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For half inch, the fitting itself takes a 3/4 wrench in the middle, and the tube takes a 5/8 wrench. I used a monkey wrench on the fitting, and a 5/8 wrench pushing on the plastic tool. I could have skipped the tool and used that wrench to push the release ring. I could do this by hand but with this set-up I could squeeze the two wrenches firmly together ...


Copper piping has been around for at least 60 years and the only time you get pinholes in copper is because you probably used the wrong thickness of copper. If a solder joint is properly soldered then it will never leak. Ive been working on domestic hot water systems of every size for over 40 years and have never had any build up of any kind on the inside of ...


If you have an air compressor you can plumb in a connector for an air line after the shuttoff valve for the line. Then leave the faucet open at the end of the line and connect the air compressor with a pressurized tank. This will blow out the line and prevent freezing. Good luck!


If you are concerned about freezing, then the simplest answer is to install a ball valve inside the house, where it is insulated, so that you can shut off and drain the water before it exist the house. As for connecting to the sillcock, 1" pex is a slightly unusual size; Most sillcocks are 3/4 inch but 1/2 inch sillcocks are also fairly common, so ...


I doubt you need the second 90 (#3) - PEX is bendable at large radius, and if you work with that, you avoid fittings that may have freeze damage (PEX itself does not mind freezing.) If you think of it as if it was rigid pipe, you end up with a lot of fittings. If you work with its strengths, you can avoid many of those fittings, but you don't get tidy ...


yes you do. even if you drain it, its going to get water lying in low spots. that will rupture the line if it freezes. just make sure you slope it 1" in 4 ft to where you are going to drain it. that way it will have no water in it come freeze up. you can just mount it with stood off pex clamps

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