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For the record, there ARE different threads. I just bought a new flange (only one type was available for sale in my neighbourhood) which did match the thread count on the existing drain shoe. Particularly annoying in that I was unable to purchase a new drain shoe. Actually, the drain shoe is what I was really trying to purchase as the existing one had ...


Replacing it is the only viable option. You can buy a piece of pex and two push-on connectors for about $30 at your local home improvement store. The only tools you'll need are too cut the copper out and the pex to length - no tools needed for the connectors.


Based on your picture: Copper pipe in concrete; a problem. Copper pipe connected to galvanized iron pipe (evidently) without a dielectric union; a problem. Electrical ground connected to the galvanized iron pipe, not the copper pipe; likely also a problem, and would be a problem for the grounding if there was a dielectric union. It is just possible that ...


You have 3 or more options. #1 get a shark bite to go from galvanized to copper. #2 You need to go to a plumbing store and get a galvanized nipple and then extend your copper to the point the pipe screws into a coupling or other fitting. #3 If you don't want to extend your copper get an exact measurement and have a new piece of pipe cut and threaded. #1 is ...


Your local farm supply will have fiberglass stakes and spring clip insulators for this. For rabbits, the stakes may be too long at 4' so cut them in half to double your stake count.


You could cut a notch (like 1/4 pipe depth) in the pipe and just wrap the wire around the pipe, tucking it into the notch.


You either dissemble it from its closest union, or start cutting. If it leads to a pump, I'd advise installing unions at both ends of it, to facilitate replacements. Simply tightening this pipe probably isn't the way to go. It's likely deteriorated at the threads and that's why it's leaking. You'll risk snapping it off in the fitting to get it watertight ...


Depending on how sturdy the fence needs to be you could cut the plastic conduit to a point and hammer it into the ground. Then use plastic wire ties to secure the fence wire to the plastic pipe. If you used two ties in an "X" it would hold the wire in place but still slide up and down if adjustment is needed. If you need a sturdier fence you could put ...


you need a "union" connector. It allows both sides to tighten and then tighten union.


A lot depends upon whether you live where it can freeze. If you do then you want to bury the pipe from the house to the stock tank in the ground at a depth sufficient to prevent freezing. Then you want to use a frost-free farm or yard hydrant type valve to join with the buried water line and bring the water service up to the working level above the ground. ...


I was reading this webpage and I came across a comment that inspired me a method to check if my tube is OK. That would be to use a smoke bomb (search this keyword on that page) in a shop vac and to pump the smoke through the tube to see where it connects. This will work assuming that at the other ...

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