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6

When installed properly, the life should be indefinite. The hot/cold should have little effect, unless those temperatures are extreme.


1

I've installed many filter systems this way, it's very common. (random from web; not my install) Installing the filters themselves is pretty straight-forward, with a couple things to note: Some people (including this picture above) install a bypass to the filters, but I'd actually not recommend that. It's too easy to accidentally open and have mostly ...


0

I've looked at using 2 valves, one on each supply line, and a T fitting. I could vary the opening of each valve to get to the desired temperature. But somehow I don't feel like this is the right way. I think opening valves halfway damages them? Also I feel that hot water could get back into the cold line that way? Yes, you are overthinking this. How do ...


2

You might want to consider installing a utility/laundry faucet, in place of the spigot. This will allow you to connect both hot and cold supply lines, and will have a built in mixing valve to allow you to vary the temperature of the water. They also tend to have the proper threads on the spout, to allow the attachment of a garden hose. You'll have to ...


1

Poorly preforming contractors make things up to explain problems which they do not understand......this is especially true if said contractors were involved in any way with the installation of the object(s) in need of explanation. As this is the case here, I would like to say that as a retired General contractor and an experienced plumber......you are being ...


0

I've had exactly this issue, on the hot line to a tub, and eventually (disassembling the piping as I went) found an elbow almost plugged with solder - a half-inch pipe with a 1/16" or smaller hole through the nearly-plugged fitting. Someone got over-entusiastic feeding solder (probably 40 years ago for the one I found - and someone lived with the tub that ...


2

You might be overthinking this. Grab a portable dishwasher adapter and screw it on the aerator threads of a faucet. Hose connection done by adapter, mixing valve done by faucet, done.


13

There would be no such thing as "excessive wear" on a bathtub drain - unless there was caustic material being poured down the drain which ate away at the drain pipe and joints.....although from the sounds of it this is far from the case here. For the sake of discussion let us assume that the tub is a quality name brand product. It may be that there was ...


0

cut the tailpiece about 1" to help with slope toward drain and add a tee with a pro vent. Fit check it on 1 and 1/2" pvc about 2' long and slide it up inside the wall...you may have to cut the pvc down...once you get the correct fit glue it together.


0

Broken/damaged drain pipes can be internally lined with a resin impregnated sleeve. There are limitations on size, size and type of damage, type of pipe, access, and pipe configuration. Check out this video: trenchless liner


1

These units are designed for the exact application you have. The white pipe in your picture is designed to be used with the special telescoping waste tee assembly that should have been included with the unit. The picture @Comintern linked to is the way you must plumb it. You will need to carefully remove the fittings that are attached to the pipe coming out ...


2

You'd need to reduce the entrance (easy, fittings are made) and RAISE the pipe in the wall (possible but a relatively huge amount of work/expense.) So I'm not quite sure what you mean with "cut down" the drain pipe. As shown in the pictures, I'm inclined to say cut a notch in the back of the drawer for pipe clearance, and get the reducer you need to go from ...


-2

NuWater USA Makes a system that is NSF and Water Quality Association (WQA) aproved.


6

I would never, under any circumstance allow someone to tunnel under my house. Anyone in proposing this is a complete moron. It's a drain pipe that is probably 6-10 inches wide. The normal solution - which I have done 20+ times for clay pipes in my area - is to break apart the concrete above the drain pipe, dig it out, replace. While we are inside we ...


5

$48,000? Challenge the findings. Tell them to scope it and show you the video, pay them for a DVD. Then get a second and third opinion. Ask them the cost to just dig up and fix the exact area of concern (instead of all the pipes). Whatever that price is will still be too high so tell them you cannot afford it and ask what is the bottom line cheapest price ...


1

How warm is warm? It's very likely that the air temperature is playing a role in the water temperature in your cold water pipes. As your first questioner asked, does the water get colder if you leave the tap on for a little while? If it does, then you know that the water is colder at the source (your well, or the city water supply) than it is after it's ...


2

Diverting the leak up to the shower head using the diverter valve should not be a problem, but your assumption that fixing it will be "pretty easy" may not prove to be true. You are correct in that hot and cold supply to the tub/shower valve needs to be shut off. Sometimes apartment shower valves have built in shut-off valves called integral stops. ...


0

Is there any way you could add a pipe going through the wall, and direct it to an adequate exterior drainage spot, and then route the gutters to that pipe? That said, if this atrium is open to the sky, redirecting the output from the gutters isn't enough if you want to add a solid floor. Where is the rainwater going to go? You'd probably need to add a roof ...


0

Can you tear up the courtyard and put a leach field under it before laying down the floor, thus preserving the through-ground drainage now present? Can you consider rain-permeable material as flooring? (Some ideas here and here, or investigate other options.) Other than those, the only idea I've got is a sump, a pump, and run the pump's output thru ...


0

If the tank and drain-field are correctly sized for the home and occupants, it is designed to be pumped about once every 5 years. If you have more than 2 people per bedroom living there, you may want to pump it more frequently. Fewer people than bedrooms and you may not need to pump it as much. You should have it pumped and inspected when you move in. If ...


0

Bonus: your laundry is on the 2nd floor? Great. You're lucky. Install a laundry to landscape system, where that drainwater goes through new piping directly to a landscaped area outside, preferably one involving shrubs and/or trees. You can install a two way diversion valve for seasonal use, or messy load use. Some jurisdictions give automatic permits ...


0

So the washing machine is draining into the basement floor drain? Sloppy solution. What's that draining into? Is it routed to a sump (with or without pump), the septic drains, some other leach field, the ravine behind the house...? Normal setup goes directly into the septic drains, just as with any other sink or bathtub. The question is why whoever kluged ...


0

If the problem is not in your new drains, check the drain to the sewer. When I lived in Mississippi, I suddenly had problems with water backing up all over the house. When the washer drained, water came up into the tub. When we flushed the toilet, it backed up. I was telling my new neighbor about it and she said her toilet had been backing up, her tub ...


1

Is your drain flowing to a septic tank or to a sewer line? Do you have a boggy area in your yard where the drain is emptying? That could mean you have a broken, collapsed drain. Is there a moisture problem under the house or along the foundation? It may be time to install new drains from the house to accommodate the water flow of the modern house. In ...


0

Drain pipes tend to build up a layer of fat and goo on the walls of the pipe over time. Pipes can be cleaned and maintained by pouring a large container of boiling water down the drain. Or by treating with an inexpensive commercially available enzyme that will multiply forming a colony that actually eats the grime off of your pipes.


1

Well... you've got 22 gallons coming out of the washing machine each cycle. You've got about 2 1/2 gallons in the vertical pipe, and another gallon in the horizontal pipe, so you'd need to store another 20 gallons to be reasonably safe if you go down that route. I wouldn't advise it -- drain water has all sorts of junk in it. Personally, I've never heard of ...


0

It looks like there is 4-6 inches of horizontal run after the trap and it's a size up from the drain size, so I'm not so quick to blame the S-trap effect, but it's certainly a possibility. Where is your vent? It may simply be too far away to be effective and you'll need to install an air admittance valve. You may also try to snake out the pipe between ...


3

Yes, it's an effective S-Trap. S-Traps are known for siphoning and new construction only allows P-Trap installations. You have a long horizontal run after a P-trap that prevents the siphoning effect. The outflow on an S-trap is a straight drop which under high flow conditions can allow more water to be drawn out of the trap than is needed for a water seal, ...


2

It will decrease pressure (when there is water flowing - no effect when water is not flowing) the question being "how much?" The answer will vary with how much water flow there is. This Company's 3" one is only $39 more than their 2". Max peak flow is 396 .vs. 880 Gallons Per Minute (GPM), and max continuous flow is 220 .vs. 528 GPM - so, how many ...


4

Reducing the pipe diameter from 3" to 2" will not decrease the static pressure in the down stream pipes if all valves are closed and no water is flowing. The restriction to 2" will cause a decrease in flow rate to the down stream piping assuming that the head pressure in the 3" line in front of the meter stays the same as with the original 3" meter. If ...


2

Yep, you've got to cut it and should then use a Fernco coupling to plumb a modern PVC flange into the system. In the past I've tried unscrewing cast iron but it always breaks, sometimes shattering past a convenient cut point!


1

You could add a compression fitting between the wall and that device. Tighten the compression fitting at whatever angle you want. That won't give you a flush mount though.


1

You have no hope whatever of it not leaking if you've turned past the end point and backed up. You squish out whatever sealant you have, and then back up and leave a gap. It MIGHT seal if you remove it, apply pipe dope (or tape, but I have better luck with dope), and return it just to the point where it's upright (count turns as you remove it.) If it's ...


1

Your picture doesn't quite give enough information. I think you are saying that whatever that box is (a water heater?) connects to a threaded pipe coming out of the wall. Am I right? If so, the other end of that pipe is probably also threaded. Remove the water heater, then use a pipe wrench to remove the threaded pipe from the wall. Get a new pipe that is a ...


0

My tub loudly gurgled when the toilet was flushed. Found out it was a vent problem, but it was a bad vent cap under my bathroom sink that screws on to the top of the PVC pipe. I unscrewed it and put a new vent cap on and problem was solved. a vent cap can be bought at a local hardware store for $6.00 to $8.00


0

I ended up pouring some very liquid mix of waterproof cement down the pipe and catching it again at the exit, it seems that is filled the little cracks inside the pipe. It's been a few weeks of testing by pouring water down and I don't see any leaks anymore. I have to specify that the pipe was horizontal and the cracks on the bottom part of it, that allowed ...


0

There is no need for difficulties like raising the whole foor just to raise a toilet, or cutting the pipe to install a new flange which is lower. I recently raised a toilet almost 1 cm off the floor easily using grout. I had to do this after attaching a repair ring onto the flange, which has broken closet-bolt slots, but is otherwise solid. The repair ring ...


0

Based on size, location above the baseboard and distance from the wall and the fact that it is a screw-on cap, I'd guess gas.


1

The only way would be to actually disconnect all the piping and reconfigure your set-up so that the disposer is on the "main sink" side. It should actually be fairly simple to do, but it is a lot of hard work on your back under the cabinet. Removing and re-setting the disposer is not rocket science but if you have not done it before or are unfamiliar with ...


2

Try white vinegar. Drip it into the opening and let it sit for a while or soak a small cloth and leave it on top. Vinegar removes limescale from my flower pots and pet fountains.


0

You could plumb a 3-outlet manifold feeding 3 individual shower flow controllers. You would end up with the single digital temp/flow controller upstream, then three separate single-handle shower flow controllers downstream. I have seen a similar set-up, the temp. controller (mixer) is on the backside of the wall so employees only have access and water is ...


5

Probably a charcoal filter. Probably disgusting (people put them in, change the filter a few times, and then get bored of buying the filters, which turn into a gross mess as often as not.) Or the filters become unavailable since these are not exactly a standard item. I'd strongly suggest removing it; if you want to keep it and can find filters for it, at ...


1

I don't know if this will work in your situation, but I have a mobile home with very hard well water, and no room for a water softener. The water lines are plastic tubing with some brass shutoff valves. When a toilet or faucet became clogged, I would just turn off and remove the supply line to the fixture and squirt it into a bucket. If that didn't clear it, ...


0

If you already have water hammer arrestors (you probably do, since this is the only tap that hammers), you'll need to turn off the water supply and drain the system to the lowest point in the system. You'll need to leave that drain point open for quite a while, depending upon the arrestors you have. When it's fully drained & the arrestors are all full of ...


0

If your bathroom faucets are single lever, you are probably opening both the hot and cold valves, which is allowing cold water to pass into the hot supply side since both connect to the spout. If your kitchen sink has two separate valves, you'll get the same result by opening both the hot and cold valves at the same time.


0

Many faucets do not have integral check valves and will allow water to pass from the hot into the cold and vice versa. Typical this isn't an issue as there is pressure on both sides. How much water comes out of the washing machine faucet? If it's just a little sputtering, then it could simply be some water passing through the bathroom faucet back into the ...


0

Try to scrape/sand away the paint to see what material you find. As mentioned in @Pigrew's answer it could be black iron steel, galvanized steel, or brass. However, it's hard to tell by the photo if it is a threaded cap or not. If it's not threaded it could be copper, which is used for both water and gas. And for the sake of completeness, it could also be ...


4

Short of opening up the end-cap, there isn't a good way to tell which it is. You could try banging/hitting a pipe elsewhere in the house, to see if you can hear the banging. Also, look at other exposed piping to see what materials were used for the various utilities. Pipe like that could be water, but it also could be oil or natural gas. There is a chance ...


0

There is no specific torque or other fixed installation technique. Use tape dope, tighten to hand tight, 2-3 more turns and leak test the bloody thing.


1

If by "bar-sink drain cover" you mean a perforated strainer like this: then it might be related to the relative "softness" or "hardness" of your water supply. Where I am from we have "hard" water (high in mineral content) which has high surface tension and will not drain as easily through fine strainers. "Soft" water has less or no dissolved minerals but ...



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