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12

You said that one end is attached to the house, and the other end is attached to a post which is attached to a vehicle shed. Is there any reason why you need a post on the vehicle shed end? Could you attach the line directly to the shed (e.g. with an eye-bolt)? That would seem like the simplest solution. ETA: Given the slope of the land, maybe a metal ...


8

Check with your utility to see if they have a program to bury your service line. My company (FPL) has a program where they will give you the conduit to bury along with instructions. Once everything is set up and meets their standards, they will bring the lines down the pole for you. There is a fee, of course. For FPL in my area, it would cost around $580 ...


4

What I'd do is drill out the too large hole to make it large enough to take a dowel. You'll need to clamp the curtain pole to ensure you get a clean hole. Then glue a dowel into hole and cut it off flush - use a hacksaw and then sandpaper to finish. Leave this to dry and then drill a new pilot hole in the dowel to take the joining screw. If you don't have ...


3

I'd probably try for a mix of natural light, fluorescent, and point lights. The natural light will be the most economical, but obviously fails at night. The fluorescent lighting should give you enough light for most working conditions. And the point lights should help for when you need to do detail work or get under the hood of your cars. You can find ...


2

Many utility arborists have digger trucks and install utility poles. You can also call your local power company and ask if they have any sub-contractors that install private poles. Good Luck


2

I've only put up one clothesline post in my life and it was cemented. Anything else I've put in the ground I've cemented in just because the soil around my house tends to be a bit wet since we're fairly near a lake. My recommendation is to cement it in, I know it's a bit more work but in the long run it'll be worth it. I'd hate to see a whole string of ...


2

Moving the main service to the garage is probably the most practical option if an easement for full underground is impossible. You will almost certainly need to change the feed wire between the garage and the house for that approach, but that's similar to what you would need to do for an underground feed anyway. Probably most practical to actually establish ...


2

I'd use an insert nut and a hanger bolt. Almost any solution is going to require you to be able to drill two clean center holes. Above are two examples of insert nuts, you drill a hole larger than your bolt and insert this specialty nut to give you machine threads. (Similar to a tee nuts found in the bottom of chairs, couches, tables, etc except this ...


2

Either it is a load bearing pole or someone who built the post was just practicing their pole making skills. You can remove it when you offset the load to another part of your house. Usually this would involve putting up an overhead beam and 1-2 poles to hold that. This is very specific to your house and taking out a concrete pole will definitely involve ...


1

My estimate from the information given so far is that the nearly 18 foot high pole is not adequately anchored just by embedding the end of it in smallish block of concrete and a couple of U-bolts into a plank at ground level. (The block and u-bolt locations are smallish when you consider the overall pole lever arm length). This thing should have a set of ...


1

You don't have a neutral at the switch. White is a traveler, and should be marked in some way to indicate that it is not a neutral (but is likely not marked). Red is the other traveler, and black is common (either attached to power or the light, depending on which switch it is). Multiway Switching can be confusing, and is the subject of many questions on ...


1

You may want to consider one of the various style of commercial bracket assemblies designed to mount antenna masts onto chimneys and concrete columns. Here are some examples:



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