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The most common failure with posts in concrete is "collar rot", where the post rots right at the point where it exits the concrete at the ground line. This can be easily avoided if the concrete is slightly above ground grade and domed or tapered away from the post so water doesn't lay against the wood. Drainage is the key, keep standing water away from the ...

This all depends on soil conditions. Loamy soil with good drainage, the concrete is probably OK. Clay soil, the concrete doesn't really do anything short of trapping water against the wood. In both cases, many people suggest not using concrete at all. Instead, dig the hole deeper than the post and then add some gravel to the bottom. Insert the post, then ...

A reciprocating saw works nicely, with the proper blade. You can buy a tree cutting blade for work like this, 10-12 inches long, with long sharp raking teeth. We had an ice storm, and the clean up of hundreds of large branches and trunks was done entirely by reciprocating saw, wearing out only three of those blades in my Porter Cable. Some trunks were over ...

A chisel-point digging bar might help. Depending on what type you get, you may even be able to sharpen it with an angle grinder for an axe-like end. Just be prepared for a workout!

Concerete around a fence post is to help with lateral stability. It's not being used as a footer, since there isn't a whole lot of weight involved with a fence post. As such, there's no need for concrete to be below the bottom of the post...in fact, you like don't want that, as you want any water that gets between the concrete and wood to have a place to ...

I'm going through the same thing with a similar fence in a similar setting. There appear to be three options: Attempt to repair the existing posts. Pros: straightforward. Cons: expensive and you risk having to redo everything within a short time when another part of the posts rots out. Could be ugly looking, too. Yank the broken posts and replace them. ...

How tall are your posts to start with? A 6 foot above ground post should have at least 2 feet in the ground in your area. I would be setting them in concrete so you have a good solid base and good ballast. A metal post in concrete won't rust as long as you dome the top of the concrete so water runs away from the post. I'll share a clever trick that ...

They make a metal brack to span the old 2X4 and you most likely can get it to work for the new roof. If not I can most likely get some made at work. You do have some good bracing and support on the one footing you have pictured here and if the other one is the same way it would be just as strong. I would just pull out the old footings and replace them ...

Automobile floor jack and a jackstand. Place on both sides of broken pole. Straddle from jackstand to jack with two 2' x 6's screwed together. Wrap chain around 2x6 and using a cordless drill, screw lag bolts through chain into broke off fence post. Raise jackstand to keep level with jack. lift with jack, stop and raise jackstand to equal height. 2-3 rounds ...

STOP!!!! The correct way to prevent rot coming up the post is to set the tube, pour a little bit of concrete to the bottom, lift the tube a few inches allowing the concrete to "mushroom" out around the bottom of the tube, then set the post and pour the rest of your concrete. Do not allow the post to go through the bottom of the concrete. Water will wick up ...

In terms of structure, sure. However it will be ugly, unless you are a very good welder, and take a lot of care dressing it after. Remember too that most fence pipe is galvanized. The fumes given off when you heat it are quite poisonous. It may be a better idea to just buy chunks of pipe with an inside diameter that can slide over the existing post, or ...

It looks like there used to be a brick wall there and then at some point the above-ground portion was replaced with the wood fence. Breaking up the concrete is the best way to go, since you have already dug down to the bottom a breaker bar and sledge hammer would make short work of it. Another option is to put a 4x4 treated post right along the wall to one ...

I had a similar issue a few weeks ago and ended up having to relocate the post hole a foot or two down and just making a longer section of fence. Though I do know this is not always an option. It just happened to work perfect for me. Another idea might be to burn it out. Or perhaps use the same stuff they use on stumps to get rid of them.

If you have a vehicle winch/come along/high lift jack you can use it to pull the post out. Beats wiggling the post back and forth all day. I dug some post holes in very hard soil with a steel bar and a shop vac. I chipped away at the soil and vacumed out the loose dirt. I went down 4 feet in a very short time. Maybe you can do something similar around the ...

It really depends on how deep it is. I'd start with Alex's suggestion of a lagbolt with an eye on the end, then some chains and your lever idea. I wouldn't wet the ground...that'll just create a suction that will make it that much harder to pull out. That said, will the new post be in plain dirt like this one? You probably don't want that...and want to ...

I am in the process of building a picket fence (picket by picket). I made 8 inch holes and used 4"x4"x6' posts for my 4' fence. The upper back railing is a about 38" off the ground. So around 2 feet of the post is in the ground for every post. Corner posts are 8' posts and cemented into place. The tops were trimmed to the top railing to be flush. Also the 8' ...