Tag Info

New answers tagged

1

Please know that these kinds of brushes throw spatter everywhere. If you've just poured Drano down the drain and then hit it with a bottle brush, you'll be throwing tiny drops of corrosive, eye-damaging liquid around the bathroom. It's not pleasant, but the most effective solution I've always found is just to remove the trap. It's usually one or two ...


0

Tighten the joint slightly. Pipe threads are tapered - the PTFE thread tape (or pipe dope - I'm currently more of a fan of PTFE pipe dope than of PTFE thread tape, though I used to be a big fan of the tape as opposed to old-style dope) provides a seal for the "helical leak path" (the fact that the female threads are a bit sharper than the top of the male ...


2

I know this is an old question, but this is a common issue: find a water plastic pipe into the wall, either to work on the pipe or to avoid punching it. In my case I was able to locate such pipes more than once using the sound of the water running through them as a guide. there are many ways to do that. Just let the water run through the pipe and use a ...


0

They do connect. You have to get the right pieces to make them fit. I would cut out pipe by wall, I would put a trap under drain pipe, you will need to extend the black pipe with female/female and pipe so that the trap exits at same level as your exit by wall, then add a right angle on top of trap, pipe two wall, and fit it together with female/female.


1

While they are not the most correct way to alleviate your problem, check your favorite home center/big box store for a "flexible tail piece extension". The ideal method would be to remove and realign your current drain. While the flexible drains work they are more prone to clogging due to the accordion like walls of the pipe.


0

If they are heating pipes just box them in. You shouldn't have any issues with condensation. Just be careful not to nail/screw through them.


0

Schedule 40 all the way. Is there a fitting to to connect the house 3" PVC to the distribution box hole? Since it has a tapered concave opening that starts at 6" and reduces to 4" (?). Also, in agreement that this is no place to spare the change, are you recommending a 4" T connection for later practical purposes?


2

Mitre-box is definitely the way to go - but I'll offer another alternative that I use with a power mitre saw when I need to match angles on irregular stock. Set a stop block with the other angle, and then just rotate the pipe until the cut angle is flush with the stop:


2

I think the answer in both cases is a handsaw in a mitrebox. For 200mm pipe, that's probably going to be a home-made mitrebox with 250mm tall sides and 200-202 mm between the sides. The simplest solution to the second problem for relatively short segments is to make the box long enough to cut both angles without moving the pipe, and clamp it in place - ...


2

List of issues: Getting the space conditioned. This may be really easy or insanely difficult. Depends on what is on the other walls of bathroom and where your ducts are in your house. Getting electric. Should be no big deal. Getting water. Might be a bigger deal than electric but probably not a huge thing. Getting exit plumbing. Given that the ...


0

Generally speaking building anything on top of garage isn't be idea in the world, but I'm guessing that you are in need and it's not because you have nothing better to do, it can be done, and if you ask me it is not more complicated than doing it anywhere else. First and the most important thing: WATER PROOFING and THERMAL INSULATION. You should have two ...


0

I would recommend using a 316Ti Stainless Steel Flexible Chimney Liner for your wood stove. I believe the chimney socket you refereed to is a thimble. The flex liners are generally sold as kits and the connection you would want to use is a Tee connection. The tee connection is comprised of two parts to make the connection through the thimble or socket. You ...



Top 50 recent answers are included