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Add a A - frame for support. Would be heaps stronger.


Attach the bar to the wall. Trying to leverage from the floor will require several times the lateral forces applied at the top. By attaching it at the top, the forces will be one to one. If direct attachment is not feasible, then bars which brace against opposing walls would prevent the need to drill into any wall.


It will probably be 3 to 6 hours of non-skilled labor (neighborhood kids?) to dig up the concrete and remove the whole assembly. Don't cut the post off: it will help wiggle out the base. Dig a hole immediately to one side of the concrete base of a convenient size. (There is no need to dig all around it.) A post hole digger works great. Make the hole at ...


That pipe is most likely cast so your bi-metal blades aren't going to cut it (forgive the pun). You need one of the Lenox Gold recip blades. There's few varieties but any of the Gold line should cut that pipe, or there's some specifically designed for cast although I believe those are more expensive. I've cut hardened steel concrete anchors with the diamond ...


You need a sawzall blade with a diamond grit rather than teeth. That way, it abrades the metal rather than really cutting it--same approach that angle grinders take. It'll be cheaper to buy a top-of-the-line abrasive blade than an angle grinder, so I would do that, especially seeing how you already have a nice sawzall (I have the same one and love it). I ...


The first thing is to check is that you are using the correct blade type. The one in you picture looks like it might be a wood blade, but I can't be certain. There are various qualities of metal blades, so considering the thickness, you might opt for a higher quality (more expensive) blade. Don't be surprised if you go through a few blades on this. ...

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