a fixture designed for that lamp. To answer your first question about new construction, some states have laws saying you have to use the fluorescent ballasted fixtures (for ...


4

There is a category of power tool called a multi-tool that is basically a very small saw usefull in cutting in tight spaces. After you cut the initial hole, this tool could be used to trim away the area in the uper section on an angle to make room for your retaining arms. The tools come in corded and cordless version, and at various price points. The ...



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