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5

It's definitely a backup from a source higher up than the toilet. It could still be on the same floor of the house/building. i.e. The washing machine drainpipe is likely higher than the toilet. The backup can be clear if the source is something like a shower, dishwasher, washing machine. Since you are in an apartment, you should first contact your ...


4

Yes, it's possible to bench solder, and in fact you should generally avoid soldering on an assembled threaded assembly. "Oven soldering" is a completely absurd approach to plumbing. Save it for your SMT electronics projects. If you are very uncomfortable about soldering, just use threaded pipe (steel, brass, stainless steel...) and threaded fittings.


3

Saddle valves are terrible as actual valves. They are a cheap/easy way to tap an existing water line, but that's it. After you use them a few times, you just can't rely on the needle to cleanly seal against the punctured hole of the copper pipe, and to cleanly come back out again. In your case it also looks like there may be some galvanic corrosion on the ...


3

Pressure In a system fed from a header-tank, the pressure depends only on the height of the tank. To increase pressure you have only two or three options: Raise the tank higher. Install an electric pump (these are often used for showers) If your header-tank is filled from a high-pressure municipal supply, you would probably get better pressure from that ...


3

You should have a shut-off valve before your hot water tank (your main entry valve), shut that one off, open all the faucets in your house to drain the hot water from your system, do your repair, turn on the valve that is before your hot water tank and turn off all your faucets. You could keep a bucket closeby, just to get what's left in the pipe.


3

A weak acid is the way to deal with a plug of baking soda. It'll turn the plug material into CO2 and a soluble sodium salt of the acid. It'll take quite a bit of acid to deal with a pound of bicarb though, 84 grams is 5.4 moles of the stuff. Regular vinegar runs at 5% acid strength, that's abot 200 grams per gallon, 3.3 moles. So you'd need abot 1.6 gallons ...


3

I have had my Bosch dishwasher for about a year using the same setup you contemplate, so I'm familiar with the exact drain connector you have on the dishwasher hose. On mine, there was something of a taper between the 1/2 and 3/4 section and being rather flexible rubber, and I had no difficulty stretching the 1/2 section of the fitting to fit on the 5/8 gap ...


2

Best thought I've got is to get a couple of tubing size adapters, and additional pieces of tubing if necessary, so everything's connecting to a matching size. Note that if a hose is a bit too large, a hose clamp may compress it enough to get an adequate seal.


2

You might try calling Moen about it since their faucets carry a lifetime warranty. They would send you out a new o-ring at no charge. The O-ring you got as a replacement may not be the correct size unless it came from Moen. If it is the correct size and the faucet leaks, then the faucet parts themselves may have worn out to the point that a new o-ring won't ...


2

Try a plunger first and with persistence. If that doesn't work, snake it. I don't think you'll solve this by pouring chemicals in there, and the potential for "collateral damage" (and not to mention, safety concerns) with having a pipe full of chemicals is worth the extra effort involved in the mechanical solutions.


2

I would recommend installing a faucet with an integral sprayer as a less complex alternative to modifying a porcelain fixture.


1

You might have luck using two brazing torches, like these. My concerns usually aren't about making a mess; it's getting it to work without burning holes in it and physically getting it back together after a de-solder. I'd start over, but it's worth a shot on a $20 fitting. I'd say my re-solder success rate is 50\50 without doing more work than just using ...


1

It's not to plumbing code if it's just discharged onto the yard. If used for subsurface irrigation, it can be a compliant greywater system, with the plants acting as a biofilter. The issue being that the Laundry has potential for fecal coliform (of course, if you wash with soap, most of them will be dead, but that's the reasoning, ignoring that soap and ...


1

What you are looking for is the Laundry-To-Landscape system: http://oasisdesign.net/greywater/laundry/ This system works very well and is easy to implement yourself at very lost cost. I have implemented it myself and it works perfectly, providing much needed irrigation water to my parched desert yard (not a problem in Mississippi I imagine!). And unless ...


1

There is nothing you can do to increase the pressure of a gravity feed system. Install a pressure pump on the shower line. They are automatic pumps that come on when you turn on the shower and do a great job.


1

in that short run: size of pipe has little effect on pressure. You say the tank is overhead - Is this gravity feed? In that case pressure is a result of gravity (height of water column) not size of pipe. If it is a pressurized system - a 1/2" pipe over the length you are describing would not decrease the pressure. Quite often low flow out of facets is a ...


1

You should be able to turn the body of the angle-stop if the nut is held firm with another wrench. if you turn the body and not the nut - It is less likely to damage the copper tube. Depending upon how tight the nut was set - will determine how deformed the copper pipe is. sometimes it is difficult to remove the ferrel. You have so much oxidation on this ...


1

It is made to glue to 3" or 4" drain pipe. I can't tell for sure but it looks like it glues over 3" or into 4". You need to make sure the flange and glue are compatible with your pipe. If the pipe is white it is probably PVC, make sure you have the PVC flange and glue. If your pipe is black it is ABS, make sure you have...blah, blah, blah. The flange may ...


1

Counter-clockwise is correct. However, it looks like that valve has a leak. If it sticks, I wouldn't mess with it too much as it might gets stuck open or leaky. The simplest way to fix it is to just replace the saddle vale with a new one. A better fix would be to cut that section of the pipe out and replace it with a Sharkbite T. Then you can attach a good ...


1

Start digging. And next time, use 160 or 200 PSI black polyethylene (NSF-PW rated - ie, suitable for potable water, per Fiasco's comment) rather than PVC. (You may not "need" the pressure rating, but it gets you a thicker wall which makes the pipe even more durable .vs. the normal 100 PSI stuff. And digging is something you don't want to have to do over.) ...


1

Well either the diverter isn't closing off the hot and cold to the mixing valve or there is an issue with the mixing valve itself. You wouldn't be able to physically see anything wrong with either until you start taking them apart. If you noticed your handle moving "faster" that can signal that the handle was not tightened properly or has stripped ...


1

I strongly advise against pouring gallons of Draino and equivalents down the drain - you can try the recommended dose once and if it doesn't work - get a snake. I recently battled a really nasty clog which resisted everything - except for a snake. Since it's in the bathroom, you will probably be dealing with lots of hair and soap gunk, which is difficult for ...


1

Try a plunger or a snake. More hot water might also help, if you can get it to the drain (possibly sponge out the water currently in the basin.) Adding more chemicals to the drain is probably not going to help at this point, and will make dealing with the backed up water more dangerous if you use typical "drain cleaners" on it. Those rarely work well in any ...


1

Yes, you are in an excellent position to add a basement bathroom. Definitely involve a competent plumber in this process. Properly venting and properly attaching the new waste drains to the existing waste drain will be important to prevent the basement bathroom traps from being sucked dry when waste is leaving the upper floors. This is an easy part to mess ...


1

If the tank water level is correct and you don't detect a restriction/blockage between the tank and bowl, and the drain below the toilet is clear; the problem could be a restriction/partial blockage in the toilet bowl trap.


1

I would recommend replacing all of the affected pipe. The PVC already looks pretty roughed up, and you don't want to invite more problems in by using a rubber gasket fix! Start by making sure no one is going to flush any toilets, use any sinks, or run any water. Otherwise, things might get messy. Measure the distance between the 22.5° pipe and the T joint. ...


1

They make pvc pipe-removal drill bits. There's a guide on the front that goes inside the existing pipe, and cutting wheels that remove the inner pipe without affecting the outer pipe. sample image from plumbingsupply.com, no affiliation There are also specialized tools, called a pipe debonder, that heat the pvc until the glue starts to release, and you ...


1

My first thought was venting as well. The washer and tub may have different vents and have no bearing. I'm assuming, of course, that you tried the simple approaches, like pulling out the drain stop to ensure it isn't clogged with hair and gunk, and dropping the trap to ensure it is clean? I had an issue like this with a tub drain where the vent was ...


1

where is the home? he most important question: Does it freeze in your attic? Even if it freezes - if the pipe is beneath ample insulation it is ok - Unless you are on an extended vacation - in which case must leave the heat on low enough to make sure the house envelope does not drop below freezing.


1

In our situation, it turned out the high pitched noise was coming from the thin tube that carries the water to the top of the cistern and fills the tank. The tube had become slightly kinked. Straightening it eliminated the loud noise.



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