Tag Info

New answers tagged

1

How many splines are on the broach, how long is it and what's its diameter? As according to faucetpartsplus.com, that's all you need to get started. They have an entire list for spline counts, listing them (below) to specific manufacturers. If you can't figure it out, they suggest sending them a photo, as they're very interested in selling you parts; ...


1

Your pressure tank is what is considered "water-logged". If it is a bladder tank, the bladder inside the tank may need to be re-pressurized or perhaps the bladder tank needs to be replaced. There is an air valve on top to do this, if it only needs re-pressurizing. To my recollection, and I may be wrong, and possibly your specs may differ, the tank, with no ...


0

PEX inherently leak at the two pinch points, because their is no contact in this area. Just put worm-hose-clamps on them. Use pipe compound too.


0

The problem is PEX clamps leak around the two crimp point areas. (Unlike hose clamps that have an overlap and have uniform area on the seal area) This leak can lead to pop offs and thus house interior flooding. Therefore homerun designs (no crimps behind walls and ceilings) allow for the leak and pop-offs to contain the water damage to a one area.


1

That screw seems to have found the magic spot and I think it's unlikely to happen again, however you might want to somehow strap a protection plate around the Tee; I wouldn't worry about the rest of the pipe.


-4

That was what someone attempted in one of my houses. The correct fix, which I finally did after several episodes of sewer smell, was to add a riser to make up for the thickness of the tile floor. Morons and plumbing do not mix well.


2

I only do it if the floor is uneven as in stone tile. It's way more difficult to do a repair later if the toilet is stuck to the floor.


0

If those were crimped-on end-caps you'd have to cut them off - but they look like "sharkbite" fittings, which can be removed. If you lack the special tool, close an adjustable wrench down to the size of the pipe, and use it to push the tan collar into the fitting. Search for "sharkbite adjustable wrench trick" or "how to remove a sharkbite" if that's ...


0

With things like that, I've found that putting a plastic bag full of white vinegar, warmed up a little is even better, will dissolve various crud and free it up. Seal it up with tape or a rubber band and leave it for a few hours or over night.


18

This is a very controversial topic. Some plumbers swear that you must seal the toilet to the floor, while others swear that you should not seal the toilet to the floor. Some guys never do it, some guys always do it, and some guys only do it depending on the flooring used. It also appears that some toilet manufacturers mention it in the installation ...


7

The actual plumbing seal doesn't have anything to do with caulking around the base of the toilet. That's all to do with the wax (typically) ring where the drain pipe and the toilet fit together, and the bolts that hold the toilet down to the floor. Caulking around the base will look a little nicer, and it'll keep water and cleaning fluids from seeping under ...


0

It is completely impossible to determine if the maxipad is still in the house plumbing or not with the information given or without a first hand evaluation of the sewer system. The only ways to be really sure are one of these: Run a cleanout snake down the sewer to check if it can snag the pad and pull it back out. Run a remote inspection camera down the ...


1

3570 has shut off valves on the valve itself. Allows you to swap out 1225 cartridge without shutting off water to house


0

I have been in the plumbing trade most of my life around 28 years and I can tell you that when it comes to tools you get what you pay for. Cheap tools will perform poorly and doesn't always do the job. I use both clamps and rings with my personal grade tools and never had a call back for a leak but I have friends in the trade who have purchased cheap ...


0

galvanized will work fine for a long, long time. Yes, in time (40-60 years) you may get enough corrosion to affect water flow, but by that time, you or someone else will have changed out the trim 3-4 times.


1

Trim the tailpiece to fit. A pipe cutter would be a bit more suitable than a hacksaw, but if you only have a hacksaw, just clean up well with a file after sawing. New tailpieces come quite long so they can be trimmed to fit.


1

Little bit of sound-proofing knowledge: People tend to think noise travels in a straight line from it's source to the reciever. It does, but a lot of it travels through indirect pathways. Drive down the road with your window all the way open and listen to the noise levels. Now drive down the road with your window only open 1/2" and listen. Now drive ...


0

Partially open a hot water spigot somewhere, then feel the pipes. The cold inlet should definitely feel cold after some water has run. While no water is running, heat is being transmitted in all directions.


3

It's not mentioned in instructions because a professional wouldn't do it that way if they had a choice. You need to get the water out of the line to heat it enough to melt the solder. That's easy enough when the pipe has been cut apart, but less so when you open the valve several inches away. While heating, the pipe will get soft and you risk deforming it ...


2

It's fine as long as the copper you're soldering to is bright and clean. When you make a cut you just get a new edge, but it's the outer surface of the pipe, not the edge, that the solder bonds to. De-solder the old spigot, clean up the pipe with some light sandpaper or emery cloth, and solder away. There's plenty of YouTube videos on the process if you're ...


2

This answer by @Tester101 says that you can desolder, clean, and resolder a pipe fitting without cutting. I would also follow his advice of practicing on spare parts before doing the real deal.


0

Cut the valve out and get a sharkbite slip-fitting. Saddle valves eventually leak at the rubber-pipe intersection. Doing it this way doesn't require you to completely drain the line -- a skilled plumber can do a copper sweat job in 30 minutes, but you can do this in 5 minutes with a hacksaw, though a tubing cutter is preferred. ...


2

You use plastic bushings. I couldn't find a photo with pipe, but here's one with electrical: This gives you the benefit of separation of materials and also a 'slip joint' to handle the expansion/contraction of pipes so they're not making lots of noises rubbing against framing members. To attach the pipe to the stud, you can use pipe clamps like this:


0

It looks like the unit has been damaged on installation, likely heat damage. The product is plastic so heat is going to cause a problem. It does state this in the instructions. Follow the instructions in the box and you won't go wrong. DO NOT subject the unit to direct heat, chemicals or other corrosive materials.


1

I would install a house water filter before it branches off to any faucets or the water heater. This should capture any dirt/sand/rust in the water.


1

I will potentially be drinking the same water that flows back in the well after the frostless hydrant is shut off - yes? No. Freezeless faucets drain their water back into the ground at their base below the frost line when turned off, NOT IN TO THE SUPPLY. The freezeless facuet drains this water so the pipes above the frost line have no water to ...


0

From what you say, the general answer is clear: the plumber did something that impaired your hot water. I'm assuming your hot water tank is far larger than 2 minutes of shower would require (let's guess you're using 75% hot water and 2 gallons/minute; that's 2 * 2 * 0.75 = about 3 gallons of hot water in your 2-minute shower). If we also assume the plumber ...


1

Generally you would just secure the PEX with some pipe clams near the valve and that would be good enough. The valve just hangs there in mine and I usually grab a pipe with one hand when I turn it.


0

To add to the tools that can be used in this situation is the crowfoot. Use it with an extension and a ratchet. (flank drive style pictured)


0

After some time looking for a proper solution, the only one I come up with is using a tubular wrench, and sawing the threaded supports that were too long. Maybe not the smartest workaround, but surely this faucet lacks a good design for assembling it. These are some tubular wrenches similar to the one I used:


0

Long shot: perhaps this is one of those energy-saving shower heads that automatically turns off when the water supply has warmed up. You then flip a level on the shower head to restore flow for the duration of the shower. This is for people who turn on the shower to let it warm up while they go do something else; it stops water waste after the water heats ...


3

Check the temperature of the main home water supply pipe, and compare it to other pipes in the house. Nothing else will be colder, but the other cold water pipes shouldn't be much warmer. If you find a presumed cold water pipe that's significantly warmer than the main supply, then you can search for the source of the heat. If, for instance, the washing ...


1

Replacing the current pipe nipple with one that is slightly shorter is the best way to go here. The thing to do is to simply cut off the length of the current nipple by the requisite amount and then get that end threaded slightly more. The re-threading step is necessary because the pipe nipple threads are a tapered thread. If you do not have the tools to ...


-1

Cut the line before it leaves the cabinet and then cap it.


0

Looking at the picture looks like you need to save up some money and have it all replumbed. Or just deal with the gurgling. But I'm just a master plumber.


0

I know this is an old post but as a master plumber I would add a separate Santee for the disposal and arm over with its own trap.


0

There a countless ways that the fridge line could have been installed. A photo of under the sink would greatly help, in particular showing the connection to the water supply. Can you see where the fridge line connects to the water supply? Is it connected to the same supply that feeds the sink? If so, even with the isolation valves shut under the sink, there ...


1

You'll find the crimp fittings are a lot more available. I have found no local retail plumbing stores in my entire metropolis which sell the expansion style of anything. Also, there is no warranty on the expansion type unless you're certified so I'm told. Not that warranty claims on any plumbing install are that common or plausible anyway. A lot of plumbers ...


1

As I understand it, the expander only works on PEX-A tubing which is more expensive and not as durable/chemical resistant. I have found that in many instances I had to make a connection in a tight space and needed the compact compression ring tool. The expander has the advantage of working before the connection is made, so I suppose if you plan ahead you ...


0

Check out this product from Korky. I find that it's a lot easier to use than wax. Also it won't absorb the dirty toilet water like the Saniseal will.


0

I'm in southern Canada, for reference, and that kind of plumbing even with good insulation will occasionally freeze. Often it's not a problem of insulation, but airflow. If that plumbing gets exposed to cold airflow then you're toast. Personally, I'd probably insulate that wall with spray foam just to be extra sure. Not only will the insulation itself be ...


1

I don't claim to know California building code. That said: I don't think the building code cares what you do with your aquarium piping, so long as it doesn't connect to your residential plumbing. Do what you want with that top-off tube. As for electrical, if you want to run wire then it's a bigger deal and there are lots of rules you'll need to follow. Too ...


3

Your vanity plan should have front side doors in line with where the sink is located. Then the drawers should be off to the left or right side where there is plenty of height and space toward the back to accommodate their placement. There are multiple reasons to not put drawers in the vanity under the sink area: People stand in front of the vanity at the ...


0

With certain detail changes, option 1 can work - you need to provide for airflow below and behind the cabinets - most base cabinets have 3-4 inches of wasted toe-kick space (kudos to the clever ones with toe-kick drawers instead, but those would be a hindrance in this case) and some space between the cabinets and the wall. By making sure of the space behind, ...


0

When i installed a sump pump in my previous house, to add a sink into the basement, I had it pump up as high as it could, on about a 45 degree angle, then let it run down with the help of gravity to where i want it to discharge.


0

Neither an expansion nor a pressure tank (which are, fundamentally, the same thing, in different sizes, at different precharge levels - more like driving a nail with a sledgehammer than a wrench) will solve the root problem here unless you only use your hose for very short periods. Having apparently cleaned up all the old restrictions in the piping, you ...


0

I'm in New Zealand- here, usually the main is the only valve between any outlet and the distribution network / mains. Unless there was some other valve as well, if you turned off the main valve and flow stopped, then the main valve is 99%+* liable to be the problem. However - is there any chance that the shutoff valves under your sink also serve the rest ...


3

The hot water baseboard heating will be heating the room mostly due to radiative surfaces that conduct the heat out of the water pipe and into the air of the room. For this to work there needs to be allowance for the air in the room to naturally move from the heater area and into the room. If you cover it up it will not be heating the room in the same way. ...


1

I would count on main valve - it cound just broke. I had similiar situation last year, but in my case it was that i couldn't close the main valve. If every output - even the ones that You didn't touch - gives same response (little or no pressure), it is highly probable that main valve broke down. I would suggest calling city plumbers (as this is main ...


1

Expansion tanks absorb excess pressure, they don't maintain system pressures. I think what you're looking for is a pressure tank. While similar in design to an expansion tank, a pressure tank serves a different purpose and is typically much larger. If installed properly, a pressure tank can help keep system pressure more stable during high demand. ...



Top 50 recent answers are included