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0

I had this same issue. A new Moen faucet in my bathroom and after a few months it started leaking from the tap. Rather than run out and get a new cartridge I attempted to see what may be causing the problem so I pulled off the cold water handle (which was leaking, hot water handle seemed fine) and using my hand I slowly turned the top of the cartridge and ...


1

It is possible this was originally used for a wood fired water heater? Perhaps This would have been the precursor to the wood/pellet stoves currently in use in some parts of the country. Maybe someone wanted a fancy outhouse (or other out building) with hot water. Very odd scenario!! What to do now? It depends on how much time and money you want to ...


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Original owners planned on an outdoor cooking area on the deck. Hot water to an outside sink. A natural gas line next to it for a grill.


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There is not enough information for a complete answer, however, if there is no known drain feeding into the top of the 'T', then it is likely that the T is functioning as the vent for that portion of the drain system. It doesn't look like it was designed/installed properly, however, removing it would likely cause trouble. Most things are done for a ...


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The only way to stop it is to press it hard from above Sounds like the inner stem threads are worn out. Given the apparent age of the fixture in the photo it seems likely. You might be able to remove the inner parts and get new ones. Given the value of single taps it is simply not worth your time and gas to do that kind of repair. Definitely get a ...


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If you are on a municipal/utility water supply I'd guess that a valve in the system was turned off, and then it (or another valve, if they were bypassing a section of pipe) was turned on. If the problem recurs on a frequent basis, that may not be it. For a one-time or infrequent event, that's my best guess with this little detail to go on.


1

That screw is most likely a standard machine screw. If you can remove it, then bring it to the local hardware store to see if you can find a replacement. Make sure that the replacement is brass. Most other screws will end up corroding and aren't suitable for plumbing. To remove the screw, you may need to use a screw extractor. Before you try that, see if ...


1

The easiest and first thing to check is the trim pieces around your valve knob(s). These trim pieces usually come with a cheap foam gasket, which crumbles apart after a while. Then water runs down the wall, gets behind the trim, and goes into the wall. When you take the trim pieces off, if the gaskets look bad, scrape them off and replace them with a bead ...


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Please make sure you can still get to the outlet. OPTION 1 : If the cabinet can be moved than it's fine. Electricians know to move things and look for plugs when problems occur. Therefore its accessible. OPTION 2: If its a permanent cabinet, Cut out the back of the drawer. In Canada that is a code requirement and generally in America , your code out ...


2

The reason why the plumber says this is that the cost to replace just the screw (for him) would be greater than the cost to replace the whole handle and valve assembly. This is because he can replace the whole handle assembly in 10 minutes, but it would probably take him at least 30-45 minutes minimum to find and install a perfect replacement screw. If you ...


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There is no safety reason to do so. So, if you do not need the outlet feel free to block it. Code typically requires outlets every so-and-so many feet along a wall, but this is a convenience requirement, not a safety requirement. If you find it more convenient to have the cabinet there and do not care about the outlet, then there is no legal requirement ...


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I'm not sure if you are still looking at this. Your proposal will 'work' with the addition of a check valve to prevent the high pressure from back filling the storage tank. However, you may as well disconnect the storage tank as it won't do anything as the high pressure supply will always be dominant. The proposal you have drawn will result in you storing ...


1

You should cut out the back of the cabinet.


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Heat both parts moderately and safely (ie, don't set the house on fire) concentrating on the Tee or outside part. Then apply ice to the pipe (ie, the "inside part" of the joint.) This is usually a more practical (and less frustrating) approach than trying to heat one and cool the other at the same time. The idea in play is to expand the outer part and ...


0

It may be possible but I would be concerned that the age and condition of the pipe might make it brittle and not good for tapping threads into. My suggestion for a solution would be to rent a "core augur" and drill a new hole nearby through the foundation, and fix the pipe outside the structure. Run the new pipe through the new hole and abandon the old ...


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That "weight" you refer to is the stopper. If the trip lever won't stay down, you may need to replace it. The spring is supposed to hold it in the down position, which actually holds the stopper up. Even if you adjusted the lever attachment to hold the stopper higher up, if the lever will not maintain that position then the stopper will drop down and ...


1

A tile guy I've been working with gave me a great pro tip recently: do all the plumbing in a shower in a vertical straight line, and use a single vertical line of accent tiles to cover them up, going floor-to-ceiling. This way, if you ever need to bust up tiles and access the pipes behind them, you only have to re-do that single line of tiles, not the whole ...


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Note that if you are retiling you will have to do that whole wall. There is no way to retile just that section. Your plate idea will work. It will need to have a rubber/felt backing around the perimeter of the backing. Then just silicone around it. I doubt it will look good but it depends on what you want. Realistically if you did a good job of ...


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It will corrode quickly. The Aluminum will break down.I recommend that you put a non-metallic barrier between the two. If you want to do it on the cheap, and If you have some Never-Seez or even some PTFE tape laying around, do it. Check it in a few months, replace the barrier, check again later. Galvanic Corrosion happens because of the different in ...


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Aluminum and brass with an electrolyte between them (water) can still result in galvanic corrosion. Are there any plastic (PVC) fittings you could use for this application? I would choose a plastic fitting if possible.


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Go for it. The only thing that doesn't work well with aluminum is steel like black pipe etc. Aluminum and brass are compatible.


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If there is already a trap underground, you won't need a trap under the sink - indeed if you added one, you will have major problems with draining with a double-trapped setup.


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I did this only using mortar mix, worked out great except for the gray color.(My flange was 7/8 inch high ) We ended up liking that wide gray band around the base.


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This idea will be better than nothing, and it may not stop it all, and if you have large tile rather than small tile, there will be less chance of damaging the wall. Since the water supply lines are PEX or something similar, you might could use those too. But to get at what the fix is, push the copper pipe that is at the top that goes to the shower head, ...


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You can put a shutoff in the yellow area if there's nothing ELSE feeding off the hidden part of the waterline. If there was a shutoff above the ceiling it should have an access panel, but code violations are a dime a dozen with things like this. Given the "handle-fall-off" situation I'd suggest overcoming whatever fear of drywall repair may be holding you ...


-1

No. It will not affect it. think of it like this, your softener's distributor tube is naturally 3/4" pvc or also known as 1.05" OD. So no matter what size your house pipe is, it will be reduced at the softener. It's a short distributor tube and the difference between a 1" and a 3/4" is very minimal.


3

As stated in comment, it's really very unlikely that the steam supply is high pressure steam (per the standard nomenclature of the industry) for a multitude of reasons - too hot, requiring a dedicated, licensed boiler operator, and the commissioning and annual inspections would have failed the copper pipes before it was ever fired up. Also, someone would ...


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There are three possibilities: Faucet has a male connector, pipe in house has a female connector, you can unscrew it. Faucet has a female connector, pipe in house has a male connector, you can unscrew it. Faucet is soldered onto a pipe. Most faucets are sold with a male connector on the outside of the faucet pipe, and a solder connector on the inside. A ...


1

The CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) is approved as a drop and in concealed stud cavities; however, the manufacturer's installation instruction regarding protecting the piping in the stud cavity needs to be followed. Usually strip wound conduit is required for 12" from locations that secure the csst (terminations and penetration at the top or bottom ...


2

The refill tube goes into the overflow tube and that water fills the bowl after each flush. However, the original poster is correct that a lot of water is wasted because once the bowl is filled with water to a certain line and if the tank isn't filled yet, the refill tube will keep flowing and the additional water added to the bowl via the overflow tube ...


1

Worst case is that you bust a soldered fitting (very difficult) and have to open the wall up, which you would have had to do to replace a soldered fitting anyway. Since your water is already shutoff, give it a hard turn and see what happens. Personally, I'd open the wall up even if it's threaded and sealed with pipe dope. Because after you replace the ...


1

Municipal Water systems require a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV). It is not recommended to have the house psi above 90. 70 is the norm in most municipal systems. An expansion tank is needed if there is a check valve installed on the in line. If there is a water meter, there is an excellent chance of one being installed. Many water utilities mandate check ...


0

I ended up asking a plumber to come. He tried a bunch of approaches with chisels, screwdrivers, hammers, pliers, to no avail. Then he got a metal cartridge extractor and it pulled out the cartridge within a minute.


0

Capping that third copper line with a soldered copper cap in an unaccessible space should not be a problem at all if you do not need it. But I would not trust a push cap, shark bite type fitting.


0

Probably just need to seal the threads. We always use pipe thread sealant instead of teflon. Its cheap, easy to apply, and almost impossible to goof up if you actually coat the threads all the way around. Just keep it out of the inside of the pipe and only get it on the outside.


1

Yes: your proposed cross-connect will maximize pressure on the outflow. But, as aaron commented, you will need to put a second check valve on the low pressure line between the cross connect and the tank to avoid losing pressure back to the tank (or, worse, blowing it out since there is presumably no shutoff valve on the tank outlet).


1

is this likely to be a leak? If it has been happening for more than a week and there is no sign of water, like a discoloured or damp patch on the ceiling or wall, then no. is there another explanation? When pipes heat up, they expand, as they expand they rub against the woodwork or other material they are fixed to. Frctional forces cause the pipe ...


1

If there's a valve, then turn it off and remove the pipe. If you're concerned the valve will leak, then shutoff the water to that line, remove the valve and cap the pipe there (or replace any T's with a straight fitting). Leaving the pipe and capping the thin refrigerator line will be difficult and error prone, and you're still left with a valve and two ...


2

I installed a brass ball valve about 13 years ago with the handle pointing against the flow when in the on position. It has worked perfectly. My valve is female by female so the direction did not matter when assembly the piping. In short: a ball is round so direction does no matter. If a valve must be installed in a certain direction is should have an arrow ...


2

I would advise against Drano. The sulfur smell you are smelling is because it is mainly composed of Sulfuric Acid. If you smell it throughout your house it might be damaging your pipes. To clear a clog I would recommend a plunger and a drain snake before resorting to any acids. If those do not work I would recommend a plumber. However, be cautious now. If ...


-1

No, it won't make volume. Two half inch equals one inch of flow and the 3/4 inch is smaller and it will not let you get the same volume. It will flow faster, but less volume.


2

It depends on your flow rate, and the length of your run. The short answer is you won't have a noticeable pressure drop for a relatively short run. Using this table, the nominal inside diameters of the pipes actually give you a slightly greater cross sectional area from the two 1/2" pipes (0.608 sq. in. vs 0.533 sq. in.). However, the head loss is still ...


1

Check all the tanks that hold water - they will have overflows in case of overpressure or in case an old fill-valve starts to fail to close completely. If the plumbing system has header tanks for cold and/or hot-water, these have overflows for when the fill-valve gets old and fails to close completely. Also lavatory cisterns have overflows for the same ...


0

Re-replace them with cast iron ;-) it is a known thing that CI drain pipes are quieter than plastic drain pipes. Other than that, insulate them with mineral wool or fiberglass to deaden the sound.


1

We have lived in this well-built and well-maintained 25-year-old home for three years and for three years, one toilet smelled like old urine within hours of thorough cleaning. We called a plumber who said all was working well, and that there were no leaks. I finally had the plumber come back and pull the toilet and check the wax ring. Which was FINE, but ...


0

It could also be that you may have some pockets of air in the pipes that cause them to jump or knock. You can try shutting off you main water valve, then open all of faucets until there is no water left. Then with the faucets and spickets open turn the main valve on.


1

You need to evaluate where the leak is really coming from. Use some paper towels to thoroughly to dry the whole fitting area. Then watch to see where water first appears. I suspect that you may find the leak coming from here: ..as opposed to the PEX joint. It appears that you did not use a Teflon sealing tape on the pipe threads.


0

It's probably just vibration making the pipes wiggle at a certain flow rate where the vibration wavelength oscillates just right to be amplified into actual pipe movement. Wherever you have access, strap down the pipes. If you do not have access, you will need to decide how irritating the noise is compared to the work required to gain access and strap down ...


3

It's a trick question, you can never get 4 bar of pressure with only a 20 m head. The pressure due to a vertical column of liquid is equal to the density x height of the column x the acceleration due to gravity (little g = 9.8 m/s2). Your height is 20m Density of water is 1000 kg/m3 g = 9.8 So, pressure is 196,000 Pascals 100,000 Pascal per bar, so ...


0

Given that 20 meters of head only equates to 1.96 Bar (1m elevation = 0.0980413943 Bar), no pipe alone will do this - you'll need a pump, or you'll need to accept less than 2 Bar as all the pressure you have available. Then you need to determine the flow rate you wish to operate at for sizing the pipe - you'll get 1.96 bar with any size pipe and no flow ...



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