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You can use most types of conduit outdoors, though some will require liquidtight fittings. Cost wise, and due to the ease of use, I'd recommend schedule 80 PVC conduit. As long as you use the proper size conduit and boxes, you can indeed run all the circuits through the same conduit. If you used 14 AWG THWN conductors (15 ampere circuit), you could ...


According to the 2014 version of the National Electrical Code, all 120 volt, single phase, 15 and 20 ampere receptacles in dwelling units, serving coutertop surfaces are required to have ground-fault protection for personnel. So any other kitchen receptacle, would not require GFCI protection. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 2 Wiring and ...


Get a big load, like a space heater or an old-school theatrical spotlight. Plug it into each outlet in question and measure the voltage between neutral and ground. If there's no difference, it's bootlegged. If there is a significant difference, then it's probably done right.


The best way to check for the bootleg ground, is to open up one of the boxes and look at how the receptacle is wired. Since the grounded (neutral) and grounding conductors are bonded at the service equipment, they should always be at about the same voltage potential. If you had a long circuit, and an accurate meter, you might be able to measure a slight ...


The likelihood of coming across 0.0 volts AC on a properly wired system is not great. So if you check them and do find 0.0 volts, it would warrant some investigation.


According to the registered trademark on file with the USPTO, the "Decora" name was first used commercially in 1973. However it's certainly possible that shape was used before the marketing name was trademarked.


According to Leviton Decora became popular in the 1970s. The New York Times from February 8, 1976 (page 118) has a picture of a Decora light switch.


If A and B are the wires coming from the breaker, they should be connected to the LINE terminals of the GFCI. C and D; that go off to serve other loads, should be connected to the LOAD terminals. If when connected properly, the GFCI will not reset. It means that the GFCI device is dead, and needs to be replaced. Since C & D are "floating", the 5.5 ...


It sounds like the GFCI outlet itself is bad. Replace it. It's certainly the easiest thing to do. If that doesn't work, then you probably have a problem with the wire between the outlet and the breaker panel. Look for breaks, scorches, corrosion, etc. I guess A and B is input line whilst C and D is output line to other outlets You are likely correct. A ...


That you have voltage between A and D would indicate that you have, what we used to call in the phone business, a high resistance open. One of the outlets downstream from your GFCI outlet has (probably) corrosion (high resistance) between neutral (white) and ground. This will cause a ground fault and trip the GFCI. The light being on on the GFCI indicates a ...


When researching how to wire my new workshop last year, I found where "pigtailing" to supply each device was highly recommended, not to mention a lot of extra work. This seems to be a good example of why you want the ability to isolate each and every device and have the ability to disconnect any one device and not lose power downstream. The faulty stretch is ...


Absolutely, as long as you place the load wires going to the downstream receptacles onto the LOAD terminals of the GFCI receptacle. A GFI does NOT need an equipment grounding conductor to function properly. In fact, using a GFI at the beginning of the circuit is what will allow you to legally and safely use 3-prong receptacles downstream. Thing is, this ...

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