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Have you considered adding a drain and rigid metal drain pan to the water heater in its current location. That's likely to be a much saner approach? To move an electric water heater, the new location needs the following: 220v outlet on its own circuit with heavy-gauge wiring rated for an electric water heater. This is doable. If there isn't already such a ...


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In answer to your question, yes it's ok to put a vent near your sink, but there should already be a vent from your main stack to your roof. But are you asking if it's ok to have no vent except a vent near the sink? This depends on how far the other fixtures are from the main stack and other questions.


1

There are a lot of questions to ask before an answer can be given: What climate are you in? Is the garage heated or insulated? Is the hot water heater gas, electric, oil, solar, nuclear, gerbil-powered? Are going to do this yourself? You can probably get some pretty good, free advice on this by calling one or two plumbers to come out and give you a quote ...


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It would be a good idea to keep them as insulated from heat as possible. Depending on the type of cable, they could potentially release toxic fumes if they are exposed to too much heat. Generally, if you are running them near a hydronic heating system, then the pipes won't get hot enough to melt the jackets of the wires as long as you wrap the pipes in foam ...


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You have one main stack typically. All of the plumbing drains into it and goes down. The venting for the plumbing should be above the highest drain-to-main-stack connection. The venting goes up - on a typical home it would vent out the roof. If you had the vents below then you may get water/sewage in them and your house would stink and possibly drains ...


-1

If you have more time and money, the best thing is to run either a 1/2 inch copper line or a 1/2 galvanized line to the back of your refrigerator with a 1/4 inch connection on it, preferably set in the wall in plastic box. An alternate cheaper way is to run a 1/4 inch line from the 1/4 inch connection at your dual shut off valve under your kitchen sink. ...


1

1-1/4 is probably the thread size on the bottom (standard pipe threads.) The threaded part that's currently exposed is the radiator union connection, and may fit a 1-1/4" union, or it may be an odd size specific to the radiator, depending on how that company was playing the game at the time. If its a 1-1/4 union thread, you'd need to buy a 1-1/4 union and ...


0

If the pump does not short cycle, that means the bladder in the tank is OK, assuming you have seldom needed to refill it with air. A shallow well could be the root of your problem. Especially if summer coincides with your rainy season. At the beginning of last winter, along with most of the rest of it, the Northeast USA was in a drought: Upgrading our ...


1

I spent $60 dollars and bought a set of Irwin Multi-Spline extractors on-line. You can use the different sized extractors to grab onto the interior of your faucet nozzle and then you can un-screw the jammed aerator threads. You might be able to find something in the plumbing tools section of your Home Depot or Lowes. Look for pipe nipple extractors. The ones ...


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This expects a 3 inch hole and is pretty standard. Why do you think 3.25 inch is normal?


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Provided that the connection does not require waste to flow upwards, yes typically. However, checking that the waste pipes and septic system if present can handle the additional fixture is still necessary.


1

Usually it is illegal for the landlord to charge for building repairs. The only time a landlord should be able to charge is when the damage is not from normal wear and tear (like dumping a pot of rice down the garbage disposal). It's hard to guess what is causing the blockage but bet it is related to the Nu-Flo coating de-laminating and clogging the ...


1

If the atrium is open to the sky, then it will always receive rainwater when it rains. Therefore, enclosing the space is the only way to entirely divert rainwater away from the space. This points to the general solution, changing the direction in which the roof system slopes (as a useful abstraction consider the roof system to include the gutters and ...


1

The simplest way to deal with this is to use a Dremel rotary tool and an abrasive wheel to cut a slot in the fastener. You can then use a screwdriver to remove it.


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I think this is a spectacular idea and a great way to save money on a project. Some advice for you though! Branch off the main line After the cutoff valve. Have the water company shut off your water at the street. Plumbers have told me that sometimes if you cut off the water using the emergency shutoff it can fail and not cut on again. Put in a cutoff ...


1

OK...I'm embarrassed. I know I said it wasn't the filter, because every three months I take of the filters and clean them with vinegar. I went ahead and took out the aerator assembly, and there was what looked like very thin plastic stuck in the hole in the center, blocking all water from coming through. A few years ago I saw similar material in my ...


1

Any chance you're using Watts FloodSafe supply lines? They look like this. They're special supply lines that have a shutoff device that will shut off the flow of water if the flow rate increases beyond a specified rate. If that's the case, turn off the water supply valves, disconnect the supply lines at the point where it connects to the valve (not under ...


3

Do you have shutoff valves for the sink exhibiting the problem? These are likely under the sink hidden in a cabinet. If so, turn them off and remove the hot and cold water hoses from the faucet's end. With each end of the hose in a bucket, test the water supply by turning on the shutoff valve. If you get flow, then the issue is with the faucet fixture. If ...


1

There is a substantial restriction somewhere - partly-closed valve, over-soldered fitting, something like that. Your 15 seconds or so of good pressure is probably from the hose itself storing water - the slow trickle past the restriction gradually pressurizes the hose to full line pressure - as soon as you start using water, the hose contracts, and when ...


0

Found this on the internet. Ours started thumping after they changed the inside water meter. A continuous thump, thump, thump noise, consisting of evenly spaced thumps when the water is running may be caused by a under-size water meter. The noise may also be a tapping sound. The noise may appear to come from the water heater as the tank amplifies the ...


0

Copper Is the best for water and healthy , using steel hard to cut and bend above that not healthy


1

In general, yes, stainless steel is more corrosion resistant than copper. It forms a tightly bonded oxide coating which tends to prevent further corrosion. If replumbing a house where copper pipes corroded (this is more prone to happen in some areas than others due to water chemistry differences) my first instinct at this point would be to use PEX plastic ...


1

Buy a captive-air (bladder) pressure tank (accumulator) and be done with it. If you pressurize water with nitrogen without a bag/bladder/diaphragm, you're going to discover that nitrogen does dissolve in water. This is a very evolved technology where you are stunningly unlikely to invent something better than what already exists, and certain to spend more ...


0

Depending on the type of tap, your hot could be restricted. Many taps will have an adjustment screw that will change how much water comes out when it is fully open. If you have reduced flow from the hot or excess flow from the cold this can make the mixture of hot and cold go too heavily towards cold.


1

In general (which is all we can do without specifics of "what new taps") bath and shower controls in the current era include an "anti-scald" feature which deliberately limits how hot the water coming out can be (by some means, which vary, and with more or less effectiveness...) If replacing older taps, this may well reduce the maximum temperature you can ...


1

To pressurize water you can simply put a tank on the roof (or build a new water tower) and feed with pumps from storage tanks lower down. This is done in in many high rise buildings in New York were the municipal water pressure is not big enough to reach the higher floors. If the roof is not strong enough to hold a water tank (and you are not allowed to ...


0

As to backups into the sewage system, yes, a saturated drain field could cause that, no place for the grey-water to go. Check around the inspection hole on the septic tank, should be a lot of leakage if that's the case as the tank will be full with no airspace if it has clogged outflow. Excessive rain and drowned drainfields is a common wintertime issue ...


1

As said above, sound bounces around on hard surfaces. To calm the echo down you need to use a combination of diffusion and absorption. Diffusion is what causes the sound to bounce in different directions, ie a blank wall will reflect the sound in the same direction which causes it to come straight back to your ears, but if you put a book shelf in the way ...


1

Have the room's contents changed? Irregular surfaces diffuse sound more effectively, as do soft surfaces. Wall hangings, bookcases (especially if the books aren't all lined up with each other), carpets, furniture and people all absorb some sound energy and change the sound of a room.


1

Probably as a result of opening the wall to repair the plumbing, the wall facing was rebuilt. You might try texturing the wall and repainting it with a non-glossy paint. Just matching the other walls should be good enough. Also, if you have not yet returned all wall coverings, tapestries, paintings, and furniture to that wall or carpet to the floor, the ...


0

(P-trap is the area between the two horizontal washers) This question doesn't make sense because you will buy the ptrap and its size depends on the width of the pipe you pick. Look to the picture above for normal dimensions. As for the fixture outlet, the length from your sink to the beginning of the ptrap... Well this doesn't really matter and is ...


0

I suspect the water level is set too high, so it's not emptying fully. I'd try adjusting the fluidmaster fill valve (the black thing on the left) Here is a link to a troubleshooting guide for that toilet, check the poor or sluggish flush sections. http://www.watermatrix.com/proficiency/pdf/resources/Proficiency-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf Those fluidmaster ...


1

A piston pump compared to a plunger pump, from Wikipedia. The parts you specified from your picture are piston pumps. A piston pump is a type of positive displacement pump where the high-pressure seal reciprocates with the piston.1 Piston pumps can be used to move liquids or compress gases.


1

If you measure 0 psi when the tank is empty, it means the tank is not charged. Try adding air through the Schrader valve. If you can't get the pressure to increase and hold, the bladder is bad. If you measure the pressure at the Schrader valve when the tank is connected to the plumbing, you'll always measure the water pressure in the plumbing. The tank ...


0

After enough research and talking with a few different companies, this is what I have found out. Water Softener - this is good for removing Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, etc out of the water. It mainly used for getting a small degree of minerals out of the water. Using it primarily for high iron removal will decrease the life of the softener. Chlorination - ...


0

If I remember right, bladder tanks come precharged at 5 PSI when empty. Try bringing up the pressure through the Schrader valve with an air pump. What you describe is what is called a water logged tank. The pressure you add back in may only be temporary, but it should fix the pump short cycling until you get it replaced.


0

if it is a MOEN Faucet just remove the handle from the stem & turn the stem 180deg. & re-install the handle & all should be back to normal again ... Hope this cures it!


0

If you absolutely cannot remove the valve and you suspect debris, then remove any fixtures aerators adjacent to it and then figure out a way to pressurize the fixture you deem blocked...blow that stuff right out. Will it cause more damage than good? Likely, but we all had fun now, didn't we?


2

Get a pinch clamp tool, like this one, and a pipe cutter. Those are the tools you'll need. One tool works for all size pinch clamps. Copper has antimicrobial properties. Copper will oxidate and leak under certain water and electrical conditions. Copper that is not completely dry and clean cannot be soldered. Pex can be fixed underwater and covered in poo. ...


1

I had a shower that smelled like cat urine for a year or more no matter what I did. I sniffed around and found it was a mold that was growing unnoticed on the tile grout. The tile is brown and the mold blended right in. It appeared to be brown and somewhat slimy. I believe it originated on the connection of the soap dish to the wall which had a layer of ...


2

2) The knobs should pull off. They may be glued in place by mineral accumulation over the years; try wiggling them to break that free. 1, 3) Depends on the type of valve; several are in common use. You won't know what you've got until you have it open.


8

When installed properly, the life should be indefinite. The hot/cold should have little effect, unless those temperatures are extreme.


1

I've installed many filter systems this way, it's very common. (random from web; not my install) Installing the filters themselves is pretty straight-forward, with a couple things to note: Some people (including this picture above) install a bypass to the filters, but I'd actually not recommend that. It's too easy to accidentally open and have mostly ...


0

I've looked at using 2 valves, one on each supply line, and a T fitting. I could vary the opening of each valve to get to the desired temperature. But somehow I don't feel like this is the right way. I think opening valves halfway damages them? Also I feel that hot water could get back into the cold line that way? Yes, you are overthinking this. How do ...


3

You might want to consider installing a utility/laundry faucet, in place of the spigot. This will allow you to connect both hot and cold supply lines, and will have a built in mixing valve to allow you to vary the temperature of the water. They also tend to have the proper threads on the spout, to allow the attachment of a garden hose. You'll have to ...



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