Hot answers tagged

4

Ants are constantly seeking food and water to maintain the colony. When an ant locates either in your house it lays down a scent trail with pheromes that the rest of the worker ants use as a freeway into your home. The ideal way to ensure they never invade your home again is to wipe out the Queen and the worker ants. This is accomplished by tracing the ant ...


3

I have always had good luck with boric acid powder, it's hard to beat. It's very inexpensive, sold under various names, sometimes as a roach killer, but it kills most bugs. It's another thing that kills the whole colony if it's tracked back to the nest. It's odor free. It lasts a long time where you sprinkle it. You can apply the powder on the ...


3

You've taken some good precautionary steps to eradicate the vermin from your house. But I'd like to suggest and comment on some of the tasks. The first job you should accomplish is to stop the rodent's point of entry. This can be done by walking the exterior perimeter of your house. Points of entry include: conduit penetrating the wall, air vents with holes ...


2

Do Not use foggers or sprays, you will spread them to every room in the house. These products will provide limited control, not pest elimination. Today's pest control industry has developed terrific baits for the German Cockroach as well as other roaches. The best over the counter roach bait that I recommend to people is Combat Roach Gel. It will cost you ...


2

In terms of what can be damaged, let's hope the bed bugs, for starters... ;-) 125 F is pretty warm, but it does fall short of, say, actual food cooking temperatures. That's a painfully sunny summer afternoon in Phoenix or Death Valley, but it isn't Dante's Inferno. I can't imagine it harming cereal (unless it was also humid). But I couldn't vouch for ...


2

To supplement the other answers that recommend a one-way pest exit door based on the comments that the current hole size and location will not accommodate such a door: You can always patch the current hole, create a new one for the door (preferably in an inconspicuous location if possible), and then either remove and patch up the new hole after you are sure ...


2

There's probably a few air bricks behind your kitchen units. Nail bit of fine mesh over them outside.


1

Find where they are coming from: follow the slimy tracks to whatever holes they are slipping through. Stop them from entering: seal up the holes. Prevent re-occurrence: keep all holes sealed; use snail/slug killer in outdoor planters adjacent to doors, windows, and holes.


1

There are two solutions that should be easier and cheaper than cement or mortar. Cement could certainly work, if you can get it to stay in place while it dries. Get some steel wool, which mice won't chew through, and a can of spray foam such as Great Stuff (there's even a pest repellent version of it available at Home Depot). Stuff steel wool around the ...


1

If an area rodents can infiltrate is considered subject to physical damage, then cables run inside finished walls, between joists in attics, etc. would certainly have to be considered to be subject to physical damage. Everything is subject to physical damage in the strictest sense. In context, it's clear the code means subject to physical damage in the ...


1

If you run the cable through a cage full of rats, then yes. Other than that, it's going to be up to the Authority Having Jurisdiction to make the call. They have a better understanding of the local conditions, and can make a more informed decision.


1

You may be able to find a UF cable that has a rodent repellent in it, but it's certainly not standard. I have never seen it advertised on UF product packaging. I have heard that some datacom / telecom cables that claim to have a rodent repellent jacket, and I have seen those same cables chewed to bits by some varmint that didn't mind the flavor. If you ...


1

You will need to install a one way pest door at the entrance they are using. Here is an example of one I found on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/Tomahawk-Excluder-One-Way-Door/dp/B00B9JVD7K


1

Usually the way this is handled is by installing one-way doors so that the squirrel can exit but not re-enter. They will exit throughout the day to obtain food, the exception being very young babies. I think at this time of year it is unlikely to have young babies in there, so you are probably safe (humane?) to use the one-way door and just wait for them ...


1

No you shouldn't. If you put animal bait there, a stray rodent might find its way in there and perhaps die, which would cause a stinky problem after a few days. If you did a sufficient job sealing up the area with spray foam, the problem shouldn't come back!


1

I must agree that the question is largely unanswerable. However, your problem now is no longer "where" are they entering. Squirrels are very determined little critters. So, now that they have decided your home is theirs, your greater concern is changing their minds. There are three options: Find where you think the most likely entry point is and set up a ...


1

Bayer make a terrific product called Top Choice. It is a one time application for year long Fire Ant control. It is a restricted use product so you licensed pest control professional will have to apply it if it is allowed on the label for your area. Spread rate is 84 lbs. per acre and may run around $300.00 an acre. Rate is 2 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. Re-Entry ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible