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14

It turns out people have consumed rainwater for millions of years. So there's some precedent. This is very well covered online, so grab a search engine and get reading. Here's a summary of concerns. In the US, it may be illegal (look up "water rights") but for individual home use, that is usually ignored. You'll get a lot of water from your roof really ...


11

Here is a pretty quick explanation. Starting from where the water will enter the drain and ending where the water will flow out, dig a ditch that's about 10 inches deep and 6 inches wide. Keep in mind that you will need to dig deeper if your starting point slopes upward. Lay about 2 inches of rock into the trench before placing the pipe lengthwise ...


8

I think you need to increase the angle of the vertical piece just slightly so the drips can't fall the entire length of the spout and then hit the angle portion at the bottom; instead they will silently wet themselves to the side of the spout and then roll down. Detach the bottom end from the house and play with the angle while you have a slow trickling ...


7

Your catchment and cistern (the part that's open to air and thus to contamination by insects/bacteria) should be as small as it can be while still providing enough capacity to take in the rain as it falls. Once rain enters the cistern from the catchment, it should then be pumped into a holding tank which is air- and water-tight, and from which you draw your ...


6

All PVC is subject to UV light degradation. PVC without UV protection will eventually suffer a loss of impact resistance. Your pipe will be whole, until impact at which it will shatter or crack instead of flex. Some PVC (PVC UVR) is UV resistant. The sunlight still damages the PVC pipe, but it is in a matrix of other chemicals that compete for the UV ...


6

Here's another article about a French / Trench drain: Basically the same idea, except he doesn't recommend lining the ditch with fabric or putting a sock on the pipe. He does recommend using rigid perforated pipe instead of the corrugated pipe with slits in it.


5

Often over doorways, we install a simple 90 degree folded 6 inch flashing. You can slide a piece of this under the shingle tabs, two or three courses above the drip edge, secure it with a few shingle nails. I like to install them in the shape of an inverted "V". You can also use a piece of gable end drip edge to do the same thing. look in the section of the ...


5

A good example is the roofs in Bermuda. If you search for 'rain collecting in Bermuda' you'll find lots of examples. Here's one: http://www.momcentral.com/blogs/mom-central-goes-green/harvesting-rain-bermuda-life-and-law


5

Sounds like either the gutters aren't secured tight enough, or you don't have a drip-edge flashing between the roof and gutter. The drip edge deflects water out and away from the house trim and into the gutter. You install it under the shingles, pulled out slightly from the trim, and secured with roofing cement.


4

As I mentioned in a comment to Jay's post, rainwater collecting may be illegal, dependent on your State. Western states, which get less rain, generally employ the doctrine of "prior appropriation"; an entity can claim the rights to water that will enter a waterway even if it hasn't arrived there yet. This means that by collecting rainwater into a cistern, ...


4

You could try the gray colored Schedule 80 PVC pipe. This is a much heavier duty material that will stand up to being outdoors. It is recommended by manufacturers. such as U.S. Plastic Corp, that PVC pipe and fittings be painted after installation with a coat of white water based latex paint to provide for UV resistance. The UV light is what is part of the ...


2

I recently installed the third gutter system on my house in 40 years. The dripping sound was maddening! Having had two others, I knew that it was this particular downspout. When I filled the gutter with water, I found a leak at the top of the downspout, where the water starts down from the gutter . The water was leaking out there and dripping down on the ...


2

I had a similar problem and added a length of corrugated tubing to my existing downspouts. What was happening is that the water came down the downspouts too close to the house. It did not have time to soak into the ground and pooled around the foundation. So using some black corrugated pipe and the right adapters got that water 5-10 feet from the house. ...


1

Sounds like for some reason you cannot just keep digging the 3-5 feet until the end is located? Since it is not pressure pipe, it's not the end of the world to cut a hole into the top and run water into it until you locate where it's seeping out near the outlet. Then follow the seepage back until you locate the actual end. You can patch the hole by placing ...


1

You can find the end, or at least the first leakage point in the line, with one of these: It's intended for cleaning drain/sewer pipe. How it works is the small bladder/balloon will expand under the water pressure of the hose (garden hose water source) and has a small exit point on the other side of the balloon. So it will expand to the pipe size then ...


1

You could add some drip edge flashing, such as the one in the top right: This would help a bit, and not interfere with the ladder placement. However, I really recommend putting a proper eaves trough and downspout. This will keep water from pooling against the foundation, and running under the door. If you really need a ladder space, run the trough ...


1

I would add a gutter and then use a ladder standoff You can get standoffs that either bolt onto the ladder with U-bolts or which clip-onto the rungs and are held with a spring-clip


1

The Rainhandler Plus might be OK if the ground around your home's foundation slopes at least 1 inch per foot for 6 feet or more and you haven't had water leaks in your basement or home. But you'll find gutter-guard systems that are better at capturing water for far less. Consumer Reports 2010 My gutters are 3 stories above the ground level (it's a ...


1

Diversion of water as discussed in other answers is a great idea. You may also consider window well covers They come in a variety of shapes and sizes and divert the bulk of precipitation away from the well and about 2 feet away from the foundation - often enough to avoid seepage. P.S. They also are a safety feature, reducing the risk of kids/pets ...


1

Alright, so assuming it is not illegal for you to collect rainwater (and even if it is...) and assuming you have a gutter system, why not just redirect your gutter system in a catchment system, or even a few catchment systems. This guy has done something similar here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Need-Free-Water%3f--Build-a-Rain-Barrel/ Next you have to ...


1

Yep, that's perfectly plausible. You're saying that there's only wire mesh in the soffits -- not actual metal soffit vents? That would be the first thing I'd fix. The louvers on the soffit vents make it much harder for rain to blow up and into the attic structure. The second thing you might consider is then putting soffit baffles in ... they may make it ...


1

Put in one of these. It's a French Drain, it is also on this sites FAQ. How to build a french drain? The need for a French Drain arises from a few problems, but usually from standing water in or around your home. This is caused by poor drainage, usually from clay rich soil or overly compacted soil. A French Drain will relocate the water very efficently. ...


1

Is there some particular reason not to put new holes in the bricks? My first inclination is to just drill new holes, and secure the spouts properly - after all, they did come off during a snow storm. Do you have pictures of the existing mounts? Perhaps there is a way to retrofit something onto the existing hooks but still use a modern downspout.



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