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18

The most common failure with posts in concrete is "collar rot", where the post rots right at the point where it exits the concrete at the ground line. This can be easily avoided if the concrete is slightly above ground grade and domed or tapered away from the post so water doesn't lay against the wood. Drainage is the key, keep standing water away from the ...


11

This all depends on soil conditions. Loamy soil with good drainage, the concrete is probably OK. Clay soil, the concrete doesn't really do anything short of trapping water against the wood. In both cases, many people suggest not using concrete at all. Instead, dig the hole deeper than the post and then add some gravel to the bottom. Insert the post, then ...


5

A chisel-point digging bar might help. Depending on what type you get, you may even be able to sharpen it with an angle grinder for an axe-like end. Just be prepared for a workout!


4

The punch suggested by SpectralGhost is a good idea. If that doesn't work, you can make a jig with three pieces of 2x4. Screw the pieces together and drill a pilot hole for the drill bit (the dotted line) using the same size bit you intend to use on the pipe.


4

How tall are your posts to start with? A 6 foot above ground post should have at least 2 feet in the ground in your area. I would be setting them in concrete so you have a good solid base and good ballast. A metal post in concrete won't rust as long as you dome the top of the concrete so water runs away from the post. I'll share a clever trick that ...


3

I'm going through the same thing with a similar fence in a similar setting. There appear to be three options: Attempt to repair the existing posts. Pros: straightforward. Cons: expensive and you risk having to redo everything within a short time when another part of the posts rots out. Could be ugly looking, too. Yank the broken posts and replace them. ...


3

Concerete around a fence post is to help with lateral stability. It's not being used as a footer, since there isn't a whole lot of weight involved with a fence post. As such, there's no need for concrete to be below the bottom of the post...in fact, you like don't want that, as you want any water that gets between the concrete and wood to have a place to ...


3

Automobile floor jack and a jackstand. Place on both sides of broken pole. Straddle from jackstand to jack with two 2' x 6's screwed together. Wrap chain around 2x6 and using a cordless drill, screw lag bolts through chain into broke off fence post. Raise jackstand to keep level with jack. lift with jack, stop and raise jackstand to equal height. 2-3 rounds ...


2

If you have a vehicle winch/come along/high lift jack you can use it to pull the post out. Beats wiggling the post back and forth all day. I dug some post holes in very hard soil with a steel bar and a shop vac. I chipped away at the soil and vacumed out the loose dirt. I went down 4 feet in a very short time. Maybe you can do something similar around the ...


2

They make a metal brack to span the old 2X4 and you most likely can get it to work for the new roof. If not I can most likely get some made at work. You do have some good bracing and support on the one footing you have pictured here and if the other one is the same way it would be just as strong. I would just pull out the old footings and replace them ...


2

STOP!!!! The correct way to prevent rot coming up the post is to set the tube, pour a little bit of concrete to the bottom, lift the tube a few inches allowing the concrete to "mushroom" out around the bottom of the tube, then set the post and pour the rest of your concrete. Do not allow the post to go through the bottom of the concrete. Water will wick up ...


2

I had the same situation at my place, I set the post and ran the top rail past it to the house and set elbows to make a hoop to carry the chain link past the post. I did not want to screw anything to the house so I rebent wall brackets to clamp the top and bottom rails to the line post


2

In terms of structure, sure. However it will be ugly, unless you are a very good welder, and take a lot of care dressing it after. Remember too that most fence pipe is galvanized. The fumes given off when you heat it are quite poisonous. It may be a better idea to just buy chunks of pipe with an inside diameter that can slide over the existing post, or ...


2

I just went through the process of removing a broken-off fence post without removing the concrete pier. Tough job! I expected it would only take a couple of hours, and that replacing just the post would be easier than digging out and breaking out the old pier, disposing of the concrete, and pouring a new pier. Maybe not, though, especially if the old post ...


1

One way to do it would be to cut terminal post off by the extra 10 inches, setting it in concrete on top of the footing concrete, and attaching the post to the house with 180 degree chain link brace bands. Or, you could nail a 2x6 to the house and attach the brace bands to it. Alternately, you could put the terminal post at the edge of the footing concrete, ...


1

It looks like there used to be a brick wall there and then at some point the above-ground portion was replaced with the wood fence. Breaking up the concrete is the best way to go, since you have already dug down to the bottom a breaker bar and sledge hammer would make short work of it. Another option is to put a 4x4 treated post right along the wall to one ...


1

If they are treated, they are probably okay. However, I have any easy fix; we had some 6x6 doug fir posts that were going to be out for a while, and we just put some 5 gallon buckets upside down on them. That keeps the end-grain dry - which is where it will absorb the most moisture - without sealing the end totally. Worked great.


1

Railing post should have been a prerequisite thought in the process of building any deck. As far as attaching to Aztec or trex product decking it is not sufficiently structural to withstand lateral forces needed for adequate attachment. Which is why you can't find any attachment method, as it isn't recommended. Sounds like you made your own decision on ...


1

You can't escape physics and violate code, which places footing depths below frost depths. Just be glad you're not in Alberta, I hear they must go to 12ft. Where restraint in the form of a building load is present, heaving pressures may or may not overcome the restraint, but they can be very high: 19 tons/sq ft has been measured, and a seven-story ...


1

The main con is that since its designed to be driven down, the tapered tip will offer less torque, even set in concrete, than a post set to a similar depth. Another consideration is frost heaving. The bare adapter should not heave, but the combined concrete/adapter might, unless the pour goes below the frost line. This can be mitigated with SONOtubes use. ...


1

I had a similar issue a few weeks ago and ended up having to relocate the post hole a foot or two down and just making a longer section of fence. Though I do know this is not always an option. It just happened to work perfect for me. Another idea might be to burn it out. Or perhaps use the same stuff they use on stumps to get rid of them.


1

It really depends on how deep it is. I'd start with Alex's suggestion of a lagbolt with an eye on the end, then some chains and your lever idea. I wouldn't wet the ground...that'll just create a suction that will make it that much harder to pull out. That said, will the new post be in plain dirt like this one? You probably don't want that...and want to ...


1

I am in the process of building a picket fence (picket by picket). I made 8 inch holes and used 4"x4"x6' posts for my 4' fence. The upper back railing is a about 38" off the ground. So around 2 feet of the post is in the ground for every post. Corner posts are 8' posts and cemented into place. The tops were trimmed to the top railing to be flush. Also the 8' ...



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