New answers tagged plumbing
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Every one has been offering good advice. How about using a used automobile radiator in place of your coil as the heat exchanger?
Please post a link to the youtube video, thanks.
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Pretty sure a vent pipe (the one going through the roof) is blocked. There should be a vent pipe coming off the main drain stack, perhaps not obvious in a multi story home. Birds and other critters are sometimes the cause
Vent blockage means air is reversing through the toilet trap, removing the protective water (which keeps sewer gas from entering home). ...
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I have a feeling your design looks like this:
You should do this instead:
If you make 16 parallel copper circuits, that would have an equivalent cross-section or a 2 inch pipe. However, I would probably do more like 20 circuits because all of those bends are going to introduce additional pumping/pressure losses and the extra circuits will make up for ...
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If you can't add parallel paths through the heater as @redgrittybrick suggests, add a bypass with 2" pipe and a throttling valve. The valve will let you balance overall flow vs heat gain.
The bypass arrangement will lessen the strain on your pump seals and motor.
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I believe the pressure loss depends on the flow rate. There will be some loss of pressure.
To avoid it you need 2" copper pipe or multiple parallel 1/2" pipes (probably more than 16).
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What you call a pressure tank is actually a storage tank. RO filters always produce a very low flow which gets stored in the storage tank to supply the user.
You probably need to depressurize your storage tank below your water supply pressure so that the storage tank will accept the water from the filter.
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If the water line to the filter unit is joined with the normal cold water line with one of those self piercing saddle valve units then I would suggest taking a good look at that to see if the valve is faulty, partially plugged or only partially pierced into the main water line.
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I literally just finished this. I had black cast iron via 1967.
If you have all original black iron pipes then yours are about end of life - they last about 50 years without issues. They literally rust from the inside and it reduces the amount of space for things to drain in your pipes and the rust allows things like hair to snag and start clogs... ...
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Vertical sections of cast iron rarely need replacement. Horizontal ones do. I would get a quote(s) from a plumber that does/has connections with sewer line installations.
They should start with a in-line camera review.
Chances are most of your work will be in the (hopefully you have) basement and yard to the main sewer, but again, don't panic until ...
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The airated water treatment systems (AWTS) are a two tank system usually new ones have a inner and outer tank in the same unit. It is possible to buy a two tank seperate system and you could use your old septic tank as the first tank then run the outlet into the awts unit. ...
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If I had to guess, it's draining some of the water that was still caught up in the shower head after you turned it off (and held there by atmospheric pressure). After enough of the remaining water has evaporated/etc to break the seal, the rest of the water comes out. We have a similar problem with our shower head (a flat "rain" shower head on an articulated ...
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There are a few ways you can improve the situation but there isn't a true fix.
Replace/fix your shower valve. The rises and drops in your water pressure due to flushing the toilet or night time (city water pressure rises due to low demand) is allowing minuscule amounts of pressure to seep past the valve, with large amounts of time in between this could be ...
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The "problem" may be that in a shower-only configuration, the only exit path is up. The line may siphon for minutes until an air bubble breaks the siphon. I see this a lot on hand-held shower wand only setups. There usually is an anti-siphon valve that breaks and drains the wand line
In a shower-tub or other diverter configuration, @chriscudmore 's ...
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Option 1:
Mix 1 cup baking soda, 1 cup salt, and 1 cup white vinegar. Pour it down the drain and wait 15 minutes before flushing the drain with hot water.
Option 2:
Drain gun from your local Home Depot.
Option 3:
Drano(sodium hydroxide, sodium nitrate, sodium chloride, and aluminum).
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I would skip all the chemicals and just use a drain auger on it to clear the build up. After you break through then you could probably rely on hot water to clean anything remaining out.
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Moving water, preferably hot. If you can get a small flow that
doesn't back up then it will dissolve away easily.
Environmentally safe degreaser/cleaner, I prefer Simple Green
Baking soda and vinegar, it will clean almost any small clog. With something that dissolves easily like soap, the extra air bubbles produced will help getting it clean with less ...
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Any of the below options are good for a start without a more specific problem
Mo-flow drain acid (made by Momar)
Caustic Soda
Boiling water
Drain Eel
Draino
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I would start by doing what the previous poster suggested by using a tubing cutter to remove any deformed tubing. I would then use "Shark Bite" fittings to join the two ends. Shark Bites are universal fittings that just push on. With them, you can join copper to copper, copper to PVC, Copper to pex, PVC to pex, etc. They are a bit expensive, but are quick, ...
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I'd use a small tubing cutter to cut tidy/clean ends on both ends of the 1/4" copper pipe ...
... cutting off whatever portions of the 1/4" copper pipe are kinked or deformed. I'd then slip on a compression fitting called a 'union' ...
... which requires tightening with a pair of wrenches. Wikipedia has a general article on compression fittings here. ...
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The WD-40/3 in 1 oil failed to loosen the flange. It continued to spin despite attempting to hold it with pliers as I turned the nut counterclockwise. I eventually hacksawed the tailpipe and the flange was easily removed.
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It actually has to do with your brass fitting, these fittings are corrosive when attached to copper.
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How much trouble will depend on if you need to keep the quick disconnect device or not. If it needs to remain, you will need to somehow transition from a hose end fitting of the washer connection to whatever threading your disconnect adapter that fits on the faucet uses. I know I've seen faucet to hose adapters, but there will be a gender issue where both ...
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So I called them today and the order is:
gravel -> box of mag mix -> bags of calcite.
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Dishwasher drain airgap.
It's placed above maximum sink full water level to prevent siphoning grey-water from the sink into the dishwasher if the P-trap ever gets plugged and you try to empty a full sink.
If water is spewing or leaking from the overflow slots in the cover, either the outflow from the airgap into the sink drain has become clogged ...
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1) Use a plastic ziptie (or a short length of insulated 14 gauge electrical wire):
a) Drive one screw (or a nail) part way into the top of the 2x4 blocking somewhere near the pipe. EDIT: I see in the photo that there is already at least one nail in place near the pipe ... just ziptie to that.
b) Then ziptie the pipe to the screw. Zipties are also called ...
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Just did a bathroom last year with the same situation and I used a fast setting epoxy. I had to hold each pipe strap down for 2 or 3 mins. a piece. After a couple hours of drying I took a screwdriver and could not pry it off.
The good - it is easy, won't have to move your walls, won't punch another wall while trying to screw things in in that tight area, ...
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Try a flexible extension bit holder like this or this and if its a copper pipe then use a copper pipe strap and just screw it into the wood.
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Galvanized pipe is often used when a threaded pipe is required, since it's a bit more durable than copper. Copper is a softer metal, and may not hold up as well against the potential abuse the spout could see. While it's true that galvanized pipe has corrosion problems, such a short length where it's not common for water to rest should not cause problems.
...
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Since I don't have a copy of Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), I began by browsing through International Residential Code (IRC). I came across section 3303, which says:
2012 International Residential Code (IRC)
SECTION P3303 SUMPS AND PUMPING SYSTEMS
P3303.1.4 Piping. Discharge piping shall meet the requirements of Sections P3002.1,
P3002.2, ...
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Galvanized pipes were used pre-60's. So it was to code for its time but its the worst piping to use for water. Hot water lines clog up a lot with galvanized if you have hard water. Some people use PEX tubing to replace it because its remodel friendly due to its flexibility but I've have no experience with that. Unless its clogged up I wouldn't mess with it. ...
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I remove galvanized pipe whenever possible. A brass nipple will be a much longer term connection.
However, if the plumbing elsewhere is galvanized, it may only be a symbolic gesture.
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First, a definition of "take off":
The length of pipe to be removed (taken off) such that a pipe and a fitting make a specific length. The term is a concept shorthand used by pipefitters and plumbers. This is not the same as a material takeoff, which is a list of all materials needed for a project.
Take-offs in general are specific to pipe construction ...
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I realise that this is a rather old question - but you say that the pipe coming out of the tank is around 1.5 inches in diameter. I assume that the tap has a diameter of around .5 inch. If that is the case then you are getting such a high pressure (actually velocity rather than pressure)because of this reduction in pipe diameter.
Replace the 1.5 inch pipe ...
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Thank you so much for your input guys!
While waiting for replies I did further digging and eventually figured out that it was soldered on.
So I decided to bypass changing the shut off valve since it still works even though it looks like crap and I needed a new toilet lol. Perhaps I will tackle it very soon :) I think I will end up cutting it to put new ...
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No change in pressure, may be a (very) slight increase in flow (1 less elbow).
No idea why. Perhaps they were trying out a new wood boring bit.
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There is nothing wrong with moving it to your suggested configuration. They probably went through the framing to make the entire configuration more secure. Make sure if you change it to make sure that you clamp it to the framing to make sure there isn't room for movement.
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It looks like it is soldered. You can either resolder on another valve or use a compression valve. I use compression valves for shut-offs and just installed this one.
If it isn't soldered then then the nut closest to the wall turns out and there is a pin under it. You have to take the pin out to release the compression valve - if it were a sharkbite or ...
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Typically, the valve solders to the 1/2 inch water source pipe. the outlet is a pretty standard 3/8" compression fitting. It is a little hard to tell from your pics, but it is rare that the valve would be a threaded fitting to the water source, but not unheard of. The differences between the valves pictured are that the top pic is a 90 degree 1/4 turn valve ...
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It looks like both ends just screw on.
Turn off the house water, unscrew both ends, take it with you to get the replacement (or make several trips like me).
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I just replaced the main stack in my house. Went from cast iron to pvc. I dug out about 10 foot in my basement to connect the pvc to the clay piping that goes out to my front yard.
I used a bigger version of this coupling to marry the pvc to the clay and it is buried underground and under concrete.
Inspector told me that they only start allowing these ...
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With either propane or MAPP gas it is actually very easy to get the joint too hot. You can actually boil the solder out of the fitting or into the pipe depending on your torch placement. Not so much with larger piping, but with 1/2" it is easy to do it. You should only use about 1/2" to 3/4" of solder to make a joint on that size; don't add more or you could ...
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I am going to answer this from a purely economic point of view. I helped my dad flip houses while growing up, have worked on a team flipping and have redone my entire house.
People have mentioned foundation, plumbing, electrical, roof, whatever. It does not matter. It matters on your area of expertise and who you know. If you know a guy who does great ...
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I have done a ton of reading on the issue of the so-called "flushable" wipes. They are not flushable and I have stopped using them in my home. The word "flushable" is not controlled in the industry at all; it is only used by the manufacturers.
My neighbor had a sewage flood of a foot in his finished basement. The plumber found the cause to be these wipes ...
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