Hot answers tagged primer
16
No, in general, you don't need to prime existing paint.
To prepare for repainting:
wash the wall to remove any grease.
fill any holes and cracks with suitable filler, possibly using flexible filler for cracks.
sand and prime the filled areas - priming will seal the filler and keep it in place. You might want to sand and reprime the whole wall to avoid a ...
12
Yes, you should prime the whole surface.
Sealing/priming helps prevent penetration of vapors and moisture from the air into the drywall. If you don't seal the entire surface, even though it's behind cabinets, penetration can happen - mind you it's not going to be significant but it can happen.
Plus the time involved to paint behind those cabinets that ...
12
I would just use a good stain covering primer like Kilz. I have used both KILZ 2® Latex Primer and KILZ® Premium Primer, the Premium version is noticeable better than the Kilz 2.
But it looks like they have an even better version called KILZ MAX™ Primer. I have never used this one but it does mention covering nicotine:
KILZ MAX™ is a water-based ...
10
I was quite skeptical about the paint and primer combo's, but Valspar gave me a couple of gals to try out. I was surprised how well it covered over dark colors. The down side was that it is not as smooth as regular premium grade paints. It seemed a bit dry going on, but that is because it is very high in clay content. I decided the best combo was to use ...
9
When you say you can see the brush marks, do you mean that they're actually irregularly surfaced? I mean - are we talking just a visual effect or an actual difference in the depth of the paint?
If the latter, do a skim coat with lightweight joint compound and when it dries, either lightly sand OR smooth with a large, slightly damp sponge, then apply ...
9
They make lead testing kits for this purpose.
You should ensure that you understand the correct process and procedures for painting over lead paint and that you take the proper safety precautions. The EPA has a website with lots of information on this.
8
A better roller frame may actually be the right solution. I used this roller to paint most of my house after giving up on the cheap ones. It does a pretty good job of sealing the ends so that paint doesn't get inside to the rotating components. It's also got bearings to help it roll smoothly.
Unfortunately, I've used it only with Behr interior eggshell ...
8
Steven has given you the right info to test for lead. As a certified home inspector and licensed EPA Lead renovator, I question the method your inspector used to determine that there was lead paint present. He should have used a test swab for verifiable results. Assuming there is lead paint simply because over coated paint is cracking is making an ...
8
My dad and his dad were both professional union painters. They taught me that for small spots of spackle on the wall, all you have to do is put a quick layer of regular paint over them with a brush while you're doing your cutting-in brushwork. The spot over the spackle will be mostly dry when you go back over it with the roller later. I know from personal ...
7
I highly doubt a paint store sells what you are looking for. When you join two pieces of PVC, you aren't joining them together, but welding them together. PVC Cleaner (AKA Primer) cleans all dirt, and oils off the parts and soften them a bit, so they weld together properly and the glue can penetrate the PVC deeper. The glue then works on a molecular level ...
6
My favorite primer for wood doors is Bins Bullseye, pigmented shellac. This primer bonds well, hides wood grain well and gives a very smooth surface for top coats. If you prefer to stay with a latex product, then Kilz premium is good too.
Remember prep is of the utmost importance for a good finish. Sand everything and clean it well before applying ...
6
If you want a really nice job, get one of these Drywall Pole Sanders and give the wall a quick going over with 200-250 grit paper before priming, and before your final colour coat.
Remember to wipe with a damp rag (on the pole sander) before applying any paint/primer.
6
Painting a pressure treated wood deck is always tricky. Pressure treated wood does not seem to hold paint well, even with a good primer. Stain is usually a better alternative, but since your deck already has paint, it would have to be stripped completely before using stain.
In order for the paint to stick fairly well, the surface needs to be as clean and ...
5
The reason for waiting is to ensure that the plaster dries completely. If you paint over damp plaster the moisture has to still come out - through the paint causing it to bubble and come away. You will end up having to repaint at the very least.
If you have only patched the wall then you should be able to prime and paint it sooner as there is less area to ...
5
Do not prime the drywall before it is taped and sanded. Do all your drywall work first, then apply your textured coating. Normally there is no reason to prime the new drywall or joints before putting on a compound based textured top coat. If you intend to use a textured paint instead of a compound based texture, then you would prime the entire surface with ...
4
If the holes are already patched and all your are doing is sanding it down to a smooth finish before you prime, it will be way less than 5 minutes per patch.
Personally I would do it myself but how valuable your time is something only you can answer. If you get the sand paper made specifically for sanding joint compound (like this it will go really fast. ...
4
I would put on the baseboards, but only tack them in place so they can easily be removed when the drywall guy is done.
The reason he is probably asking you to install them, is so he can make sure you are happy with the finish before he leaves so he doesn't have to come back.
It's probably a good idea anyway, because it would be a shame to get all the ...
4
Yes. The purpose of primer is to seal the raw plaster/gypsum/drywall and create a better surface for finish paint that won't soak it up.
As long as the rest of the wall is properly cleaned before painting (paint doesn't bond well to dirt, grease, etc), your finish coat should look even and consistent.
For your situation, assuming the existing paint was ...
4
Shellac/alcohol based primers like Bulls Eye work great for sealing stains and odors in many applications, however they do put out a lot of alcohol fumes. Spraying increases the amount of volatile gases in the air and should only be used in a very well ventilated area and with proper protective respirators. You can actually get very intoxicated, legally ...
4
Agreed with all the "clean first" comments, but you might try tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) as your detergent, as it also etches the surface, providing a "nap" on the paint to make coats stick.
My favourite primer for difficult situations is white pigmented shellac, like the B-I-N product mentioned, but there are generic off-brand versions that are cheaper. It ...
4
Yes. This fine plastering expert actually recommends it:
http://www.bristegroup.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=45&Itemid=82
If the surface is new, eliminate any possibility of coating failure by priming the surface in an oil primer, B-I-N SHELLAC BASE is preferred.
Here is another expert plasterer doing the same:
...
3
You're looking at about 1 minute of sanding per small patch, not 5. However, you'll be looking at a LOT of dust.
In my experience, a $20 vacuum sander can SERIOUSLY reduce the dust.
After you sand, take a large clean sponge and just dampen it slightly and go over each spot gently with the sponge to get a near mirror smooth finish on the drywall. Even ...
3
Paint primer that says it's suitable for PVC can be used for painting PVC siding, Vinyl window surfaces, fencing, etc. It is a paint primary coat for weatherproofing surfaces and enabling other paint coats to stick to the plastic so they don't peel, not a pipe assembly agent. See Gunner's comments for proper materials needed for pipe assembly. it's a whole ...
3
Just came across this product, it neatly answers your question. Browsing through a few reviews sites, it seems to be well accepted. Its on my "To Try" list.
3M patch plus primer
Disclamer: I have no financial interest in 3M, its subsidiaries, assignees, unless they have a refer-and-get-rich program.
3
Generally the smoother the finish the smaller the nap. The nap on the primer wouldn't matter in this situation. I doubt your walls were done with perfection - no offense (none of mine are either). So you need a certain amount of primer to get to the point of painting. Meaning if you use a smaller nap for primer you will just have to make more swipes to ...
2
I cannot answer this question but can tell you what we did to get the answers we needed. We emailed (or you could call for) the specific questions we needed answered to the manufacturer of the Shellac product...Zinsser, by Rust-Oleum. They responded in a couple of days and were very helpful.
2
Ammonia:
"…the objective is to remove the shellac from the brush, roller, etc, not to thin the shellac that is still in the brush.
Now, the explanation; just as mineral spirits/paint thinner won’t completely remove varnish from a brush, neither will alcohol alone completely remove shellac from a brush. Alcohol will dilute the cut of shellac but there will ...
2
Water-based primers just don't always do the trick, but when using a Shellac based primer such as Rustoleum BIN primer, I suggest rolling it on. I sprayed a full interior the other day (which I regret 100%). It was awful, and I was extremely intoxicated for longer than just that day due to the fumes. My boss sent me in with this product and had no knowledge ...
2
It's true that primer will show you any imperfections on your wall. When I skim coated my ceilings, I was always surprised to find out how many spots I had missed after I primed. I'd say you should definitely prime first, and afterwards prime the spots your drywall guy skimmed again.
As for the baseboards, I'm not completely sure what 'professionals' do, ...
2
Priming is best. If you have to do two coats of paint to cover the old color, why not use a good primer or primer/sealer and one coat of a good paint? Most people will say otherwise, but primer will stick to old paint a lot better than new paint will.
I recommend wiping the walls down with a damp cloth first, but it's a lot of work, and I've never done it ...
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