Hot answers tagged plywood
14
I think the best method is to use an anti slip tape / strip / paint
Tape
Strip
Paint
They are ordered form easiest to hardest.
The strips will be the easiest because you just stick them on. You will obviously stick them on the length where your tires will be going and not sideways (because that would be pointless). The strips are more durable, but ...
10
The same policy goes for roof sheathing as for hanging drywall, you get more strength by spanning more rafters/joists/studs and offsetting the joints. This solves two points of weakness.
The main one is the structure turning into a parallelogram where the studs are no longer perpendicular to the ground. When you think of using a diagonal brace to support a ...
10
Twofold theory:
Perhaps OSB is cheaper at the moment for this builder than ply and wants to use OSB as much as they can. OSB and Ply are apparently seen as the same in terms of performance and code see: http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publications/by-title/choosing-between-oriented-strandboard-and-plywood/
However, OSB, when cut, is more susceptible to water ...
9
It could be that they are trying to slow down a fire from spreading. The material at the edges might be more fire resistant, so the fire will spread to adjacent buildings more slowly, allowing the occupants more time to escape. You might be able to verify this by checking the local fire codes for conjoined (not sure this is the right term) buildings.
See ...
8
ApplePly is a brand name for an all-hardwood veneer plywood that is higher quality than your typical construction or cheap hardwood plywoods. (You may want to confirm that your "applewood" plywood is truly ApplePly). ApplePly should be similar in quality to baltic birch plywoods and like baltic birch it is not supposed to contain voids. You can find these ...
6
A block plane might work but you're going to have a very tough time taking down 1cm of wood over such a long length. If you do use a plane, go in small increments and make sure you keep your blade as sharp as possible.
A belt sander will work better, provided you use 40 or 60 grit sandpaper. Anything higher (smoother) and it will take you an eternity. My ...
6
How much the shelves will sag depends not only on the materials you use, but also whether or not the shelves are fixed, whether there's a hardwood strip along the length, and how they are attached. The magic number to watch out for is 1/32" (about 0.8 mm) of sag per foot.
MDF is incredibly heavy - your bookshelves will weigh a ton if you construct them ...
6
Yes, you can use a router on plywood, but ok depends entirely on your definition of "ok". If there are no voids in the plywood, then it may not be terrible, but in my opinion as a woodworker, I'd rather see it edge banded with some type of hardwood. You can use a router on that and it will turn out quite nicely.
A virtue of hardwood edge banding is it will ...
6
Plywood absorbs water and is not a sealing material, period. You can use it as base for ruberoid roof, but not as the layer exposed to the rain.
When exposed to rain, wind and sun plywood will cycle through absorbing water and drying out and this will wear out the most outer layer in no time so that it cracks and the damage then proceeds to the next layer ...
6
Start by clearing out any loose particles that are still clinging to the wall.
Once you've got it cleaned up, wood filler will take care of the missing plywood patch. Apply it with a putty knife and sand it smooth after it dries. It will be easiest if you use a putty/taping knife wider than the patch you're repairing. Otherwise, you'll have to do a little ...
5
Personally, I hate OSB for anything but temporary uses. It's not as strong as ply, it's more suceptible to moisture than ply, more easily damaged than ply. They use it for things like roofs and such cause it's cheap. They are counting on the roof being covered before any extended exposure to moisture, and they certainly don't expect constant foot traffic on ...
4
First concideration, I would encourage you to use a T&G roof sheathing such as AdvanTec instead of standard CDX plywood. This will give you a better fit and not have to worry about spacing gaps in the plywood. The price is comparable, so there is no cost advantage to using regular plywood.
The sheathing should be secured with 6d galv ring shank nails ...
4
If it is MDF or HDF (as opposed to particleboard) then I would choose the fiberboard over ply.
Any surface wear will impact the finish laminate, regardless of the underlying material.
By contrast, MDF/HDF should be more impact resistance, water/mold resistant and uniform in density and composition.
MDF above: more uniform and dense. Particle below, less ...
4
I would use MDF. It is uniform, takes paint well and doesn't warp. It also routes well.
It should hold the weight I'd expect in a bookshelf (supported at both sides, about 30" wide and no deeper than 18")
If you're really concerned with the sagging you might add a single center support bracket.
3
Yes it can warp from liquid. Will it in the case you mentioned - probably not. Plywood will warp if you just let the board sit with moisture/humidity/gravity. Until it is attached to something to give it shape (keep it straight) and it is coated, it will warp. Get some bracing under your beer pong top to the plywood so it can't buckle, twist, or warp.
3
The short answer is that you can't. Plywood is heavy and you will need to drive a lot of screws through the wood and drywall into studs to properly secure it. You will also find that when you have something sandwiched tightly against paint, often it will pull the paint off when you remove it.
That being said, screw holes in drywall and peeled paint are ...
3
The process for patching should similar to drywall, but with slightly different materials. I'd suggest using wood filler at the joint.
In more detail: first, get a new piece of plywood of the same thickness as the existing wall board. Then you need to attach your patch piece to structure. For this, you have two options.
Cut away more of the existing ...
3
Always be safe now rather than sorry later. For the small difference is cost, use 3/4 inch sheathing or underlayment. There are several good T&G underlayment brands out there, but T&G may be a little over kill for your application. Simple sheathing, CDX or underlayment should work fine.
2
You can hang the plywood panels with french cleats to minimize damage to the walls. One half of the cleat is screwed to the wall and the other half is screwed to the panel. Then they hook over each other to hold the panel on the wall.
Make sure the cleat is screwed into studs so it can support the weight of the plywood. You can use a strip of wood ...
2
I ended up leaving the warped 1/2" plywood under the 3/4" plywood and some paint cans for about a week. The plywood was visibly less warped afterwards, and almost lies flat on the ground with just a slight arch in the center. Not sure if it was significant, but it rained a few of the days, so humidity levels might have played a factor.
2
I would select the product based on the appearance and durability of the finish laminate alone, with little concern for the substrate material, assuming the substrate is some viable material and not pressed paper pulp or something else obviously inferior.
For identical finish laminates, MDF would be preferable to plywood as it is denser and more ...
2
Courtesy of @lsiunsuex in chat: http://www.tecotested.com/techtips/pdf/tt_plywooddesigncapacities
Max Live Load Deflection = span/240,
Max Total Deflection = span/180.
So for a 24 inch span, the deflection should be < ~1/8 of an inch. (2.1333 sixteenths)
1
Your main concern is the wood warping. I've used plywood for cabinet doors in the past and they have all warped to one degree or another.
Your best bet might be getting marine ply which is designed to withstand moisture and hence less liable to warping.
If you can get a thicker ply (7 or 9 ply perhaps) then this will also minimise the amount it will bend.
1
While CDX (rated Exposure I) has exterior glue, it is not intended for prolonged weather exposure. You should use a panel that has a true exterior rating, even if it is rated for sheathing and not siding. Try looking for APA Rated Sheathing C-D Exterior plywood. You can use any panel thickness with a span rating for 16" spaced studs, but with 24" studs, use ...
1
I've used Bondo (the automotive body filler) for this type of thing. It adheres better (in my experience) than wood putty, is stronger, and is similarly easy to sand. It also cures by an epoxy-like chemical reaction with a separate hardener, so it hardens quickly without cracking no matter how thickly you need to apply it.
It's typically available in ...
1
(adding this because I came across it while reading about installing plywood T&G subfloor)
A warp means the convex face is larger than the concave side.
Set it out on a sunny day, with the convex face towards the sun. As it dries, it will shrink.
To help things along, add moisture to the concave side. Either a light misting of water (spray bottle or ...
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