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12

Pick up a small bucket of an all purpose patch likeDap Flexall All Purpose Filler. The all purpose stuff is a little thicker than typical joint compound, so it makes filling a bit easier. Remove the switch cover. Using a taping knife, fill in the holes by pushing the compound into the hole and drawing the knife away from the hole. Like so... Repeat ...


11

You can drywall over the plaster, but you'll have to do the entire wall and screw through the plaster into the lath/studs. Alternatively, you can fix the plaster itself. The problem is, it's separated from the lath. The fix for this is to drill shallow holes into the affected area JUST DEEP ENOUGH to penetrate the plaster, not the lath. Drill the holes ...


10

Andrew, excellent question and great photos. The problem is a bit complicated. I can see from the photos that the water migration is coming from the top, perhaps even above the top of your window. Anytime the plaster separates from a concrete base, it means the moisture is coming through the concrete, most likely from the out of doors in your case. ...


8

I would drill a small hole through the plaster first to test your theory about how much space you have behind the plaster. Your bit will stop when it hits the chimney, and you can use that to judge how much room you have. If you have enough room, I would go with a toggle bolt style fastener. If not, then you might need to use a masonry bit and drill into ...


8

Yes, knock off any bumps between coats, but there's no need to get it perfect. A screen sander on the end of a pole is the best tool for this job. And it goes without saying that you should minimize any bumps while the mud is still drying to avoid having to sand it later. Some even recommend using the premix joint compound on the last coat and, just before ...


8

I like the mesh tape for this sort of thing - because you can get material through it, and it seems less prone to peel. The self-adhesive aspect is not all that significant - it's merely holding it (barely) in place until it's embedded in compound. The compound is what actually sticks things together.


7

You can use something like this Wall Repair Patch to give some support to the new plaster. Cut out a square in the patch to match the size of the junction box and then put the patch in place (with the face plate off). Then apply joint compound to those gaps; the patch will give the joint compound some support. Finally when everything is dry then put the ...


7

Move the anchors to a stud and attach them with long screws. Use a stud finder (preferably with a deep scan capability since you mentioned plaster) to locate your studs. Or you can drill some small test holes since you already need to patch the wall. Don't use drywall screws, you need something with more shear strength. I wouldn't use anything less than a ...


6

I just got an answer by email from the owner of a company in France that specializes in artisanal plaster work. He recognizes it as a very thin lime-plaster that was applied with a bundle of leaves like these: with a whipping motion. He calls this type of finish an enduit fouetté which translates as whipped lime-plaster. He suggests that we mix a very ...


6

Most access panels have a lip that covers a good half inch around the perimeter of the opening, so you don't have to make the hole perfect. Pick up your desired panel from the store so you have a reference. It should include a door and a separate part for mounting on the wall: Start by cutting your hole slightly smaller with a drywall keyhole saw. ...


6

If your house was built before the 1940's, it's probably a layer of wood lath, followed by a standard 2x4 stud wall with no insulation. Perhaps some knob-and-tube wiring just to make things interesting. The plaster will make more dust than you thought possible (wear a mask). After the 1940's, it's probably gypsum board, but without the foaming agents and ...


6

If you're hanging curtains I'm going to assume that you are drilling above the window. In that case you've probably hit the lintel. This will be either a piece of concrete or wood (depending on the construction of the house) designed to spread the load of the wall above the window around the window. If it's concrete you'll need to use regular rawlplugs in ...


6

This question is very similar to this question: How Do I Fix a Hole In Drywall There are some good answers posted, so it is worth a read. To build on those answers for this particular case, I would recommend the medium size hole fix. The only difference is since the hole is on the small side, trying to screw the new 3" circular piece may crack or break ...


6

The two standard ways to strip paint is heat or chemicals. Both are labor intensive and messy, and chemicals are caustic. I assume you are planning to strip the paint only because you are left with an uneven surface after it was already partly removed? Otherwise, just paint over it right? It might be easier to lightly scrape to remove loose paint, then skim ...


6

Short answer: Yes. Long answer: How Use a utility or x-acto knife to cut away enough of the paper that you get a nice clean edge that isn't pulled away from the underlying gypsum. Use a very small amount of joint compound and a 6" putty knife to apply a nice thin coat of joint compound over the damaged area. Don't use too little - a little too much ...


6

Your task is to find the studs.. Electronic versions of stud finders abound, plaster is difficult for most of them. I have a 1/2 dozen of them.. I keep hoping. The problem with plaster is the lath used to support it. The lath can be a variety of materials: wood strips, metal mesh and even pasterboard. All of these materials are attached to the studs ...


6

Put a camera on a tripod, have it take a picture at the same time every day, and then overlay the pictures on each other.


6

Find the lowest point in the ceiling and place a small pencil mark there. Then measure from the floor to that point and record the measurement. Periodically re-measure and if measurement is getting smaller, then the sagging is getting worse.


6

You're already putting lots of holes in your ceiling, which will have to be patched. As long as you don't mind some holes, try this: Use approximately a 1/4" drill bit to drill into a likely spot on your ceiling. If it hits wood all the way through, you've just found a joist. If it goes through the lath and hits a void, get a piece of wire or an old coat ...


5

The cracking would imply a drying problem. I would think that the cornice was primed improperly. If the primer was of cheap quality or the painter used a paint with a built in primer for drywall. The primer may have not effectively sealed the plaster. Then the drying of the paint would be effected, basically the plaster sucking out the moisture to quickly. ...


5

A Fein Multimaster tool (or some knockoffs) work great for this type of work. You have the ability to use a blade where you can 'stab' the wall and get nice clean lines and corners. I would make sure they can handle brick though. I believe they can with a good blade.


5

CAUTION ALERT ! Dealing with a failing plaster and lathe ceiling can be very tricky. Before you make the decision to tear it down, which as Chris mentioned, a messy job, or simply put drywall over the existing plaster, you need to carefully evaluate the soundness of the lathing to the strapping or joists. What I mean by that is, are the lathes still firmly ...


5

Half a centimeter? In that case, spackle, sand, and paint. They make color changing spackle (pink to white) so you know when it's dry. Apply with a flat edge (e.g. a putty knife). Don't oversand, just enough to knock any rough edges off. And since the paint has an orange peel look, use a small roller for the touch-up.


5

The reason for waiting is to ensure that the plaster dries completely. If you paint over damp plaster the moisture has to still come out - through the paint causing it to bubble and come away. You will end up having to repaint at the very least. If you have only patched the wall then you should be able to prime and paint it sooner as there is less area to ...


5

How old is the house? Looks like that may have slats/plaster rather than drywall. Regardless, if it got wet, it needs to be replaced to prevent mold damage. Remove the trim, cut away the wall till you encounter no moisture.. most likely you'll have to replace the insulation as well, then put up some new drywall. Tape the edges, plaster, sand.. prime, then ...


5

In older structural brick buildings, it was relatively common to plaster directly to the exterior brick walls. Most of this plaster has successfully held for 100+ years, so if you were to simply remove the loose plaster and re-plaster I would imagine that it would hold for quite a long time as well. However it plastering is a bit of a lost art and can be ...


5

FEMA Earthquake Prep According to the PDF, page 5-3 Figure 2 shows methods to anchor heavy, tall furniture to vertical wall studs, concrete, or masonry with steel angle brackets. Fasten heavy objects to the building structure and not just to a movable wall in your home or office. Even large, heavy objects that appear stable should be ...


5

It's all about particle size, which is classified using the Wentworth scale or The Krumbein phi (φ) scale. Sharp Sand Sharp Sand, also known as Concrete Sand is a coarse sand with larger particles. This type of sand is typically used in concrete. φ scale - 1 to 0 Size range - 1/2 to 1 mm (0.020–0.039 in) Builder's Sand Builder's Sand, also known as ...


5

Here's my take on drywall vs skim vs full update. Skimcoat Skim coating over the plaster that is already cracking would not be a good idea. Even if you use a harder more durable mud or plaster, it will still most likely crack because of the age of your house, and the fact that your walls are already cracking (and will probably continue to do so). The ...


5

This will be a variation of what may have been mentioned already, but this is how I would handle it. For the tall vertical piece, assemble 2 pieces of 1X material to make an outside corner that will mimic the left side wall where it meets the door. At the top add an additional piece of 1X to fill the void at the wood joist or beam at the top of the door. ...



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