Hot answers tagged rebuild
They sell extenders just for this. They come in metal, aluminum, plastic, different thickness for many applications, single gang, double, etc... Visit the electrical aisle of your home improvement store.
Screws hold better over time, so are preferable. Use a long (3") exterior grade screw and you'll be fine. I'd avoid stainless as they're expensive and sometimes brittle. If the underlying joists are in rotten shape, come back and ask about them.
I've thought about doing the same thing (adding on an upstairs to my house). One of the simple problems is permits; the inspection offices want to deal with things they know, and building above an unknown. Basically, your support comes from below; the new floor rests on the floor below, and the floors below on the foundation. If you need stronger walls, ...
I'd have to agree with @Tester101 that without actually seeing the site, there is no real way to tell you if what you plan can be done, but one data point: my brother looked into adding a floor to his house, and the estimate he got was a lot more than he paid for the house 5 years earlier. I can easily believe that it would be cheaper in the long run to ...
The concrete itself should be fine. Make sure water doesn't have anywhere it can pool, since standing water, concrete, and freezing temperatures can lead to cracking. I would protect any metal brackets or bolts intended to secure the framing to the foundation. And I would also protect any plumbing coming through the foundation. Where the water line is ...
Not the best answer, but: Use screws on the top boards where people will be walking barefoot. Every kid has had a wicked gash from nails (naturally) poking up a bit. Use big a** nails to attach your cross beams to your main structure. Nails are only good at holding against a shear, i.e. nails should always be (and only be) parallel with the ground. Use ...
You can also buy tabs (outlet shims) that interlock together to extend the box out. Used often for tile (I believe they are sold in the tile and electrical sections at Lowes). If what you're doing results in the outlet/switch sticking out further than the box though, then the above would be the way to go.
It has wheels. Do you have any plans to move this thing? EVER? Because trailers flex, and there are two strategies for dealing with that. #1 make careful material choices so the trailer structure can flex without taking damage. That's where drywall and mud may not be your best choice, for instance. #2 make the trailer base and structure, so rigid and ...
It depends what you're after & if you'd "hope" to get an official Use & Occupancy approval. Will you be hauling it around the nation (or locally) or just parking it on a piece of land to drag it into the Sun for the winter & under the trees for summer? If it's just a Glorified Shed Dwelling, then whatever your Local Building Dept. says is whom ...
You could build over, rather then upwards using a metal frame, then just connect the two independent structures at the stairs. You will need a very good engineer, but at least there will be very few unknowns as the new frame could even sit on separate foundations outside of your current foundations.
Agreed, use screws. Nails will pull out, and the shrink/swell cycle as the wood dries then gets wet then dries again can work the nails out of the holes, and make the holes slightly looser. Screws can't be pushed back out. They'd have to be twisted out, and the lengthwise force on the flat helical edge of the thread from tightening the screw down will remain ...
a picture would help, but i sense that no matter what i will recommend you to use cob - that is, building with earth. i didn't understood exactly what gap you need to fill but cob can fill everything, it's cheap (cost nothing!) it's fixable, and it can stand the heat (with guaranty - in the past i have built some ovens with it).
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