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I'd try white adhesive tape. Duct tape or electrical tape. If that flakes out after a few weeks or months, then try something stiffer like the Formica idea.


You could try iron-on white melamine banding, usually used to finish the edges of particle board for cabinets or furniture. The banding usually comes in ¾" or ⅝" wide sizes, and it may be a challenge to find the banding in the width you need, but I know I've seen it in a few places.


I think if you use a couple coats of good primer and a finish coat of enamel paint, you should be fine. Just be sure to work it into the wood well. Two thin coats are always better than one thick coat. The cat door is gonna protect the cut edges quite a bit as well. Put a small bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the cat door bezel before you install it ...


I've had success gluing a printed PLA part to PVC using a glue from Selleys called All Plastic Fix. It's a two step procedure where you use a priming pen/marker on both areas to be joined then simply apply the cyanoacrylate glue to one side and hold pressure on the join for around 30 secs. The resulting bond is very strong and unless you're using it for a ...


Thanks to Tester101 for the answer (in the comments): the brown tube just needed to be pushed back into the clear one. Fixed!


I can't tell from the image if you just have a chunk missing or if there is a crack as well. You can get anplatic welder for $20 from harbor freight. Just used it to reattach a chunk of my platic bumper cover that broke off when someone hit me. Also used itnfor the cracks. A few key things if you want to try this: 1. Take the cover off and do the repair on ...


Buy a replacement hood ASAP if you have this thing sitting outside. An old hood will cost you $50. Everything under it will wear/rust much faster with no hood.


Sheet aluminum and pop rivets. Extra points for using old beer cans as the aluminum source, label side out, but flashing is a bit thicker than today's beer cans. Hairy (loaded with fiber reinforcement) Bondo. "Bondo Hair" is the actual label on the can. Some screws or pop-rivets might still be needed to help the bond to the plastic at the edges. Looks awful,...

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