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14

Start here: EPA's guide on radon mitigation for home buyers. We have a radon mitigation system in our house. Our house failed the radon test during the home inspection, so we forced the sellers to have one installed. The work was done by a local radon contractor, paid for by the seller for $975. We also had another bid that was $1100. (Those prices ...


9

You should consider, but not invest now. Wait and test, before treating. Small design changes now, can make implementing a fix later, easier. Radon is everywhere, to some level. If you have higher levels of radon, then you need to be concerned with the rate that fresh air is exchanged in your home. Houses are much tighter today, so be more aware with a new ...


9

Radon doesn't cause persistent coughs, and certainly doesn't cause miscarriage. Radon is a non-reactive, radioactive gas that can increase your risk of lung cancer after being exposed to it for long periods of time (years to decades). Reducing the radon levels in your home will do nothing to stop your cough or any other chronic health problems. Mold on ...


7

According to this Radon Dose Calculator, if you are exposed to 30 pCi/L the dose rate is 6.275 µSv/h. Multiply by 30 days and 24 hrs/day to get 4500 µSv, or 4.5 mSv dose over 30 days. Wikipedia suggests that is similar a CT scan (which is a significant dose). You are probably not in the house 24 hours a day so you could adjust the numbers downward. ...


6

I gave a pretty detailed answer on radon mitigation systems in a related question. Rather than repeat myself, I suggest that you read that and follow the links, particularly the EPA's guide on radon mitigation for home buyers. Radon levels outdoors are pretty much always going to be zero. It's only enclosed spaces you need to worry about. As long as you ...


5

If you have radon, it's already likely getting in--concrete is permeable. So adding a small nail hole isn't going to change anything. Also note that tapcons don't actually penetrate all the way through the slab. If you have radon, you need to get a radon remediation system installed. This will put a hole in your slab so the radon has a place to go (and then ...


5

There's a good reason it's "an insane buy" but since you seem to be committed regardless (these things are why you pay an inspector and put conditions in the contract allowing you to walk away if inspection turns up issues...) There's no guarantee that a new well with solve any (much less all) of the issues, unless it ends up in a different water supply (not ...


5

If you are in an area with granite rock (there are other indicators of Radon, but granite is the most common) then you should get a soil survey done. As @Tester101 said, results may already exist for your area, so check this first. If the results show high radon levels, definitely get ventilation fitted - this is important for basement levels, but you ...


5

First Radon is a pretty serious thing if you are working that much inside your basement. I have seen Radon levels in basement stay consistently at 4 times what is in the upper levels. Your 6.8 reading is high but not alarm bells until you get a few readings that high. Initial steps: Open windows. Better than using fans is trying to create a convection ...


4

To check if the fan is working, you can put a plastic bag over the end of the exhaust pipe and see if it inflates. Gauge oil is just the orange fluid that goes in the manometer (pressure meter) tube that indicates the pressure difference being driven by the fan. If it is missing or low, then it could give the negative reading. It should go to zero when the ...


4

I wouldn't even consider one or the other... both. An outdoor sump pump in our could climate (I'm in Minnesota) is a real pain in the neck. A good friend of mine has one in his old house and he has to bring it in every winter and put it back out when the snow starts melting, which often means a few hours digging to find the top of the sump pit, then every ...


4

The house I am living in now had high radon levels when tested before we purchased it. We negotiated in the purchase price to have the seller pay for radon mitigation. We hired a company to install the radon mitigation system. (Make sure you check their license. Most states have to license the installer. We learned a lesson there.) In order to put the ...


3

You can buy a radon mitigation fan for around $100 to install along with a vent pipe. Keep in mind that the lifetime cost will be more than the part's price, since you've got to run it continuously. You'll also want to check and make sure the fan reduces the radon levels below 4 pCi/L. Here's a resource on figuring out what kind of power rating you'll need ...


3

Ethically? Legally? It all depends, I guess. Radon is linked to cancer, so if you care about not getting cancer, and are planning on living there, I'd look into it. Basements are more of a problem as are 'tight' houses due to lack of air exchange. We had our old house with a basement retrofitted for Radon for about $1500. I imagine it'd be significantly ...


3

If you are trying to mitigate it, mitigate it; if you can't get a company in to do it, do it yourself. You need to suck it out of the soil under/around the house before it enters the house (indeed, you'd like to change the air leakage to "from the house to the soil", not vice versa) and you do that by reducing the pressure under and around the foundation - ...


2

There are plastic-sheets available for putting under the concrete-foundation of a house that are long-term radon-safe, i.e. that won't let radon trough even after several decades. Putting such a sheet under the foundation is low-cost and easy, and I don't see any reason -not- to do so. Pay attention that you don't perforate the sheet with ...


2

I don't live in a hot climate, but I do know one thing, heat rises and cold falls. i can't understand the justification of putting AC into a crawl space that is not air tight. I answered your question a long time ago about insulating and venting the crawl, and I still stand by that advise. I can not believe the air conditioning a dirt floor crawl space is ...


2

I have also heard of putting the suction pipe into the sump (above the water level, where it can draw air) and sealing the sump. Works well if there is drain pipe connected into the sump pump.


2

This is actually just a vacuum measurement system - used to show that there is negative pressure in the radon mitigation system drawing radon gas up and out of your home. As long as the liquid in the right hand arm is higher than the left, then it is working.


2

A u-tube doesn't need calibration in the respect that the difference between the two scales will be twice the static suction. For convenience though, in order to read accurately from 0, it should be "calibrated", because some oil will slowly be lost over the years. Simply disconnect the tops of the tube and slide it until the oil level is even with the zero ...


2

If your basement is flooding, and you live in freezing climates, an indoor sump pump is a pretty important. A high water table also means a finished basement is going to be difficult. If you are installing the sump pump to deal with the water table, and you also need to mitigate Radon, look at a sump pump basin something like this. It is sealed from above ...


2

There are a variety of risks, including the risk that the system will fail to work as intended. You either punt those to let someone else design the system, or you take them on yourself when you design it. To look at just one that you've thought of: Not growing bacteria in your water system is pretty much a matter of having clean water to start with and ...


2

You are much better off preventing it from entering in the first place. But once it does enter, ventilation is the only way to reduce the levels. How effective this would be depends on the exchange volume. You would be committed to running this exchanger 24/7 for ever. Replacement costs would be much higher than the typical radon fan. Anything running 24/7 ...


2

It is oil of a specific density to correspond to the scale. I believe red is one density and blue another, at least for Dwyer manometers. I'm fairly sure replacement oil is available. If you don't care about the accurate reading and only that the fan is working, you could just use plain mineral oil, but you should post a notice next to the gauge that the oil ...


2

Fresh air from outdoors is presumed to be lower in radon concentration than air that is trapped in the house. Any introduction of outside air will thus lower the radon concentration inside the house. The answer to your exact question depends on your goal: Are you trying to see the maximum possible concentration in your house? Then you should keep all ...


1

Put a surface pump at the lowest portion of the basement? That should keep the flood down to an inch or so; not perfect but better. (You could build up some sort of basin around the mechanicals so they have their own "sump" sitting on top of the slab... but Murphy's Law says that the next failure is going to be somewhere else in the system.)


1

You can get the test re-done, they generally aren't very expensive, but avoid the home testing kits, they aren't as reliable, and any buyer will probably have the test done themselves anyway professionally. It is a significant jump, it definitely crosses the threshold of "safe" and "needs correction". Any smart buyer will want you to correct a value this ...


1

EPA sets the "Action Level", the level at which mitigation should occur, at 4.0 pCi/L. I agree with @Henry Jackson, if you got 2 short-term test results that averaged 1.7 then continue to use the space as before. The reason for 2 short term tests is to rule out high levels that would pose an immediate threat. You should now conduct a Long-Term Test for a ...


1

As you have probably learned doing research, there isn't a hard-and-fast cutoff between "safe" and "dangerous". But 2.0 pCi/L seems to be the threshold for considering remediation, and that's for a living space. If you're using the room for exercise you'll probably only be spending a few hours per week there, which would dramatically reduce your exposure. ...


1

When my radon mitigation system was installed I was told the blue liquid would fade to clear in a few years. The company said it's not a problem since you can still read the meter by looking a bit closer, and definitely not worth a service call as long as you can verify the fan is working.



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