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1

I don't know if this will work in your situation, but I have a mobile home with very hard well water, and no room for a water softener. The water lines are plastic tubing with some brass shutoff valves. When a toilet or faucet became clogged, I would just turn off and remove the supply line to the fixture and squirt it into a bucket. If that didn't clear it, ...


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I think your largest problem is too-thick (old, perhaps?) cement... although I've never seen such a nasty glop inside any PVC (or CPVC) pipe joint of any size. Nobody seems to have asked whether you ream, as well as deburr, your pipe before glueing... but I cannot think that failure to ream would cause a problem like this. You're using real "PVC cement" ...


2

There are two main factors that determine what is used: Code requirements (as well as the project's specifications) Cost ABS and PVC are the cheapest, however there can be limitations with their use in larger buildings due to fire code requirements. Where fire codes requirements limit the use of plastics, either cast-iron or DWV copper is used for the ...


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For drainage, you can use a mechanical gear type coupling such as a fernco coupling: You can slide it over the pipe you're installing, and then once the pipe is in place, slide it back over the joint and tighten the gear clamps.


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I think new sink drainpipes are almost all PVC. I recently replaced a corroded metal kitchen sink pipe with PVC, but in the store I noticed that metal downpipes are still available. In theory PVC should be more resistant to chemicals and rust while metal is more resistant to heat. But most drain cleaners don't contain lye any more and nobody in their ...



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