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From what you have described, I see no reason why you would not have adequate space in your sub panel. As far as wiring, you are correct in that you will have two hots (L1, L2), a ground, and no neutral. Without seeing the spec sheet for exact numbers, I can only suggest that you take the conservative approach and wire using a double-pole 30A breaker with ...


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You might as well figure out how to remove some of the pieces of this setup so you can have that inspection look. If something needs replacing it will have to be taken all apart any way. If all the water piping is rigidly attached this will be the opportunity to cut the pipes and install union fittings so a future repair/replace is much easier. Note that ...


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Sounds like the sand is shifting. Like Tester said, you may need to build up the low side with something more secure, like using those landscaping blocks with a bottom layer that is at least half in the ground. Then backfilling with dirt and compacting it.


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You should dig down on the high side, instead of building up the low side. Or build up the low side in a more sound manner, though that will likely cost more than $100.


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This has happened to my pool many times too. It's the metal particles in the water reacting with chlorine indeed. I use aluminum sulfate, which you can buy in any pool shop in bags of ~20 kg. Just sprinkle evenly before night, depending of the size of your pool. It will react with metal particles and form a sort of dust, which will fall to the bottom of the ...


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It's crazy complicated. But: If you are concerned with heat-loss due to evaporation, then reducing the exposed surface area will help. The rate of evaporation is proportional to surface area. If you are likewise concerned with maximizing heat-gain from the sun, then that too is proportional to surface area. Finally, heat loss due to convention is also ...


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If possible it is better to bury it to avoid exposure to the elements and damage from miscellaneous things. Having it above ground is no problem though as long as it is firmly supported. You don't say where you are, so without knowing the climate, there is no way to know how to support it. One simple way to support it over soft ground is to drive a long ...


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Normally a wooden springboard is a laminate of some kind to provide the necessary springyness. It would probably be far easier to buy a board than to make one. If you do want to make one I suggest a design like this (from Popular Mechanics, 1923): In this design the top plank has a 3-foot overhang, and the middle plank has a 4-foot overhang. Note that ...



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